Barton bracket installed
- Thread starter GT915
- Start date
I bought a used bracket without instruction so I found this install video. My bracket has a silicone rubber block glued to the top, I would guess to help combat NVH. I'm not sure if the block is something the previous owner added of if it's an updated design as I don't see the block in the video. I torqued the clamp part down pretty tight but I purposely did not totally compress the silicone block up against the transmission tunnel and I used lots of loctite on the nuts. The studs in the tunnel are small and they would have broken before the bracket was against the tunnel anyway. Does it work? I have no idea I have a foot of snow in my driveway but hopefully it will control NVH without adding too much lateral movement.
Barton 2 Post Bracket Install - YouTube
Barton 2 Post Bracket Install - YouTube
I doubt you would be able to add rubber between the shifter and the clamp. There isn't enough space and you would run the risk of breaking of the key on the top of the shifter.
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So far nvh is gone, in the city anyway will test on highway tomorrow, will also post later with what I did and why I had so much nvh, and nearly turned my bracket into a paperweight
Has anyone added the Barton bracket with the Hurst shifter? I got the Hurst for Christmas and am trying to decide if I should add the Barton bracket.
If funds allow, I'd absolutely add the bracket. Take a look at the POS oem bracket and you'll see that it's pathetic at best.
I have the Barton 2 post with a Hurst shifter. I had a Progressive suspension bushing just like the bushing that comes with the Hurst kit. And it woks great. The poly bushings works almost as good as the Barton bracket, almost. A whole lot better than the sponge OEM garbage bush... So if cost is a factor use the Hurst poly bushing and enjoy the shifter...
finally back to reply
ok so i have been busy as all hell working 12's everyday since Christmas, so i decided to do this install one night after work, because i could not wait, and it seemed to be simple enough, which it is, especially if you can lift your car easily.
so out with the old and end with then know, reading the instructions, making sure i had it all in the correct position, and facing the right way. followed it all step by step, and the cal sounded like ass, and the bracket did not perform for a few days till i had the time to go back under.
in the instructions it tells you to bolt the two pieces of the bracket together (snug), then slide it all the way back of the collar, hub, whatever you want to call it, and i did this, but apparently i did not have it snug enough or something was in a bind during the finger tight part. when i slid it to the back of the hub and tightened it down it would not close up all the way, which i want sure about, but the hub is keyed so i let it be. im talking like maybe an 1/8th in gap.
that was the whole issue, the top half with the key way overhang farther than the bottom half of the bracket, so i had a few issues.
1. the bracket was an 1/8 to 3/16 father back than its suppose to be
2. the whole bracket was hitting, rubbing the trans tunnel where it curves down to the drive-shaft tunnel.
3. the whole bracket was in a bind. the post were not sliding straight with the bushing.
so i had to pull it all out chip, and file on the bracket where it dug into the collar of the hub. turned the bushing 90 degrees. lubed them and that part seemed to work great. them i used so gasket making material and made a thin layer in the bracket to squeezes around the hub. i also use a thin, very sticky/durable rubber material, and stuck to the tunnel, where the bracket had rubbed at, and it now sound like stock again, but performs better.
i have pics i may try to add later, finally got a few days off, but so much to make up for
ok so i have been busy as all hell working 12's everyday since Christmas, so i decided to do this install one night after work, because i could not wait, and it seemed to be simple enough, which it is, especially if you can lift your car easily.
so out with the old and end with then know, reading the instructions, making sure i had it all in the correct position, and facing the right way. followed it all step by step, and the cal sounded like ass, and the bracket did not perform for a few days till i had the time to go back under.
in the instructions it tells you to bolt the two pieces of the bracket together (snug), then slide it all the way back of the collar, hub, whatever you want to call it, and i did this, but apparently i did not have it snug enough or something was in a bind during the finger tight part. when i slid it to the back of the hub and tightened it down it would not close up all the way, which i want sure about, but the hub is keyed so i let it be. im talking like maybe an 1/8th in gap.
that was the whole issue, the top half with the key way overhang farther than the bottom half of the bracket, so i had a few issues.
1. the bracket was an 1/8 to 3/16 father back than its suppose to be
2. the whole bracket was hitting, rubbing the trans tunnel where it curves down to the drive-shaft tunnel.
3. the whole bracket was in a bind. the post were not sliding straight with the bushing.
so i had to pull it all out chip, and file on the bracket where it dug into the collar of the hub. turned the bushing 90 degrees. lubed them and that part seemed to work great. them i used so gasket making material and made a thin layer in the bracket to squeezes around the hub. i also use a thin, very sticky/durable rubber material, and stuck to the tunnel, where the bracket had rubbed at, and it now sound like stock again, but performs better.
i have pics i may try to add later, finally got a few days off, but so much to make up for
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