Best Bang For Buck Heat Exchanger? Also REALLY needed or No?

Blacksmoke

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Looking to cool down the temps for summers.
What is the best bang for buck heat exchanger for a
08 GT500?

I don't track and mods are pulley,CAI, and tune.

Is a heat exchanger absolutely needed if you have done these mods and
race the car maybe four times a yr just against buddies no track?
Total mileage a yr maybe 3-4k.

I do live in TX where it gets hot in summer.
I'm not as worried about heat soak as I am damage via excessive heat causing detonation....but I don't know what it would take to do such a thing.
I'm a newbie as far as knowledge on this.

Is this something that would be a bonus or again with how I use the car is it still pretty much really needed?

Also.. will I need a bigger tank if I get a heat exchanger?

Thanks!
 
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zporta

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It's really not a best bang for the buck thing. They are all relatively close in price, but this is a mod where you don't want to skimp.

I wouldn't waste your time with a non-fan h/e. I know you say your not worried about heat soak. But why waste your money on something that could be upgraded in the future. Either save your money till you can do it right on use the money elsewhere.

I did all the cooling mods at once, it wasn't cheap but man did it cool the car off. I went with 170* thermostat, revan racing h/e and larger tank

Call Van, he will talk you through it.
 

VNMOUS1

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This isn't a matter of "keeping the car cooler" and its not like buying a bigger radiator.

The heat exchanger serves a single purpose ; cool the air charge as it applies to the intercooler.

The calibration in your car is set to begin pulling timing/spark at 110f downstream. Unless you're north of the Mason-Dixon, you have 10 months of the year when you'll eclipse 110 downstream by idling in your driveway.

At 150f you've lost a TON of power.

So, August.... Traffic... Slow... No air moving over a heat exchanger. You don't want to pull out and try to pass that semi.

All available premium heat exchangers work the same way:

More fluid capacity.
Runs through more than once per cycle to give the fluid more time to cool.

SPAL fans to pull fresh, ambient air through the fins.

We've measured our VMP Dual Fan unit and the Afco unit at almost 30mph across the fins while sitting still! Hot in traffic problem is now gone. Pulled timing no longer a factor.

All premium units are around the same dough.

Our VMP Tuning heat exchanger sports a pair of 10" fans and the size of the unit is literally about as large as you can put in the car. Some very minor trimming of unseen plastic pieces may be necessary in some cars. The unit is $799.00 and comes with a complete, custom designed plug and play harness.

Our Afco Pro Series heat exchanger is slightly smaller and 50 bucks less expensive.

Afco Racing builds our to our specifications.

You can see both at vmptuning.com

Cooling is as, if not more important that power mods. After all, why spend thousands of dollars on power mods when the pcm will just take the power away if it's too hot?

One final point; when we supply a calibration for a car that we know has enhanced cooling, we set the pcm parameters higher so it won't pull timing at all unless it's really hot.... And that is not going to happen with our heat exchanger onboard.

Hope this helps.

Bj
 

Silver_Serpent

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OP ... I would notice at least 100HP being robbed from my car after about 5 mins of driving around town. Without a duel fan H/E, there is just no way to regain that power without a looong run at speed, or letting the car sit and cool down. I am suprised you havent noticed the same thing in the Texas summer.

BJ, I am curious, why do the "timing vs downstream temp" parameters change based on stock vs aftermarket heat exchanger is in the car?

Also, I have the new VMP dual fan heat exchanger. Very nice looking unit. I didnt get a recalibration when I installed it. Am I leaving power on the table? Should I get it retuned?
 

Ninjak

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To the OP I would say its a mod worth doing when you have the funds available. I live in S. FL (Mia) and that is enough said. Lol our cool months may] start in oct, and run thru jan.....this is when its only 70ish or so. Since installing my Steeda unit, the car does feel different. It feels like the power is always there......it just seems to run better. Hard to describe, but I would say it never seems to feel down on power or slugish is the best way to put it.

@Vmp, I would also like to know if I need to be re-tuned or adjusted now that I have added a H/E. Should I do a another data log and send it up ?
 

Van@RevanRacing

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Looking to cool down the temps for summers.
What is the best bang for buck heat exchanger for a
08 GT500?

I don't track and mods are pulley,CAI, and tune.

Is a heat exchanger absolutely needed if you have done these mods and
race the car maybe four times a yr just against buddies no track?
Total mileage a yr maybe 3-4k.

I do live in TX where it gets hot in summer.
I'm not as worried about heat soak as I am damage via excessive heat causing detonation....but I don't know what it would take to do such a thing.
I'm a newbie as far as knowledge on this.

Is this something that would be a bonus or again with how I use the car is it still pretty much really needed?

Also.. will I need a bigger tank if I get a heat exchanger?

Thanks!

Blacksmoke

Here is a write up I did a while back about heat soak and the reasoning behind using my dual fan heat exchanger.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...cing-dual-fan-heat-exchanger.html#post9802642

If you have questions please do not hesitate to give me a call. :beer:

Van
Revan Racing
 

99cobraUgotbit

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One final point; when we supply a calibration for a car that we know has enhanced cooling, we set the pcm parameters higher so it won't pull timing at all unless it's really hot.... And that is not going to happen with our heat exchanger onboard.

Hope this helps.

Bj

Hey BJ. I got my car dyno tuned by you guys at Shelby fest. I recently got a C&R H/E a few months after. Is this something you guys need to do to my tune?
 
