Boost A Pump Help

[BMF42]

I just got my Boost A Pump and the installation is coming okay, but I have a few questions.

There is a little hose that is suppose to go to a vacuum switch. Where the hell does this get plugged into??? Everything else is pretty straight forward.

If you have a BAP where did you install it?

Before you ask, I did search and could not find any info. Sorry if this has been covered before. :beer: Thanks in advance for and advice and info you offer.


Alepper:

 

[cobra4v]

If you are talking about the sensor/switch with 2 wires connected to it, that is the sensor unit that increase the voltage to the f/p....it is boost sensitive. The vaccum hose should hook up to a port on the intake manifold that can measure boost. I located my bap in the trunk left back corner near the inertia switch.

 

[BMF42]

If you are talking about the sensor/switch with 2 wires connected to it, that is the sensor unit that increase the voltage to the f/p....it is boost sensitive. The vaccum hose should hook up to a port on the intake manifold that can measure boost.

Thats what I am talking about. Would you happen to have a pic of it hooked up to the port on the intake manifold. I just really want to finish this install. Thanks for the info though. :banana:

 

[Toasty]

Sorry to hijack, but whats the benefit of a BAP over say a 255lph walbro for ~450-ish HP applications?

 

[cobra4v]

Thats what I am talking about. Would you happen to have a pic of it hooked up to the port on the intake manifold. I just really want to finish this install. Thanks for the info though. :banana:

I have no pics of the set-up, decided to ditch the bap and installed a bigger f/p. I installed the boost gauge and switch/sensor on one of the vacuum ports of the intake after the t/b...I hope that helps. If I were you I would get a bigger f/p.

 

[mwolson]

It is called a Hobbes switch. It closes when boost hits about 2.5#. This is not a great picture, but it shows mine near the passenger side spark plug cover.

http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/IAT-IMRC/P1150016.JPG

I normally keep it under the spark plug wires next to the alternator. It's a high res picture so if you click on it you can zoom in to see it pretty clearly. If you look closely, you can see the brass T right at the boost port on the passenger side front of the upper KB manifold. The 1" bit of vacuum hose goes down to the hidden boost port fitting that you can't see in this picture. The vacuum hose running towards the driver's side runs into the cabin for the Autometer Phantom mechanical boost gauge. There is a black plastic T right next to the brass T. There is a 1" bit of hose to the Hobbes switch on one side of that T and the other side goes to the fuel pressure regulator index port. This setup assumes you have gone to larger injectors and have gotten rid of the KB FMB unit.

Here is a picture of the boost port fitting:

http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/IAT-IMRC/P1160027.JPG

BTW, I was having nasty problems with my BAP and fuel pump circuit about a year ago. I suspected that I had a wear related intermittent short in the Hobbes switch cables, so I wound up just jumpering across it at the BAP so the BAP would be on all the time. I am now having BAP-related problems and am in the middle of debugging them. Many say you can leave the BAP on all the tiime, no problem. Some are suggesting that leaving the BAP on all the time may have caused it to fail. But if, so, it is not a catastrophic failure so I continue to debug...

Edit: Sorry, just noticed you are NA. You should probably put a T somewhere in the vacuum line going to your fuel pressure regulator. Your Hobbes switch will be vacuum controlled, not boost controlled.

 

[BMF42]

Sorry to hijack, but whats the benefit of a BAP over say a 255lph walbro for ~450-ish HP applications?

I don't really know, but I got the BAP for a decent price and really want it to work. I really wanted it to help me out with my Nitrous set up.

I had searched alot before I got it, and a walbro isn't a bad idea (I actually have a walbro sitting in the garage I'm just being a Biatch about :xpl:dropping the tank. I read it can be a pain!). Again I got a decent price on the BAP, I'm not trying to say its a better way of improving your fuel system. Everyone puts larger fuel pumps, and thats prolly for good reason.

Al

 

[BMF42]

Edit: Sorry, just noticed you are NA. You should probably put a T somewhere in the vacuum line going to your fuel pressure regulator. Your Hobbes switch will be vacuum controlled, not boost controlled.

Can you explain this a little more. Do I need to cut into my fuel pressure regulator??

 

[cobra4v]

It is called a Hobbes switch. It closes when boost hits about 2.5#. ...

Edit: Sorry, just noticed you are NA. You should probably put a T somewhere in the vacuum line going to your fuel pressure regulator. Your Hobbes switch will be vacuum controlled, not boost controlled.

Wouldn't the Hobbs switch not activate the bap if it is only vacuum? I thought these unit only work on cars that has a s/c or turbo that genarates boost. I'm not 100% sure so please correct me if I am wrong.

 

[BMF42]

Wouldn't the Hobbs switch not activate the bap if it is only vacuum? I thought these unit only work on cars that has a s/c or turbo that genarates boost. I'm not 100% sure so please correct me if I am wrong.

Not sure either but when I called to get some info they said "yeah this is perfect for sc, turbo, or nitrous". Oh well I'll wait till someone chimes in.

 

[mwolson]

From KB's web site: "Activated by boost switch (supercharged, turbocharged) or vacuum switch (naturally aspirated)."

http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm