best oil for a performance pushrod motor?

NJ2000R

Certified FORD Fanatic!
Established Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2001
Messages
2,970
Location
Northern NJ
I've asked 5 different people, and got 4 different answers....valvoline, mobil 1, royal purple (2) and castrol....

when I spoke to L&B about the motors they did for the GA 95R's (and my 93R) they said any decent brand 20-50 non-synthetic oil....just curious what everyone here runs? brand and weight....and any to avoid....
 

1993R

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2001
Messages
1,078
Location
Gainesville, Florida
I run Wal-Mart synthetic. Never had a problem I just change the oil frequently and use a good filter. The mod motors I heard need a different weight than push rods. I use 20w-50 at the track in the 93R. Maybe I'm just cheap but since I'm not a pro the extra few ponies you pick up from the real expensive synthetics are not worth the extra $$$. Plus I read a consumer reports on oils etc...My views changed after that. I run the Wal mart stuff in everything from tractors and mowers to my boat and daily driver. Go figure.
 

13 Cobra Toy

Need More Track...
Established Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2003
Messages
1,129
Location
Texas
Round two ding... ding...



MOTUL 300V 5W40 sorry 4.6/5.4

:beer:
 
Last edited:

1995COBRA-R

20 Year Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
May 7, 2003
Messages
4,319
Location
Sandy Springs, GA
NJ2000R said:
when I spoke to L&B about the motors they did for the GA 95R's (and my 93R) they said any decent brand 20-50 non-synthetic oil....just curious what everyone here runs? brand and weight....and any to avoid....
My engine builder recommended 20W50 (any good brand; mineral) for one weekend and then a switch to synthetic 15W50 Mobil 1 (early pushrod 302). After 29 race weekends (and a busted head gasket), I pulled the engine and he reported absolutely no bearing wear.

He also taught me to cut open the oil filters after each oil change to watch for metal debris. I found some in the oil filter during Sebring and stuck it in the trailer. I'm glad I checked as after the engine was pulled; he found a sleeve had moved and destroyed the rings. The metal was ring material. I'm sure the engine would have blown if I had kept running it that weekend.

I am sold on Mobil 1 but wonder if all aren't mostly the same? :shrug: I use syn. 10W30 Mobil 1 for my 94/95 cars and syn. 0W20 Mobil 1 for my mod motor truck. I buy several cases when it is on sale. I use Ford filters.
 

birdman941

Illiterate Proofreader
Established Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2005
Messages
2,710
Location
Ft. Myers, Fl
1995COBRA-R said:
My engine builder recommended 20W50 (any good brand; mineral) for one weekend and then a switch to synthetic 15W50 Mobil 1 (early pushrod 302). After 29 race weekends (and a busted head gasket), I pulled the engine and he reported absolutely no bearing wear.

He also taught me to cut open the oil filters after each oil change to watch for metal debris. I found some in the oil filter during Sebring and stuck it in the trailer. I'm glad I checked as after the engine was pulled; he found a sleeve had moved and destroyed the rings. The metal was ring material. I'm sure the engine would have blown if I had kept running it that weekend.

I am sold on Mobil 1 but wonder if all aren't mostly the same? :shrug: I use syn. 10W30 Mobil 1 for my 94/95 cars and syn. 0W20 Mobil 1 for my mod motor truck. I buy several cases when it is on sale. I use Ford filters.
That was obviously good advice.
Mobil 1 here on everything ( even the lawnmower. Trust me, it runs better!)
Change it every 3k and put the used stuff in the Toro.
Motorcraft oil filters.
 

93SVTCobra

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2001
Messages
3,460
Location
Milford, MI
If your talking BEST then this is it.....

oil.JPG
 

tomshep

Another R Addict
Established Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
4,375
Location
Republic of Texas
NJ2000R said:
I've asked 5 different people, and got 4 different answers....valvoline, mobil 1, royal purple (2) and castrol....

when I spoke to L&B about the motors they did for the GA 95R's (and my 93R) they said any decent brand 20-50 non-synthetic oil....just curious what everyone here runs? brand and weight....and any to avoid....

Ken,

My motor is apart right now for a freshening. I was initially told by TF Racing to use 10-30. So, I ran 10-30 Mobil 1 syn. I later spoke to L&B and they told me the race teams would run thinner oil to pick up a few hp. They told me our motors were clearanced to run 20-50 dino or 15-50 syn. I then went to Mobil 1 15-50. I took the motor apart due to brass in the oil when I changed it. For the life of me, I can't find any brass showing anywhere in the motor. I can tell it blew a crank in the past and all I can figure is the oil cooler wasn't fully cleaned. The bearings look fantastic with a slight polishing on the surface. I just picked up the motor from the local machine shop last night and will be putting it together over the weekend (hopefully).

When I put it together I will start it out on 20-50 dino initially then straight to 15-50 Mobil 1 syn.

BTW, in my last order of parts from Summit I bought an oil filter cutter so I can start checking my filters. Another item I am going to start doing is oil testing from Blackstone labs. They talk about that a lot over on thedieselstop.com. It is minimal in cost and they give you a breakdown of metals, fuel, etc in the oil. Cheap insurance after seeing the components in my motor.

Tom
 

BAD PNY

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2002
Messages
133
Location
Manheim, Pa
Ken

If you change it enough I think you can use maple syrup. I have used everything but mainly Mobil 1 10-40w in the T1 car. The shop uses 15-50w in all their race cars. I don't like it that thick in the spring and fall... Any good synthetic should be fine. People get way to hung up on this stuff. After 2 or 3 race-track weekends I dump and start over. We do use an accusump though which I like alot.
 

Cobra-R

Moderator
Established Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2000
Messages
5,387
Location
minnesota
BAD PNY said:
Ken

If you change it enough I think you can use maple syrup. I have used everything but mainly Mobil 1 10-40w in the T1 car. The shop uses 15-50w in all their race cars. I don't like it that thick in the spring and fall... Any good synthetic should be fine. People get way to hung up on this stuff. After 2 or 3 race-track weekends I dump and start over. We do use an accusump though which I like alot.


I agree with Mike, change frequency is much more important than the brand.

Brian
 

NJ2000R

Certified FORD Fanatic!
Established Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2001
Messages
2,970
Location
Northern NJ
mike and brian, I've heard from quite a few guys already that brand doesnt matter....it just comes down to personal preference....

reminds me of a story....my friend had an old cadillac with over 100k miles that his dad bought new....he changed the filter every 3000 miles, but never the oil :eek: he would add a quart of oil at the filter change, but never changed the oil :shrug: :lol1:
 

STAMPEDE3

SAULS BROTHER
Super Moderator
Joined
Apr 5, 2003
Messages
27,024
Location
South Louisiana
Not that it matters but here's my take.
Mobil 1 has been out for years, before the Exxon/Mobil merger.
I have some friends who are chemist and some Lab. techs for Exxon.
Back then after doing market test on other oils they were all useing Mobil 1 in their cars. most of them were going anywhere from 7500-15000 miles between changes. (This was before the merger so them worrying about their stock price did not factor) LOL
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top