another quick question on NXT generation 2.0 wax

[Taunto]

last time i used this product i had all these dark swils and spots left in the paint. i was told that the wax wasnt broken down right or it needs 24hours to fully cure.

how exactly do u break it down real good when using by hand. do u just go over the same spots a few times?

 

[SVT543of2003]

NXT is a sealant, so all you're doing with it is sealing in the swirls....lol.

You need meguiars swirl remover 2.0 first then you seal it after. NXT is a powerful sealant, but in doing that it will show all the flaws.

The proper steps are:

1. wash with dish soap, get everything off.
2. clay bar with quick detailer
3. swirl remover 1.0 or 2.0 depending how bad. You need a porter cable or similar for this step.
4. A good wax like Klasse or similar
5. Sealer, and you can keep going with layers and layers of this to perfection.

That's all off the shelf. If you want to really get serious Zaino has a multi-step system. It takes effort to really get a quality finish. After each step you remove products with CLEAN microfibre towels. Don't use the claybar if you've dropped it on the ground at all.

I like your sig.

 

[SVT543of2003]

I just noticed you're from Canada:

Check this out:

eShine Canada- Removing Those Nasty Swirls

 

[Taunto]

its not swirl marks. i know of those.. its like dark spots on the paint tho.. but ive been doin everything by hand lately and off the shelft stuff to. workin great so far. i got a 3 day cleaning process right now on my truck.. ill post some pics up when its all done

 

[SVT543of2003]

its not swirl marks. i know of those.. its like dark spots on the paint tho.. but ive been doin everything by hand lately and off the shelft stuff to. workin great so far. i got a 3 day cleaning process right now on my truck.. ill post some pics up when its all done

The bottle of wax you are using.......did it freeze at all over the winter in the garage? I've never heard of wax doing what you are saying......

 

[jtm]

is this nxt or isnt there a newer nxt2.0? i tried the original and didnt really like it.i remember it did the same, kind of blotchy. anyone know if this 2.0 is a different product and if its better?

 

[STG]

When you have a question about a Meguiar's product, you should:

A: Ask it on SVTP.

B: Ask it on meguiarsonline.com, where the guys who formulated and manufactured it post.

What was the temperature and humidity when you applied it? How did you apply it?

When you hear 24 hours in conjunction with Nxt, it's waiting 24 hours if you want to apply a second coat. That's how long it takes to fully cure. It doesn't mean wait 24 hrs. to wipe it off.

Apply a t-h-i-n coat of all waxes and sealants. Very t-h-i-n. Let haze and wipe off. You can apply a second coat right away to ensure 100% coverage,let haze and wipe off. Wait 24 hours to apply another coat.

 

[Taunto]

temp out side was maybe 24degrees celcius. humidty unkown. i was doing it my garage. the bottle is fairly new. it is the nxt 2.0. and yes i am doing a very thin coat. well i tried it on the front bumber of the truck today.. we'll see. i let it haze and all. i think it set for 30-45 mins. i'll apply another coat when i come home from work tomorrow. I think i just wasnt breaking the wax down good enough last time.. we'll see... ill get some pics of the progress tomorrow if i can

 

[STG]

is this nxt or isnt there a newer nxt2.0? i tried the original and didnt really like it.i remember it did the same, kind of blotchy. anyone know if this 2.0 is a different product and if its better?

I still have bottles of ver 1.0 and I've never had a problem. That said, 2.0 is different. I know a few guys who had issues with 1.0 that disappeared with 2.0. Additionally, it was reformulated to bead water more aggressively. Evidently, consumers judge a wax/sealants durability by water beading. According to Meguiar's chemists, beading is not am indicator of durability, but that's what customers look for, so they amped it up. All their new products are hyped as hydrophobic.

It was explained tome that sheeting is better. Water beads on paint in sunlight is worse.

 

[mblgjr]

The dark blotches is usually just where it was applied too thick.

1.0 was bad about doing this...no matter what you did.

It would usually go away after you washed the car, or waited a day and gave it a QD wipedown. I'd suggest the same here.

 

[STG]

Don't be afraid to call Meguiar's customer service. The number's on the back lable, they'll either make it right or refund your money.

mbligjr is right. You are probably pitting it on way too thick. Most people do. You should barely be able to see the coat as you apply it. After it hazes and you buff off the residue, you can apply a second thin coat for coverage.

If you think you're applying it thinly, cut the amount your using by 50%. Yes I wrote that correctly!

