Bleeding brakes PLEASE HELP!!

[03_SVT_COBRA]

i just installed baer 6 piston brakes on the front, there great and it stoped verry well! but ive bled the brakes about 10 times and I cant get the pedal to feel hard like it was with the stock brakes on, i know theres air in the system some where becuase when i pump it it gets real hard like normal.. has any one had this problem before? should i bleed the master?

Thanks!

 

[wjurls]

You sure it's air in the system and not something else? If air is your problem pumping the brakes won't make the pedal hard (enter juvenile joke of choice here). It will always be spongy. If your pedal goes to the floor and can then be pumped back up you may have a problem with your master cylinder. Another cause could be excessive piston knockback. Knockback is cause by out of round rotors that while the brakes are disengaged knock the caliper pistons back into their bores a little more than normal. When that happens it takes a pump or two of the pedal to start clamping again. To bleed properly always start with the caliper furthest from the master and work your way in and bleed untill no more air comes out. Move on to the next closest and so on. It may be neccesary to repeat on all four calipers. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master. If it gets too low you will re-inject air to the system and have to start all over again. If after that you still suspect air you may need to remove the master and bench bleed it. Another option is to use a power bleeder to keep a steady supply of pressurized brake fluid flowing through the system. Good luck and keep this thread updated.

 

[03_SVT_COBRA]

well see thats the thing? i thought that too... but ive bled the brakes over and over again and no air what so ever comes out.. but the pedal seems too low to me... i forgot to say that i did change the flex lines as well.. what about the bleeder screws on the master? do i have to take it off and bench bleed it? or can i just use these?

 

[snowborderus]

Well, where to start. Going from a 2 piston setup to a 6 piston. 6>2 = more fluid needed to move the pistons. So yea, it might be a bit softer than stock. As for the "piston knockback", no. Rotors being warped isn't going to cause anything like that. It would take a bad wheel bearing to do anything like that. It's still possible you have air in the lines since you changed out the brake lines. Changing them out can make it a bitch to get them clear.

What is your process for bleeding?

 

[03_SVT_COBRA]

the proper way.. you know i am a licenced mechanic.. I just dont understand where the air is? kinda driving me crazy!

 

[mu22stang]

...What is your process for bleeding?

the proper way.. you know i am a licenced mechanic...

Congratulations on your perfect yet undisclosed bleeding procedure and your license, but don't you think an outline of this "proper" procedure would help diagnose the problem? If not, why did you post here in the first place?

Edit: BTW, you can bleed the master cylinder in the vehicle.

 

[sassafras]

Could air have gotten up into the ABS block? I don't know how much of the lines you replaced, but if that happened, you have to get the ABS pump to cycle before it will bleed.

 

[03_SVT_COBRA]

i started with the right rear, a friend pumped the pedal, then i opened the bleeder and watched the fluid come out untill there was no bubbles, and then i went to the left rear then the right front then the left front, and i did it again and again and again, making sure the master did not run dry. the only thing i did not do that the baer instructions said to do was to tap the calipers with a block of wood to free up the air bubbles if any.. Would this be the cause of my problems?

 

[03_SVT_COBRA]

Could air have gotten up into the ABS block? I don't know how much of the lines you replaced, but if that happened, you have to get the ABS pump to cycle before it will bleed.

I just replaced the flex lines with the Russell kit, all 4 of them, and i have driven it, and made the abs kick on more than once... ?

 

[03_SVT_COBRA]

Congratulations on your perfect yet undisclosed bleeding procedure and your license, but don't you think an outline of this "proper" procedure would help diagnose the problem? If not, why did you post here in the first place?

Edit: BTW, you can bleed the master cylinder in the vehicle.

you sir are verry nice... thank you. have you run into this problem? do you have a big front brake kit on your car? when you bled the master did it help? or solve the problem?

Thank you sir

 

[sprstr1000]

have you pulled the calipers off an rotated them just to try an moved some trapped air(if its in there) or take a rubber mallet an tap the calipers??
I just installed the baer 6 in my termi an my pedal doesnt feel as stiff as it did before either

 

[Powershift03]

the only thing i did not do that the baer instructions said to do was to tap the calipers with a block of wood to free up the air bubbles if any.. Would this be the cause of my problems?

I would start there, especially if they recommend that step.

 

[03_SVT_COBRA]

have you pulled the calipers off an rotated them just to try an moved some trapped air(if its in there) or take a rubber mallet an tap the calipers??
I just installed the baer 6 in my termi an my pedal doesnt feel as stiff as it did before either[/QUOT

I didnt think it would be... how ever its almost fading like... its wierd... never had this before.. some times it will be hard, other times it drops a noticeable amount... im stumped...

 

[Hkaiser83]

That's funny. I just bled my Baer 6 piston setup for a while the other night. I definitely got all the air out but the pedal felt soft. I haven't tried it again because I have too much to do with the build to worry about that too much just yet.

I was just going to rebleed yet again. Make sure that you bleed the Master cylinder, both bleeders on it.

 

[Root1022]

Bleed the master cylinder, we couldnt figure out why we couldnt get my brakes to bleed like 2 days ago. Ended up needing to be done at the MC.

 

[03_SVT_COBRA]

ok i will try the master tonight.. just open the bleeders and attach a clear tube back to the res. and pump till the bubbles are gone? then the same for the other one right?

 

[skaarew04SVT]

just did this last week. def do both ports on MC 1st, then work your way around the remaining calipers. My break pedal has never felt firmer. The MC is known to hold 80% of the air in the brake system.

 

[Root1022]

ok i will try the master tonight.. just open the bleeders and attach a clear tube back to the res. and pump till the bubbles are gone? then the same for the other one right?

Yup, we didnt use a tube we just put a rag under it, the tube would of made more sense but we had the cars on jackstands and worked on them for like 18 hours, we just wanted to be done and didnt wanna go buy tubing for it lol!

 

[mu22stang]

A lot of good info in here for you OP.

Bleeding the MC with clear tubing back into the reservoir works. Then, bleed RR, LR, inboard FR, outboard FR, inboard FL, outboard FL. If it's still mushy, especially after the ABS is triggered, you'll have to run it to the stealership. They alone can bleed the ABS module.

Good luck!

 

[03_SVT_COBRA]

thank you all for the answers! good luck to all of you and have a safe summer!