If i only cracked open the rear brake lines, does that mean i only have to bleed the rear brakes, or do i still have to do the whole system? Thanks -Dan
Six locations to bleed. One at each wheel, two on the master cylinder. No bleeders on the ABS unit. When flushing, you shouldn't need to bleed the master cylinder. And if you start counting how many times you can open/bleed/close the bleeders w/o running the master cylinder dry, remember that the count is different (less) on the fronts (from experience).
what would the process be to flush all the old fluid out of the system? i would love to to this sometime soon. i know how to bleed the brakes when i do pads and such, but to cycle all the fluid out of the system has sort of stumped me.
Well I let my master cylinder go dry once a while ago and the brakes have never felt the same since . How do i bleed the master cylinder? Hit the brake or do i need a hand pump? Also, which one of the bleeders on the master cylinder do i do first? Thanks :beer:
You just keep bleeding until the brake fluid is clear/clean. My old brake fluid had a green hue so it was rather easy to tell when it was clean.
I always do the front bleeder first, but I'm not sure that's the best way. For the master cylinder, I use the traditional "hit the brake" method. I hope your ABS system stays functional. When I accidentally let my master cylinder go dry, that started my ABS saga. Lots of time and brake fluid later, I ended up having to put another HCU/ECU assembly in it to get it to work again. Maybe the HCU/ECU was going to go bad anyway???
Start with bleeding the corner furthest from the MC (passenger side rear, then driver's side rear, then passenger's side front, then driver's side front).