 

[mblgjr]

OP: if you're using the liquid you REALLY have to keep it ridiculously thin. You'll think you're not putting any on the paint for the most part.

The paste is a little easier to work with and keep even coverage. I actually just tried it on my VistaBlue, I know I went a little thick in HIGH humidity just to see if it would mess with me and go blotchy like the 1.0 used to; it didn't, it just hazed up harder in that area and buffed right off.

I'm with STG...whatever you're using, cut it by 50% and see if life doesn't get easier.

And btw, wax doesn't have to be 'worked in' or broken down like a polish. You just apply a single layer to the surface and remove it. There's no abrasives to break down or anything...it's just wax (or sealant in this case). 2.0 does have some hellacious filling ability though, so you will see a reduction in fine swirl marks.

 

[hand-to-ball]

last time i used this product i had all these dark swils and spots left in the paint. i was told that the wax wasnt broken down right or it needs 24hours to fully cure.

how exactly do u break it down real good when using by hand. do u just go over the same spots a few times?

Exactly why I don't use this garbage. It streaks and never comes off correctly. Try Mother's FX Synwax for a GREAT alternative.

 

[bmxer89]

I had the same problem with that wax today it like woulnt come off right now my car looks all spotty and blotchy really looks liek crap. I used a super thin amount, I kno I did because the container was almost empty when i started.

 

[lancec2c30]

Exactly why I don't use this garbage. It streaks and never comes off correctly. Try Mother's FX Synwax for a GREAT alternative.

:lol:

It isn't garbage just because you don't know how to apply it...

 

[thomas91169]

NXT is a sealant, so all you're doing with it is sealing in the swirls....lol.

You need meguiars swirl remover 2.0 first then you seal it after. NXT is a powerful sealant, but in doing that it will show all the flaws.

The proper steps are:

1. wash with dish soap, get everything off.
2. clay bar with quick detailer
3. swirl remover 1.0 or 2.0 depending how bad. You need a porter cable or similar for this step.
4. A good wax like Klasse or similar
5. Sealer, and you can keep going with layers and layers of this to perfection.

That's all off the shelf. If you want to really get serious Zaino has a multi-step system. It takes effort to really get a quality finish. After each step you remove products with CLEAN microfibre towels. Don't use the claybar if you've dropped it on the ground at all.

I like your sig.

what the hell OTC place sells porter cables, backer plates and pads, Klasse or anything thats PC friendly for that matter? Id love for a place here to sell this stuff so i can just take a 5min drive and pick it up whenever i get the need/want to detail. Usually i go into the garage, get all amped up to detail something, look in my tote, see all my pads are shit, im out of xxx product, i need more microfibers, etc, get dissapointed and go inside and order the stuff, then when it gets here im not in the mood for it lol.

If you get a PC (porter-cable) you are stepping into a whole new realm of automotive detailing. Throw everything you ever bought from Autozone or OTC away, its all crap (save for microfibers, kragens has cheap packs of 24 that are great for basic detialing though i still keep nicer/fluffier ones for fine detailing). The best place to look is autopia.org or autogeek.net forums on how to use a porter-cable. You will spend $300-400 on a porter-cable kit and everything else to get the job done, but the end result blows anything hand applied (even precious Zaino) away ten fold.

I just spent $200 on more pads, more product (Optimum Polish II and Compound II, a bottle of Opti-Seal), some claybar kits, BlackWow for trims, and some other odds and ends. I really need to invest in a Rotary next, so i can do these 8 hour details in 3-4 without killing myself and get even better results.


as for your issue, it sounds like you are using way too much product. I did the same when i used NXT 2.0, used to coat it on thick and wonder why i had to really use pressure to remove it. Then i did a search on why, learned about real detailing products and techniques, and never looked back.

 

[hand-to-ball]

:lol:

It isn't garbage just because you don't know how to apply it...

I know how to apply it, and I've tried by hand and with a finishing pad and PC. When compared to other synthetics, it is not very good. Version 1 was horrible, version 2 isn't as bad - but there are much better OTC sealants out there.

If I want an LSP that's a pain in the ass to remove, I'll apply a carnauba.

 

[STG]

I've never had a problem with v. 1.0!:banana:

 

[chinchilla]

i've seen nxt do that on several black cars, one guy said it went away after he used it a few times.

 

[stang8762]

Is the NXT 2.0 not that great for black cars? Who has used it on their black cars? My cobra is 2 toned Black/ Red so i want a selant/wax that will look good on both.