You should have got an IS350 instead of 250... night and day difference between the two cars... and I owned both.
Bmw maintenance cost question
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You should have got an IS350 instead of 250... night and day difference between the two cars... and I owned both.
When you leave the 2000+ cars and go farther back, they get more and more simplistic and rock solid. The M30 in my 745i is known to go 500k miles without having to be opened up, and they used the M30 into the mid 90's. The car itself has a lot less shit to break compared to a newer one. Car is 29 years old and just about everything from the onboard computer, to the power sunroof, power headrests, and power antenna still works.
I think a lot of second hand BMW's are piles because as the resale drops, people who can't afford to maintain them, buy them, and they get worse and worse as they get older and older.
also
J.D. Power and Associates
I think a lot of second hand BMW's are piles because as the resale drops, people who can't afford to maintain them, buy them, and they get worse and worse as they get older and older.
also
J.D. Power and Associates
I had a '91 535i. Great car, but that M30 sucks gas worse than a v8 lol.
I drive a '13 328i with XDrive as my daily driver. This car has been great...no real issues at all and drives great in winter with the AWD. 2nd BMW for me.
I know quite a few owners with older BMW's and with no abnormal issues. I find that leasing a new BMW for no more than 42 months if you drive less than 15k miles per year is the way to go when your new car has the maintenance and car wash packages.
When compared to a domestic car, one must either buy or lease the car for at least 5 years due to the residual value computation to be competitive on monthly payment....and it depends on MSRP.
However, domestic car residual values are starting to creep upwards to make them competitive and they are just now tinkering with maintenance packages.
I know quite a few owners with older BMW's and with no abnormal issues. I find that leasing a new BMW for no more than 42 months if you drive less than 15k miles per year is the way to go when your new car has the maintenance and car wash packages.
When compared to a domestic car, one must either buy or lease the car for at least 5 years due to the residual value computation to be competitive on monthly payment....and it depends on MSRP.
However, domestic car residual values are starting to creep upwards to make them competitive and they are just now tinkering with maintenance packages.
I got 22mpg coming back from maryland and that was going in and out of boost plenty of times. I'm hoping when I swap in a set of brand new injectors that I'll pick up 1-2mpg.
With no maintenance and free oil changes, I'm sure she does.
I actually have a 2005 745 parked somewhere which has been out of warranty for quite some time. it has 150k miles on it and i actually did have some issues with it which were all hashed out $6k later. I dont think is really that bad considering the age and mileage. The car now drives and runs like it did on day one. I'm sure i can get another 150k miles out of it without any major issues. Electronics or not, BMW make quality cars which last, but more importantly age MUCH better than most. I've owned numerous Mercedes, BMWs, Lexus ect. They have been delightful to own and some have caused issues sure, but no different than the fords, chevys, hondas, nissans ect.
Would i own one without a warranty? sure, why not.
Do i think the average person should try and stay under a warranty? Yes, because repairs can be expensive and the average person will bitch and moan without realizing what they have in their hands.
They are great when new and under warranty. Just be sure to sell it before the warranty expires. That's what most BMW owners do.
U.M.
U.M.
+1.. notice if you look in the autotrader, there are ALOT of BMW's and Mercs for sale with 4x000 miles.
That is due mostly to the cars being leased or ppl who by these types or cars are into having " the next thing" you can say the same thing about any car of that type. Mustang, camaro guys normally build and keep the car for a while the euro car buyers what to be in a new car with the updated luxuries. It is less about reliability than you think.
Most ppl who feel the way you do are arm chair opinions. If you had one and can say you dumbed thousands to fix it and keep it running then you can have this opinion you do but but as a person who has actually owned one(BMW and MB) I fan say your opinion is 100% false. The truth is the brakes on a M3 will be more than on a mustang/camaro ...as well as other parts will be more expensive but not the figures the arm chair ppl insinuate it is
Haven't owned one.. so you have me there. But like I mentioned above, I did a good bit of research and BMW forum searching when I was looking for a 650i Vert. So based on my research, I decided that I would not have a 6 series out of warranty. At the time(2010), I was looking for a 2008-2009 model. I even looked at a few M6's, but found out maintenance was outrageous on those.
If you're not going to be turning your own wrenches and diagnosing you're own problems then the costs of maintenance are extremely high. I believe the saying is that if you can't afford a BMW/Merc new then you damn sure can't afford one used is true.
However, you can save a literal TON of money by doing things yourself on your vehicles. If you don't have the tools often buying the parts, and the tools you will still come out cheaper than paying someone else to do the job. (Thank you Harbor Freight)
However, you can save a literal TON of money by doing things yourself on your vehicles. If you don't have the tools often buying the parts, and the tools you will still come out cheaper than paying someone else to do the job. (Thank you Harbor Freight)
I have what some considered one of the more reliable M's, a '00 M Roadster (E36/7) . It's basically all the goodies from a e36 M3(S52) shoved into a Z3. I found a nice one that was owned by an older couple and was in great shape.
