Anyone running the Kenne Bell CAI system???

Silver TT

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I hear alot about the Amazon Racing intake or some homemade setups, but what about the Kenne Bell? :shrug:

Anyone believe all the points they make here on this page?

http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/CobraCoolAir/CobraCoolAir.htm

FILTER - The 6" and 9" long cone filters commonly used by others were also inadequate for the supercharged Cobra. Our flow bench and dyno tests told us that we needed a monster 12" long filter with a 4" opening.

HOSE & MASS AIR METER ADAPTOR - Experience has taught us that cheapie metal tubing is not the answer. The underhood temperature heats the metal and the air flowing through it. This is a no brainer. Would you rather touch hot metal or cool plastic? We used a durable plastic-rubber reinforced non collapsible smooth wall hose to connect the filter to our billet aluminum flared mass air meter adaptor. Unrestricted laminar flow into the meter is a must at high HP levels.

LOCATION - When will the rest get this right? Never, never locate an exposed air filter in the engine compartment where the temperature can be 150° hotter (+10°=1%HP loss) and result in up to 50HP loss! We figured out a way to mount it in the fenderwell where it's surrounded by cool air. And this is the only area large enough to accept the required 12" filter. The other major problem avoided with a fenderwell location is "fan wash" (fan air disrupting laminar air flow into the meter).

TESTING - To test the effectiveness of any inlet system (stock or aftermarket) we remove it completely and install our "Bazooka" inlet, a 4"x20" long open end tube. Then we see how it compares to this "0" restriction Bazooka at the various HP levels (400-750 with the Cobra).

The Kenne Bell "Cobra Cool Air Kit" will handle 625 rear wheel / 726 engine HP. No other Cool Air Kit can compare to this kit's power potential and flexibility.

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I don't see why a nice hard plastic setup with some heat resistance wouldn't do an even better job than a flexible soft plastic tube....curious what you guys think.

Thanks,

Dan
 

JSHTROD

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I think it looks like shit. Some damn dryer hose running from the maf to the fenderwell.

I'll keep my UPR, thanks.
 

SynMan5.0

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"Never, never locate an exposed air filter in the engine compartment where the temperature can be 150° hotter (+10°=1%HP loss) and result in up to 50HP loss!"

:rollseyes
 

Poisonous Mods

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Heats our Enemy. But it does look crappy compared to the UPR Set up.
The price range looks around the same. UPR & KB CAI is fender based so it wont be an open elament in the Engine bay.
 

j card

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Actually, I agree with all of it, that's why I decided to buy the KB system over the others - that, and it was cheaper than most.

First of all, no one will ever convince me that a smaller filter makes more power, and a few companies claim that. KB uses the largest filter I have seen, I like that.

The KB system gets the filter way down low in the fender away from engine heat - I like that too. The cooler the better. I think that underhood heat has to be the enemy. This usually doesn't show up on a dyno because guys usually have the hood open with a fan blowing in there. I think in normal driving, it has to help some - how much is debateable.

I agree that the other units look better, but I usually go for function first. It doesn't use dryer hose by the way, this is some tough stuff that doesn't collapse - I tried. You also can't kink the stuff either - I tried that too.

The main thing that sold me was reading the other KB tech stuff. They back their claims up with real test results based on solid theory. I do a lot of dyno testing, and their tech stuff makes a lot of sense. If you want pretty, don't buy it. To me, I see an open element under the hood and I think it looks stupid, no matter how much chrome you put on it. Just my opinion.

John
 

Poisonous Mods

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Got to go with what Jcard says. Its about the Perfomance VS the Beuaty.

Also the fact that the Hood is up that true. Ur not going to run with the Hood up.
 

j card

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Originally posted by Scream'nCobra
How much hp/tq did you pick up with the KB CAI?

I haven't done the back to back test yet, I just put it on for the time being. It definitely felt stronger though. In the next week or two, I'll set my dyno back up and test it. I'll post the results when I get them.

John
 

kpinco

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j card: I agree with you 100%. I love the KB CAI and noticed a big difference. Just look at the latest MMFF article the HP difference from the K&N filter and the KB CAI is huge!
 

03droptop

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mine caused my car to stall and check engine light to stay on took it back to stock getting a steeda cai
 

kpinco

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03droptop: Where did you put the MAF sensor? That is a big key to getting the air in and performance. Do you still have it? PM me and I can give you a couple of tips.
 

Poisonous Mods

little moddie
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Kpinco. Great Place. Suck that nice clean air.

If u think Open Filter right next to the Engine Bay is good well run hard & long. Pull into ur driveway & open the hood. Feel that heat rush to ur face. U can also feel the stock Filter Housing its not cool at all.
 

j card

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Originally posted by Shadowgray03
How the heck do you get a 12" long filter into the fenderwell?

It takes a little work.... It wasn't that bad actually. You can see the end cap of my filter through the brake cooling hole, but not the pleats. If the intercooler pump and hoses weren't in the way it would be a piece of cake.

John
 

Shadowgray03

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Originally posted by j card
It takes a little work.... It wasn't that bad actually. You can see the end cap of my filter through the brake cooling hole, but not the pleats. If the intercooler pump and hoses weren't in the way it would be a piece of cake.

John
Got any pics?
 

Shadowgray03

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Anything to give me a better indication of how the filter sits inside there. I assume you stuck it in from the bottom? How do ya get the filter clamps onto the hose?
 

j card

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Originally posted by Shadowgray03
Anything to give me a better indication of how the filter sits inside there. I assume you stuck it in from the bottom? How do ya get the filter clamps onto the hose?

You clamp the hose on to the filter first, then work it in place through the wheel well - you have to pull the liner back to get access in there (1 screw and it pulls back). Once the filter is where you want it, you route the hose up through the hole to the MAF - then clamp it to the MAF adapter when you're happy with everything. I stuck my arm down the tube to make sure it wasn't kinked anywhere first - it wasn't.

Since that thing is stuffed in there, it may be tough to get a descent photo, but I'll see what I can do.

John
 

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