What are you white cobra owners using? Also any recommendations on a compound to buff with before a good wax? Trying to bring the shine back out in my 95... Thanks!
Best wax for white car?
- Thread starter blakef925
- Start date
There really isn't a "best" wax, there is just the wax that works best for you. Being white, it benefits the most from preparation. Clay it to remove surface contaminants. Use a paint cleaner and a polish to fully clean the surface. That product selection will vary based on if you are working by hand or machine. With white, you can go with either a wax or sealant. A sealant will give a little more shine and better reflections. Wax will give a softer look.
If I'm just cleaning the paint prior to application, I like Klasse AIO. If I'm trying to remove swirls or imperfections, I typically use something from the Optimum line.
I've tried a number of products and Poorboy's EX-P is my favorite on my car. 2-3 layers of that and the car looks so crisp. I much prefer the look of sealants over waxes on white.
I've tried a number of products and Poorboy's EX-P is my favorite on my car. 2-3 layers of that and the car looks so crisp. I much prefer the look of sealants over waxes on white.
poorboys ex-p is awesome.
Might have to give that poorboys a try
sealants on white
Sealant and lots of prep
couple hand applied coats of #845!
I have used this exact combo(Klasse AIO or Polish and EX-P) on a few white vehicles and they all came out looking great.
Examples...
Klasse AIO topped with 2 coats of Collinite 845...
Lots of good opinions here!
One thing I would ask is if you're using a machine. If so, you can start by using clay followed by a swirl remover or a compound. If your applying by hand, I would use the clay, and then either the
Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845 , or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 . All of which are in stock and ready to ship today!
Also, here's the link to the clay and clay lube we have in stock:
Pinnacle Ultra Poly Claybar - 4 oz
Pinnacle Clay Lubricant
One thing I would ask is if you're using a machine. If so, you can start by using clay followed by a swirl remover or a compound. If your applying by hand, I would use the clay, and then either the
Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845 , or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 . All of which are in stock and ready to ship today!
Also, here's the link to the clay and clay lube we have in stock:
Pinnacle Ultra Poly Claybar - 4 oz
Pinnacle Clay Lubricant
Another vote for 845. I love the look of it, plus it's so easy to apply/remove.
Not wise to do WGDGPS by hand. Plus that products has to be applied correctly and evenly which generally is better by a machine. Allow to sit on the paint for 45-60 minutes and then keep the car in the garage for 12 hours so it can correctly cure.
Any LSP can be applied by hand if you don't have a polisher at your disposal. With all sealants and most waxes, you want to apply thin layers. Less is more certainly applies here. More product does not = better results.
for the Wolfgang Sealant, no less than 30 minutes seems to do the trick. There is nothing wrong with leaving it on for up to an hour, it actually makes the removal process a bit easier. You're definitely spot on about the curing time. 12 hours is the optimal curing time for pretty much every sealant.
Not all LSP can be applied by hand. Some are better applied by hand while some are better applied via a DA. The WGDGPS is one of those, that is better applied by a DA as its more consistant and gets it on fast enough that you can have correct timing on the whole car during removal. Also on the time of it, it even says on the directions to leave on the paint for no less than 45 minutes. Can you probably remove it after 30, yes, but for better results and less sticking of the residue, its best to leave on for 45-60 minutes.
Curing time, you missed what I meant. Some waxes/sealants you can put on, wipe off and drive to a car show. As their cure times are really low. Some though for best results need to be left out of the elements and in the best place for best curing.
I've been working for PBMA for 7 years now and testing / researching products throughout that time. I can't even tell you how much of this sealant I've worked with. It makes absolutely no difference if you apply it by hand or machine. The only instance I can see a machine being necessary in applying a sealant would be if a certain level of heat/friction is necessary for proper bonding, and that certainly does not apply in this case, or 99.9% of products on the market for that matter.
Also, 45 minutes is a VERY generous number. It's there so people don't screw up the application process. In most cases, it will cure in around 15-20 minutes, even if applied by hand.
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Matt@AG? WGDGPS is such a thick sealant that its very difficult to apply evently thin by hand. I did not say it was impossible, I just said its easier to apply via machine.
Also, cure time, 15-20 minutes might be a hot, non-humid day for it to dry quickly. In 15-20 minutes here in GA, it would still smear. Thats why the recommend time is 45 minutes. Therefore no matter the location it will have cure properly during that time.
CG's Jetseal!
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