In the past two years I've spent nearly 5k on replacement parts, and have driven my 82 F-100 most of the time. Aside from the welding I did everything myself.
Everything from replacing the rear socks and the shock mounts that failed, to replacing nearly the entire cooling system, expansion tanks, thermostat and housing, as well as a new waterpump with a metal impeller. Radiator looked really good so I reused it and thought I won a little victory in my constant battles.
I Had a throwout bearing go bad in September of '12 which resulted in a new clutch, dual-mass flywheel (about $1k by itself) , new transmission input shaft cover, master and slave clutch cylinders, as well as new hydraulic lines with the cdv delete. Also a new guibo for the 3 piece driveshaft. New rear window, New bushings in the seats. And I've suffered the "sub frame" failure that was common in e36 an 46s where the differental mounts and the trunk floor pull each other apart, blowing spotwelds in the trunk (especialy the drivers side) before complete failure. I had a body shop realign the pieces and fix the failed welds and swap the differential mount to a dual ear as well as reinforce the area using an aftermarket kit. I'm not including the 7qt oil changes, or the cosmetic issues like replacing the roundel emblems that peeled apart, or tires. Or the rebuilt rear view mirror that cost 100 to fix. (Uses a sensor to darken the mirror using an lcd just like the lcd in a calculator), it started leaking, leaving it bright at the top and dark at the bottom.
Yesterday I noticed a bit of coolant on the floor, and when inspecting the coolant lines the fitting on the radiator you attach overflow intake hose to broke off, spraying warm coolant right into my eye. After I took care of my injuries I found that piece is part of the radiator itself and to fix requires a new $250 radiator, that is partially made of plastic. Apparently most people replace their radiators, water pumps, and essentially the entire cooling system at the same time and at only 60k miles... I did everything but the radiator...till now.
I've never considered radiators or water pumps consumables, but it is apparently the norm on BMW :'(
When it runs its fun, but it really makes me miss my Lightning, even when it cost over $100 for a tank of gas. The only original parts that were replaced due to failure during those 9 years were the battery (7 years) and the crappy Goodyear F1s. Once finances allow it, the BMW is getting replaced by a 5.0.
In the past two years I've spent nearly 5k on replacement parts, and have driven my 82 F-100 most of the time. Aside from the welding I did everything myself.
Everything from replacing the rear socks and the shock mounts that failed, to replacing nearly the entire cooling system, expansion tanks, thermostat and housing, as well as a new waterpump with a metal impeller. Radiator looked really good so I reused it and thought I won a little victory in my constant battles.
I Had a throwout bearing go bad in September of '12 which resulted in a new clutch, dual-mass flywheel (about $1k by itself) , new transmission input shaft cover, master and slave clutch cylinders, as well as new hydraulic lines with the cdv delete. Also a new guibo for the 3 piece driveshaft. New rear window, New bushings in the seats. And I've suffered the "sub frame" failure that was common in e36 an 46s where the differental mounts and the trunk floor pull each other apart, blowing spotwelds in the trunk (especialy the drivers side) before complete failure. I had a body shop realign the pieces and fix the failed welds and swap the differential mount to a dual ear as well as reinforce the area using an aftermarket kit. I'm not including the 7qt oil changes, or the cosmetic issues like replacing the roundel emblems that peeled apart, or tires. Or the rebuilt rear view mirror that cost 100 to fix. (Uses a sensor to darken the mirror using an lcd just like the lcd in a calculator), it started leaking, leaving it bright at the top and dark at the bottom.
Yesterday I noticed a bit of coolant on the floor, and when inspecting the coolant lines the fitting on the radiator you attach overflow intake hose to broke off, spraying warm coolant right into my eye. After I took care of my injuries I found that piece is part of the radiator itself and to fix requires a new $250 radiator, that is partially made of plastic. Apparently most people replace their radiators, water pumps, and essentially the entire cooling system at the same time and at only 60k miles... I did everything but the radiator...till now.
I've never considered radiators or water pumps consumables, but it is apparently the norm on BMW :'(
When it runs its fun, but it really makes me miss my Lightning, even when it cost over $100 for a tank of gas. The only original parts that were replaced due to failure during those 9 years were the battery (7 years) and the crappy Goodyear F1s. Once finances allow it, the BMW is getting replaced by a 5.0.
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Ouch.. definitely have to love the car to spend that kind of money on it instead of getting rid of it. You pretty much have a brand new car by now. :lol1:
Been through three
07 335i
08 335xi
11 335xi
Only the 08 had any problems and it was some sort of electrical gremlin. Never could get it ironed out. The other two were more reliable than any other car we owned. I will say that BMWs X drive does exceptionally well in the snow.
07 335i
08 335xi
11 335xi
Only the 08 had any problems and it was some sort of electrical gremlin. Never could get it ironed out. The other two were more reliable than any other car we owned. I will say that BMWs X drive does exceptionally well in the snow.
I like it, like a gocart with leather seats, but when it broke down it's worth alot less, so I have to fix it.
If I had the money to afford payments it'd be gone tomorrow.
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