If i only cracked open the rear brake lines, does that mean i only have to bleed the rear brakes, or do i still have to do the whole system? Thanks -Dan
Bleeding brakes question...
- Thread starter wals9331
- Start date
just the line you opened up would need to be bleed.
Depends, How long was the system open?
If long enough the air will work its way up to the highest point.
I always bleed the whole system. If it has been a while it's a good idea to get fresh fluid to all 4 corners.
If long enough the air will work its way up to the highest point.
I always bleed the whole system. If it has been a while it's a good idea to get fresh fluid to all 4 corners.
It was only open for about 2 mins before i reattached it. My brakes do still feel mushy though....but they did even before i did this job. I think i might have air somewhere else in the line. Is there more bleeder valves? Maybe one on the abs module? Everytime i take corners really hard and break my brakes dont feel quite right....
Bleed the entire system. You dont want to say later on "I shoulda bleed everything while I was under there" Plus it'll harden up the brake pedal and give you full brakeing power
Six locations to bleed. One at each wheel, two on the master cylinder. No bleeders on the ABS unit. When flushing, you shouldn't need to bleed the master cylinder. And if you start counting how many times you can open/bleed/close the bleeders w/o running the master cylinder dry, remember that the count is different (less) on the fronts (from experience).
what would the process be to flush all the old fluid out of the system? i would love to to this sometime soon. i know how to bleed the brakes when i do pads and such, but to cycle all the fluid out of the system has sort of stumped me.
Well I let my master cylinder go dry once a while ago and the brakes have never felt the same since
. How do i bleed the master cylinder? Hit the brake or do i need a hand pump? Also, which one of the bleeders on the master cylinder do i do first? Thanks :beer:If I remember right the one closest to the firewall goes first. Hand pump is OK. But if you have a friend that could help I would use them.
You just keep bleeding until the brake fluid is clear/clean. My old brake fluid had a green hue so it was rather easy to tell when it was clean.
Well I let my master cylinder go dry once a while ago and the brakes have never felt the same since
I always do the front bleeder first, but I'm not sure that's the best way. For the master cylinder, I use the traditional "hit the brake" method. I hope your ABS system stays functional. When I accidentally let my master cylinder go dry, that started my ABS saga. Lots of time and brake fluid later, I ended up having to put another HCU/ECU assembly in it to get it to work again. Maybe the HCU/ECU was going to go bad anyway???
I let my master cylinder go dry....5 years ago, so I am hoping it is ok
. I'll get my GF to help me with this again with finishing this job then. I am so pumped to get this thing finished. :rockon:
Start with bleeding the corner furthest from the MC (passenger side rear, then driver's side rear, then passenger's side front, then driver's side front).
When bleeding, have someone pump the brakes 4-5 times and holding the pedal down on the last pump while someone else opens the bleeder and then the pedal should go to the floor. While the pedal is held to the floor, close the bleeder and have them pump the brakes again. Do this 4-5 times at each corner for a full flush.
When bleeding, have someone pump the brakes 4-5 times and holding the pedal down on the last pump while someone else opens the bleeder and then the pedal should go to the floor. While the pedal is held to the floor, close the bleeder and have them pump the brakes again. Do this 4-5 times at each corner for a full flush.
Traditionally, the passenger side rear has the longest brake line from the MC. I've been wondering if, due to the location of the HCU/ECU assy, the order should be different on our cars. I would think that the left rear has the longest set of brake lines now. Left/right probably doesn't matter that much -- moot point?
I did the right rear first then left on my 97 Cobra. I'm looking to replace my pads in the rear this weekend and will be changing out my fluid as well.
I created a nifty tool that helps speed up the process by using the car's vacuum a while ago. I'll take pics of the new one that I create.
I created a nifty tool that helps speed up the process by using the car's vacuum a while ago. I'll take pics of the new one that I create.
I can hear what sounds like air bubbles in my abs module when i hit the break....and yes i already bled them...
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to get air out of the ABS module you need a scan tool to enable the ABS. if you dont have access to one the other way would be to drive the car and slam on the brakes to get the ABS to work(works best on wet roads or a road with gravel). this should get the air out of the module then bleed all 4 corners again.
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