Brake bleeding help.

[Yellow Horse]

I put a CFM like lock kit on my 2010 this weekend. There kit mounts on the frame rail in the tire well and connects to the steel line using their own line from the valve to the caliper. You have a valve on each front wheel. Not much fluid leaked out while I bolted on the solenoids and swapped out the lines. I used a hand vavuum pump and sucked almost a bottle of fluid out both calipers. My brakes are real mushy. Is there a proper procedure to bleeding?

Thanks,
Yeller

 

[GTOGreg]

I put a CFM like lock kit on my 2010 this weekend. There kit mounts on the frame rail in the tire well and connects to the steel line using their own line from the valve to the caliper. You have a valve on each front wheel. Not much fluid leaked out while I bolted on the solenoids and swapped out the lines. I used a hand vavuum pump and sucked almost a bottle of fluid out both calipers. My brakes are real mushy. Is there a proper procedure to bleeding?

Thanks,
Yeller

Did you make sure to have key in "on" position whilst bleeding? It may take several attempts to bleed. Focus on fronts especially. There's a procedure to the brembos since there are 2 bleeder screws on each caliper. It's outlined in the service manual.

 

[Yellow Horse]

I didn't have the key on. I bleed both bleeders on each caliper on the front. I don't have a service manual. I'm sure there is an order. I wonder if I have someone in the car working the pedal and I bleed them the old way if that would work?

I'll search for brake bleeding and see what I can come up with.

 

[Yellow Horse]

I did a little searching. I saw one topic on Speed Bleeders. Does anybody know what thread size the Bembo calipers have for the bleeder screws?

 

[stkjock]

I've read if you jack up the drivers front as you bleed the system it helps it get done more quickly.

 

[Goose17]

When I pulled my calipers for painting, here is how I bled mine:

Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder - the right rear, then left rear, then right front and finish with left front (closest to master cylinder). I looked online and got the idea for a self bleeder: I got a small clear Gatorade plastic bottle, drilled a hole in the top plastic lid and inserted clear plastic tubing through the hole. Put about 1/4 bottle of new brake fluid into the Gatorade bottle and then submerge the end of the tubing into the brake fluid (keeps from sucking air back up). Put the other end of the tubing on your bleeder and secure with a zip tie. Open the bleeder and keep pumping until all bubbles are out. You will have to keep adding fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder fill port. I hung out and looked under the car at the clear gatorade bottle to see when the bubbles stopped. Once it is pure brake fluid coming out of the tubing, go close the bleeder securely and hit the other bleeder on that wheel (if there is one) before moving onto the next.

This worked well for me since I didn't have help to pump and open/close the bleeder.

 

[Imatk]

I hate bleeding brakes... HATE.

One time I could not get the damn things bled no matter what I did and wound up having to take the car in and they put suction on the line.

I generally follow the same procedures as above and also use a clear bottle. Works pretty well most of the time, but it's still a major PITA.

If you have a rubber mallet it can help too. Just give the calipers a few taps to dislodge any bubbles that may be trapped.

 

[Yellow Horse]

When I pulled my calipers for painting, here is how I bled mine:

Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder - the right rear, then left rear, then right front and finish with left front (closest to master cylinder). I looked online and got the idea for a self bleeder: I got a small clear Gatorade plastic bottle, drilled a hole in the top plastic lid and inserted clear plastic tubing through the hole. Put about 1/4 bottle of new brake fluid into the Gatorade bottle and then submerge the end of the tubing into the brake fluid (keeps from sucking air back up). Put the other end of the tubing on your bleeder and secure with a zip tie. Open the bleeder and keep pumping until all bubbles are out. You will have to keep adding fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder fill port. I hung out and looked under the car at the clear gatorade bottle to see when the bubbles stopped. Once it is pure brake fluid coming out of the tubing, go close the bleeder securely and hit the other bleeder on that wheel (if there is one) before moving onto the next.

This worked well for me since I didn't have help to pump and open/close the bleeder.

Sounds like a good idea. I am having someone help me bleed them the old way tomorrow. If that doesn't work I will try your idea.

Thanks

 

[Boozshey]

I bought a hand pump and thought I would be able to do them myself. Also after a full bottle of fluid I said F it. Brought the pump back and had someone help me the old fashion way. Took about 5 minutes. I didn't even have to remove the wheels. I can fit my hand in the wheels to get it done.

 

[heatsoaked12]

Just installed line lock as well and I didn't realize there where two bleeders per caliper. only did one at first and the brakes were marsh mellow. then found out there was an inside bleeder, bled them the old fashioned way with my dad in the car,key on, and now stop better than before.

 

[evasive]

Old fashioned way and be careful when you torque the bleeder screws.

I hate the various pumps out there and speed bleeders.

 

[Yellow Horse]

I threw my vacuum pump in the garbage in my shop a few days ago. I planned on buying another but it looks like most of the better pumps have to be ordered at Advance or Autozone.

I dug out my old pump out that must be 10 years old and I pumped a lot of fluid out of each bleeder screw. I think I may have been opening the screw too much and it was sucking a lot of air into the line on the pump from the screw hole. But, I apperently did not pump it enough last weekend because I got a dead solid pedal. I think I have it.