Best anti-roll sway bar on the market??

[az20115.0]

Looking for a anti-roll kit compliment KW-V3 coilovers..
I would like to get the best or stiffest kit on the market.. Any thoughts??
Do I need the rear sway bar as well?

 

[twistedneck]

You should try the kit you have with the stock setup. Roll bars are meant to be for tuning, in the end you might only need a rear roll bar to help the car get into the corner better.. maybe a 25mm boss or 26mm Laguna rear bar.

The GT - Boss - Laguna all use the same front bar and just tune the rear bar.

Also, your current front bar has bonded bushings to help with on center feel - you will loose that going with a new bar.

What ever you get, it will use stiffer poly bushings, need new brackets, and it should have 3 tuning holes, front and rear.

 

[az20115.0]

You should try the kit you have with the stock setup. Roll bars are meant to be for tuning, in the end you might only need a rear roll bar to help the car get into the corner better.. maybe a 25mm boss or 26mm Laguna rear bar.

The GT - Boss - Laguna all use the same front bar and just tune the rear bar.

Also, your current front bar has bonded bushings to help with on center feel - you will loose that going with a new bar.

What ever you get, it will use stiffer poly bushings, need new brackets, and it should have 3 tuning holes, front and rear.

Why go with the rear and not the front? How does that put the car in the corner better?
Also, what do you mean by on center feel? will the car not stay on center with aftermarket front bar?

Thanks for the help

 

[twistedneck]

The current bar has bonded rubber bushings in front, they are glued to the bar. the outside of that rubber is not glued to the bushings - under very high travel conditions or speed bump type conditions, that outer rubber slips against the inside of the bracket. any force it takes to re-center that rubber reduces on center feel. that's why some guys don't like bonded bushings.. however most bonded bushings don't have that issue. mustang uses special slippery paint in that bracket to stop noise issues on that legacy design.

Some other oem's like a loose attachment in their super car stabars. so there is a Teflon liner - no bonding. but they don't get the corner rate they need but they also don't add on parasitic rate (making your stabar into a vehicle spring).

that said, the front system is fine because a low travels it does not slide the rubber at all, only over huge bumps.

Most of the reason they only adjust the rear is for cost.. it costs a lot to tool up new bar diameters, wall thicknesses, and tuning for bushing durometers and preload. that's why the three hole bars front and rear would be your best bet IF you don't like how its handling with the factory setup.

too stiff on the rear and the car wont turn it will only 'translate'.. same on the front, you need some roll compliance and they have to be balanced, and it cant be sticky or have memory. three hole front and rear with aftermarket slippery bushings - cant go wrong.

 

[CSG]

As said bars are for tuning and balance. Stiff front equals understeer, stiff rear equals oversteer. Big stiff bars feel fast to people who can't drive...

 

[az20115.0]

The current bar has bonded rubber bushings in front, they are glued to the bar. the outside of that rubber is not glued to the bushings - under very high travel conditions or speed bump type conditions, that outer rubber slips against the inside of the bracket. any force it takes to re-center that rubber reduces on center feel. that's why some guys don't like bonded bushings.. however most bonded bushings don't have that issue. mustang uses special slippery paint in that bracket to stop noise issues on that legacy design.

Some other oem's like a loose attachment in their super car stabars. so there is a Teflon liner - no bonding. but they don't get the corner rate they need but they also don't add on parasitic rate (making your stabar into a vehicle spring).

that said, the front system is fine because a low travels it does not slide the rubber at all, only over huge bumps.

Most of the reason they only adjust the rear is for cost.. it costs a lot to tool up new bar diameters, wall thicknesses, and tuning for bushing durometers and preload. that's why the three hole bars front and rear would be your best bet IF you don't like how its handling with the factory setup.

too stiff on the rear and the car wont turn it will only 'translate'.. same on the front, you need some roll compliance and they have to be balanced, and it cant be sticky or have memory. three hole front and rear with aftermarket slippery bushings - cant go wrong.

That is great info, but still a bit confusing for a novice like me... Here is what I am wondering, how does modifying rear suspension affect the front grip?? Meaning, how is understeer eliminated by tightening the rear?

Here is what I am after.. Right no the car feels great with the exception of just a little understeer.. I don't want to eliminate uderrsteer by loosing grip in the rear.. I want to eliminate understeer by adding grip to the front..

I measured the lateral G-force on the car as it sits, and it pretty easily turns over 1 G.. I am getting numbers like 1.1 - 1.18 and definitely don't wanna loose any of that.. If anything, I want to increase it..

Also, my tires at the moment mismatched so in the front I have nitto invos and rears are wider and are nitto 555r.. I imagine swapping for some better tires in the front will clean up some of that understeer..

I just want to make sure that as far as chassis and suspension is concerned, I am doing everything I can (without completely breaking the bank) to have as much grip as possible, front and rear, with a neutral feel


Thanks again

 

[CSG]

Going stiffer at either end will reduce the grip at that end.

 

[az20115.0]

Going stiffer at either end will reduce the grip at that end.

Oh.. thats sucks
So for maximum grip, leaving the weak rear sway bar is the best thing?