The difference in HP between 6400 and 7300 is minuscule. When you consider the RPM drop from shifting, I'd prefer to ride that HP plateau for as long as possible.
Boss 302 Intake manifold tuned on a 5.0 already
- Thread starter Terminator_NJ
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The difference in HP between 6400 and 7300 is minuscule. When you consider the RPM drop from shifting, I'd prefer to ride that HP plateau for as long as possible.
I would agree. I am leaning toward the roush kit. Great low end torque and roush 3 yr/36k warranty at no extra charge. they cover the engine and full drivetrain as long as its installed by a ASE certified mechanic. Whereas the Ford Racing only covers 12month/12k miles only if installed by ford dealer.
http://store.roushperformance.com/LimitedWarranty.pdf
thats why i was curious as to which trans EXACTLY that the BOSS has in it in another thread on SVT.. if its the MT82 that has been modded or anything.
ehhh is it really worth the extra 1K rpm and extra stress?
:dw:
are you blind dude? the graph shows stock hp dropping off after ~6350 which is why I said shift at that point.
Uh, yeah. If you're winding the motor out that far, you're not sitting in traffic, and it's not something you do on a regular basis. The extra wear on a motor from a few trips down the strip is so small it's not worth stressing over. If you're going to abuse the motor, then abuse it, don't hold back, get the times you want. Because you can't do it tomorrow.
tell that to guys who did that with nitrious and other forms of f/i hahaha and then put a nice sized window in their block. im not hating but ill let someone else be the crash dummy in this haha
Hey now, we're talking N/A here haha. I really have few qualms with revving the piss out of this motor. The variable cams allow for controlled valve float and everything.
are you talking about the stock dyno run or the boss 302 intake run? if the intake run, did you just not read that article at all? your leaving time on the table by not pulling into the 7s.
if your talking about the boss intake run, then take a look at this...
Anderson Ford Motorsports Three Valve Cams Dyno Test Photo 18
...the dyno graph is pretty close to this 5.0l graph actually, with the HP leveling off at 6500ish and continuing to 7500ish. now read these two captions...
Anderson Ford Motorsports Three Valve Cams Retest Photo 19
Anderson Ford Motorsports Three Valve Cams Burn Out Photo 22
...they dropped 2 tenths and gained 2MPH by shifting 300RPM later.
and if you were talking about the stock dyno run, then just ignore that last section:lol1:
err, this thread is about the boss 302 intake - right? thus, aren't we talking about the dyno run with the boss 302 intake + tune? the one that's making 424HP @ 7250
the power from further tuning will add to its power. i suspect tune/manifold is worth 10rwhp. revving to 7400/7500 and NEVER falling out of the powerband= a lot of wins on the street.
this car reminds me of a easier engineered e46 m3 but with more tq.... but is great up top
i see what your saying but there is different variables, 3v vs 4v....
Im gonna run a Boss intake on my coyote fox body project with a 100 shot. Got the fox ready for the swap just waiting for some unlucky soul to wreck there 2011. I know this sounds like a heart patient waiting for a guy to fall of his crotch rocket, but it is what it is!
Actually, depending on gearing you actually want to shift about 500-700 rpm after peak hp so that you average power is higher. If you shift at peak power you don't acheive maximum average power, which is what helps you go quicker.
Based on the closer ration gearing of the MT82, shifting somewhere in the 6800 rpm range is probably optimal on a stock car.
This will of coarse change in every gear based on it's relative drop to the next gear, but 5% past peak is a good number to shoot for.
Based on the closer ration gearing of the MT82, shifting somewhere in the 6800 rpm range is probably optimal on a stock car.
This will of coarse change in every gear based on it's relative drop to the next gear, but 5% past peak is a good number to shoot for.
The car will be quickest if you shift anywhere from 300-600 PAST your power peak.
You must take into account where the RPM drops to after the shift.
It takes a long time to climb back out of the basement.
You must take into account where the RPM drops to after the shift.
It takes a long time to climb back out of the basement.
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I've been converted. The Boss 302 Manifold is in transit to my door. As well as the carbon fiber JLT intake. I may or may not go forced induction now.
I have no real mission to build a 10 sec drag car. If i can get to mid 11 sec with street drags and only naturally aspirated with simple bolt on an tune, this is the route i may take.
Many shop cars with intake, x pipe and tune are into the high 11s with street drag radials. I think the addition of the manifolds/intake/tuning/1 piece driveshaft/good tires will produce a high to mid 11 sec 5.0. And if down the road I have to upgrade to a blower, Vortech will be there.
And who can argue with an engine bay that looks like...
I have no real mission to build a 10 sec drag car. If i can get to mid 11 sec with street drags and only naturally aspirated with simple bolt on an tune, this is the route i may take.
Many shop cars with intake, x pipe and tune are into the high 11s with street drag radials. I think the addition of the manifolds/intake/tuning/1 piece driveshaft/good tires will produce a high to mid 11 sec 5.0. And if down the road I have to upgrade to a blower, Vortech will be there.
And who can argue with an engine bay that looks like...
looks like if you don't shift past 6500 you will not gain ET,,,7500 you can go a bit faster,,I am not yet convinced ....
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