An 11:1 built 5.3 might get you there with a 2.3 being pushed to the edge. Your going to want to go to a bigger blower if your shooting for that level.
Biggest pulley combo for 2.3 Whipple
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An 11:1 built 5.3 might get you there with a 2.3 being pushed to the edge. Your going to want to go to a bigger blower if your shooting for that level.
I ve always wondered if your car is hurt, you have a heartbreaking dyno or if your tune is that bad. Id think on e85 your down close to 50 hp over where you should be. Im also surprised at your low boost levels.
My old gen 1 did 18-19 psi on a 2.8 pulley and 19-20 psi on a 2.7 pulley. This was with an off road pipe. Id think with a gen 2 whipple and stock mid pipe and that pulley you would be well over 20 psi unless you lived in the mountains.
I'll go with the bigger blower ha
Guess it's time for a compression test.
To top it off my whipple started to go bad , it's on transit to whipple now.
I didn't expect big numbers since e85 is over kill for 19 lbs. I was thinking the H pipe was the problem from the numbers but then again I can't really go all out because of California's emission laws
I've seen those kind of numbers pulled off a few times with a blower about that size. This build by Accufab, and Cliff Buerger's 2003 Cobra:
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/46909-Accufab-Built-Kenne-Bell-962-hp-03-Cobra
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUbhpJp0EBQ
I can tell you that Cliff's 2.3L runs [email protected] at 3550lbs (on gasoline), and uses a 2.8 upper / 6lb lower. It also has a massive inlet elbow and bell mouth Pro-M 117 meter.
800/850 can be done with a 2.3L and 281ci but it takes a lot of attention to detail and just as much money.
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Could this be from a whipple needing a rebuilt ?
Wow and his fuel system wasn't even all that.
I should have done my research and saved some cash lol
Accufab is local to me but there labor rate is top dollar.
I would like to get 800/850 hp and call it a day . Can that be done with 7k
For pump im staying with my 2.3. When i do a full E85 fuel stystem the 2.3 will go on the market and a 2.9 with be on the car.
I got the blower / the fuel system / t56 slightly modified / irs ready to boogie .
I mean 7 k for the build in the link you posted ? Sorry for the confusion
Not saying $7,000 isn't a lot of money, but in my opinion more than that is needed based on first hand experience with the car in the video (my brother in law's, copy of my engine).
You will want a crusher inlet kit, throttle body, and a 5" intake tube. For a MAF, we use a Pro-M 117 ($599) in part because of the very large bell mouth opening that the air filter bolts to.
The engine eats up a lot of the money. Roughly a few grand just in labor for engine block machine work, head porting, valve job, etc. The pistons, pins from Trend, ring set, bearings, gaskets, coatings, valve reliefs, etc etc. Then there are the cams, hardened washers, spacers, ARP cam bolts, etc. ARP2000 head studs. We also use ARP rod bolts and side bolts, and we use an expensive girdle on the main caps. Valvespings and retainers are aftermarket too.
The engines from above use a minimum of 1-7/8" headers. The black car and my car's engine have a $550 alternator bolted to it, and each uses a $275 adjustable tensioner from Whipple to get the very most out of the belt. These are just a few accessories that add up costs quickly.
If you are doing the assembly of the engine yourself you will need to have the tools or buy them. I have about $1000 easy just in the tools necessary to check camshaft base circle runout and to perform the measurements necessary to check lash adjuster preload, piston to valve clearance, and to time the cams. Valve seal is important there too. If you want to find extra power towards the 800/850 you are going be measuring closed seat pressure and checking valve seal 32 times. FYI - Accufab put 120 hours into their cylinder heads alone.
After you do all this you will either need your own tuning equipment or someone to tune it. You will probably want to keep a close eye on the wideband (we run two, one for each side of the engine) after the tuning session as stuff will happen.
I could write for a long time about just the engine work alone. I don't know what ever became of the Accufab engine from the article, but mine and my brother in law's engine have been through hell for five years and both are still running as strong as ever.
In short though, if you want to use a 2.3L blower and get 800/850 out of a 4.6L engine it is going to take a few unpopular little details, time, and money to make it happen.
You will want a crusher inlet kit, throttle body, and a 5" intake tube. For a MAF, we use a Pro-M 117 ($599) in part because of the very large bell mouth opening that the air filter bolts to.
The engine eats up a lot of the money. Roughly a few grand just in labor for engine block machine work, head porting, valve job, etc. The pistons, pins from Trend, ring set, bearings, gaskets, coatings, valve reliefs, etc etc. Then there are the cams, hardened washers, spacers, ARP cam bolts, etc. ARP2000 head studs. We also use ARP rod bolts and side bolts, and we use an expensive girdle on the main caps. Valvespings and retainers are aftermarket too.
The engines from above use a minimum of 1-7/8" headers. The black car and my car's engine have a $550 alternator bolted to it, and each uses a $275 adjustable tensioner from Whipple to get the very most out of the belt. These are just a few accessories that add up costs quickly.
If you are doing the assembly of the engine yourself you will need to have the tools or buy them. I have about $1000 easy just in the tools necessary to check camshaft base circle runout and to perform the measurements necessary to check lash adjuster preload, piston to valve clearance, and to time the cams. Valve seal is important there too. If you want to find extra power towards the 800/850 you are going be measuring closed seat pressure and checking valve seal 32 times. FYI - Accufab put 120 hours into their cylinder heads alone.
After you do all this you will either need your own tuning equipment or someone to tune it. You will probably want to keep a close eye on the wideband (we run two, one for each side of the engine) after the tuning session as stuff will happen.
I could write for a long time about just the engine work alone. I don't know what ever became of the Accufab engine from the article, but mine and my brother in law's engine have been through hell for five years and both are still running as strong as ever.
In short though, if you want to use a 2.3L blower and get 800/850 out of a 4.6L engine it is going to take a few unpopular little details, time, and money to make it happen.
So with that said, 650 should be lots easier!!!
Thank you
Way way easier
So if I go to a 2.75 rr pulley can I still stay on 93?? I still have stock lower, 80lb inj, twin 340 in tank, still returnless but collecting parts to go return. I'm 585rwhp and would like to safely crack 600whp
^thats what I kinda want to hear. I have a super safe tune right now, still want to be safe but would like to see 600+
How much are you boosting on your Whipple on 91 octane?
Was 14-15psi and now is about 16.5psi peak.
Just my opinion - but if I were you I would be dumping a bottle of Lucas in each tank to give it a little insurance after all the bad things I've heard about the "premium" gas you guys have out there. An extra $8 per tank isn't bad IMO. Although - can you even buy it out there? Seems I remember someone posting that some additives are banned.
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