ARP extended wheel studs install

Greenwood1982

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Hey guys!

It has been sometime since I've posted on here. I hope all my fellow cobra brothers and sisters are doing well.

I recently took off the stock rotors, gutted the stock calipers, had them powder coated and ready to install soon. I also purchased new rotors with ARP extended wheel studs for the rear end. I do not have a compressor and an impact gun for that matter, and was wondering if anyone can advise me the best way to install these longer studs? I have already tried the open lug nut and washer way and have already stripped a stud. I'm assuming the grade of nut must not have been the best kind to use. Are there any modifications to the wheel stud itself, any shimming with a dremel to the head of that nature or are these studs ready to install without any? It seemed like the side of the head was rubbing against the inside of the hub assembly. Not sure if the nut was just to weak or if that had anything to do with the clearance of stud itself. In other words if anyone has these on their Cobras, how did install them. haha

Also I do have a wheel spacer.....do I have to use open ended lugs, or can the stock ones still be used with the wheel spacer being used?

Thanks guys


Mike
 

Soap

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Just get an impact, they will draw right in. And make sure you use antiseize and washers.

Just measure the length of the stud sticking out from your wheel and see if it's less than the depth of the lugnut......that will tell you if you need open lugs or not

--Joe
 

KLLR SNK

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Throw the studs in the freezer the night before and pull them out right before the install. There are different lengths of ARP studs so you will have to measure them as said above. I like the shorter Steeda specific studs for our cars.
 

03' White Snake

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Depending on which studs you bought, you will need to open up the hole for the stud to press in. So research the studs you bought.
 

olympic

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The Moroso studs are 3" length, the ARP's are 3.5". I bought the ARP's and the knurl is much bigger (like 0.030"!!!) than the hole in the hub, especially if you have new hubs. I wasn't comfortable with the amount of force it was going to take to get them in plus the amount of stretching that was going to occur in the metal around the holes. So I used a 39/64" drill bit to open them up and then installed the studs with a press.

If the head of the studs rub on the knuckle then you'll have to grind the heads down a bit on one side. I haven't installed the hub into the wheel bearing yet but it looked like they would clear when I was eyeballing it.
 

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