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VNMOUS1

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To the OP I would say its a mod worth doing when you have the funds available. I live in S. FL (Mia) and that is enough said. Lol our cool months may] start in oct, and run thru jan.....this is when its only 70ish or so. Since installing my Steeda unit, the car does feel different. It feels like the power is always there......it just seems to run better. Hard to describe, but I would say it never seems to feel down on power or slugish is the best way to put it.

@Vmp, I would also like to know if I need to be re-tuned or adjusted now that I have added a H/E. Should I do a another data log and send it up ?

No. The misnomer is that there is power to be FOUND with these systems. There is not. There is power that won't be LOST due to heat soak any longer. You can take a look at your datalog and see if your downstreams are above 125f. You won't pull much timing at lower temps.... It's the way it scales up after that which is the issue.

If you were racing your car and needed to squeeze every last horse out of it (FULLY modded) and your temps are <125 or so, the table could be adjusted to not pull anything at all until, say, 130.

As it is I wouldn't worry about it.

Bj
 

John@Lethal

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Hey Blacksmoke,

AFCO and C&R are easily the two best choices to go with if you're looking to do it right the first time. Both of which we offer, and both of which we've used successfully.

You'll be able to find them here:

AFCO Dual Pass Heat Exchanger w/Dual 10" Fans

C&R Dual Pass Heat Exchanger w/ Dual Puller Fans


You're entitled to save with your member discount, and the AFCO unit ships for free. Give us a call when you're ready and ask for any other promotions we may be running - you can also earn the Lethal Loyalty Points for every purchase with a registered account.
 

IronTerp

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This isn't a matter of "keeping the car cooler" and its not like buying a bigger radiator.

The heat exchanger serves a single purpose ; cool the air charge as it applies to the intercooler.

The calibration in your car is set to begin pulling timing/spark at 110f downstream. Unless you're north of the Mason-Dixon, you have 10 months of the year when you'll eclipse 110 downstream by idling in your driveway.

At 150f you've lost a TON of power.

So, August.... Traffic... Slow... No air moving over a heat exchanger. You don't want to pull out and try to pass that semi.

All available premium heat exchangers work the same way:

More fluid capacity.
Runs through more than once per cycle to give the fluid more time to cool.

SPAL fans to pull fresh, ambient air through the fins.

We've measured our VMP Dual Fan unit and the Afco unit at almost 30mph across the fins while sitting still! Hot in traffic problem is now gone. Pulled timing no longer a factor.

All premium units are around the same dough.

Our VMP Tuning heat exchanger sports a pair of 10" fans and the size of the unit is literally about as large as you can put in the car. Some very minor trimming of unseen plastic pieces may be necessary in some cars. The unit is $799.00 and comes with a complete, custom designed plug and play harness.

Our Afco Pro Series heat exchanger is slightly smaller and 50 bucks less expensive.

Afco Racing builds our to our specifications.

You can see both at vmptuning.com

Cooling is as, if not more important that power mods. After all, why spend thousands of dollars on power mods when the pcm will just take the power away if it's too hot?

One final point; when we supply a calibration for a car that we know has enhanced cooling, we set the pcm parameters higher so it won't pull timing at all unless it's really hot.... And that is not going to happen with our heat exchanger onboard.

Hope this helps.

Bj
BJ, thanks for taking the time to answer the OP's questions and share your knowledge with the rest of us! After all, this is a technical forum! Way too often, vendors just hawk their wares or suggest the OP call them directly for answers to their questions. And it's a shame since some of our vendors have excellent insight on how to make these cars perform better.
 

91z28350

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Not only is it worth while, but on these cars, especially in Texas, I would say it is MOD ONE! I have seen a good dual fan HE make a 100rwhp difference in like conditions,, same dyno, same car (mine). I personally use the CR as designed by Van@Revan Racing
 

VNMOUS1

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BJ, thanks for taking the time to answer the OP's questions and share your knowledge with the rest of us! After all, this is a technical forum! Way too often, vendors just hawk their wares or suggest the OP call them directly for answers to their questions. And it's a shame since some of our vendors have excellent insight on how to make these cars perform better.

My pleasure.
 

blackvette101

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its 100% worth it, I think the vmp unit with the 10'' fans is one of the biggest at the $800 price point. I'm about to put on the Shelby comp one that thing is massive and has 12'' fans. Its bigger then my 60 pound german shepard. But is was pretty pricey.
 
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ytix

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Bumping this thread back up because the most recent crop of heat exchanger questions are popping up like mushrooms and this useful thread provides information and data.
 

Blacksmoke

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Looks like ill be saving up the cash including Christmas and birthday money to get this done. I was going to get a set of DR's first since grip is non existent now after the pulley CAI and tune...but Id rather do this first and then do the DR's.
 

ZX6Ray

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Looks like ill be saving up the cash including Christmas and birthday money to get this done. I was going to get a set of DR's first since grip is non existent now after the pulley CAI and tune...but Id rather do this first and then do the DR's.

You still get money for your bday? How old are you? lol :p
 

Blacksmoke

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LOL the Christmas and birthday remarks were a joke.
Just saying I have to save up some extra funds and it will take a few months ;)
 

Blacksmoke

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So how much would I be looking at spending with the heat exchanger, thermostat, and tank together?

Also I have no clue what thermostat or tank to get.
Can someone post links?

Thanks so much!
 

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