Any idea why I frequently have to reset the ECU? (poor performance)

[JPs2013GT500]

Seems that over time (about 1 to 2 months) my car becomes noticeably sluggish with a very rough idle and lots of popping on deceleration. When this becomes noticeable I pull the negative connection to the battery, turn on the headlights, and open the doors. Leave it like this for 10 minutes or so. I then reconnect the negative battery cable, go through setting the time & presets on the radio and fire it up. It now runs amazingly well. Engine idles smoothly and it pulls strong again, no (or very little) popping on deceleration.

Works great like this for a while. However, in a month or two I have to do this all over again to get the performance back.

Thoughts on what would cause this?

 

[07 Black Beauty]

I had the same issue on my 07 after installing a monoblade TB, car ran like a dream during the 1st drive after killing the memory but would revert to stalling, surging and hunting idle after that.

 

[JPs2013GT500]

Did you change throttle bodies? If so, what did you switch to?

 

[07 Black Beauty]

Did you change throttle bodies? If so, what did you switch to?

Kept the TB it took about 2 months to get the tune right where the car was driveable but never 100%.My tuner was never able to figure out exactly what the issue was. I'm currently running the FRPP mono on my 13, I initially had issues with the TB sent it to Accufab as was told they had some bad batches go out which may have been the issue on my last one , when I got it back it drove like stock w/ no issues since.

 

[2011 gtcs]

Kept the TB it took about 2 months to get the tune right where the car was driveable but never 100%.My tuner was never able to figure out exactly what the issue was. I'm currently running the FRPP mono on my 13, I initially had issues with the TB sent it to Accufab as was told they had some bad batches go out which may have been the issue on my last one , when I got it back it drove like stock w/ no issues since.

Try getting tuned by Lund and see how the car runs.

 

[07 Black Beauty]

Try getting tuned by Lund and see how the car runs.

Lund and PBH are the ones that did the tuning on both cars, that's why I think it was an issue with the original TB. My current 13 is running like a dream after getting my mono back from Accufab w/ a Lund.

 

[JPs2013GT500]

I have the dual 65mm and haven't heard of many issues with those, but it's a possibility. I've been eyeing the twin 67 or mono blade, so I may try one of those.

Also, FWIW, it happens with multiple tunes (Lund, VMP, and now a tune from a local shop). So that points me to something specific to my car (but no engine codes are stored).

 

[07 Black Beauty]

I have the dual 65mm and haven't heard of many issues with those, but it's a possibility. I've been eyeing the twin 67 or mono blade, so I may try one of those.

Also, FWIW, it happens with multiple tunes (Lund, VMP, and now a tune from a local shop). So that points me to something specific to my car (but no engine codes are stored).

Have you tried putting the stock TB back on?

 

[JPs2013GT500]

I haven't yet, but I will try that before purchasing another aftermarket TB.

 

[07 Black Beauty]

When's the last time you changed or checked the plugs?

 

[JPs2013GT500]

I changed them from the original plugs earlier this year when I installed the 2.39" pulley. That was back in March I believe. The car probably had about 9000 miles at that time. I installed NGK TR7 ix plugs gapped at .028.

I ran some torco through it this summer so I thought that may be why it's running rough lately (fouled plugs). I changed them again two weeks ago (12000 miles). This time I used NGK BR7EF plugs with a gap of .035. I went with a larger gap because the dash boost gauge is only reading 15lb's of boost at WOT instead of the 17 or so I expected with the 2.39" pulley. That being said, I've read the stock boost reading isn't perfectly accurate. Guess I should connect an actual gauge to verify the real boost level so I can set the gap accordingly.

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

When it gets to the point where it is running like crap you should data log the car. Disconnecting the battery is clearing memory and potentially embedded codes that the SCT Device can't scan or read. Additionally data logging the car when it runs rough again can be very informative. Especially if you look at short term fuel trims and your commanded wide bands.

 

[JPs2013GT500]

Will data log it more frequently to try and catch the decline as it builds this next time.