Need help on piecing a new forged shortblock. I spun a rod bearing and chipped pieces off a piston on my stock cobra engine. Bought a used mark8 longblock amd it overheated on wife causing a blown headgasket. Needs to be forged. Looking for something that can handle about 600rwhp. Car currently is pushing 454hp with unknown tq. Its tuned via a unknown chip looks to be an autologic chip. It has a vortech strim with unknown 4" powerpipe pushing 10lbs of boost. Want to be around 9:5 to 10:1 compression on stock B heads. I was looking at forged mmr kits but people say there no good others say they are. All opinions welcomed.
Another one bites the dust....Need new shortblock
- Thread starter Boosted_Drop
- Start date
Buying components from MMR is fine, but do not allow them to assemble a shortblock for you. There are way too many documented failures of their shortblocks and longblocks.
I'd recommend buying a rotating assembly or quality components individually and working with a good local machine shop. You'll come away with a good product and have someone local to go to for support and questions should issues arise.
I'd recommend buying a rotating assembly or quality components individually and working with a good local machine shop. You'll come away with a good product and have someone local to go to for support and questions should issues arise.
Not going to get into the he said she said of an MMR battle. I'll just say that I would have no issue having MMR put a motor together for me. That is my opinion.
I have heard all the bad things about MMR, but the price is right. I may go that route when my time comes. I know I want to do 10:1 ish and install a centri, with similar power goals (600 or so). Anyway good luck whichever route you go. You could always watch the market for a decent Terminator shortblock. They are a little lower compression than youre looking for though.
If you could live with 8.5:1 I second a Terminator shortblock. I snagged one a few years ago for $500 on the forum with low miles after I popped my stock block and it worked great.
I thought the price was right from MMR once, too. Before all of the bad press on them really started to come out. The shortblock they built me was never right from the very beginning and lasted less than 2,000 miles. When I disassembled it, there was a laundry list of things done wrong on it - improperly sized bearing, wrong main studs, wildly varying torque values. Wound up with trashed main bearings, a block with sprung main caps that was useless to me and a crank that needed to be turned. Somehow absolutely none of that was their fault though. They have an A+ rating with the better business Bureau and have never had a motor fail because of any fault of theirs, you know....
I should post the pictures of my shortblock one of these days.
I'm not a he said, she said guy. I lived it, and so did my bank account.
I should post the pictures of my shortblock one of these days.
I'm not a he said, she said guy. I lived it, and so did my bank account.
This statement made me lol. The old adage holds true, you get what you pay for.
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I actually would like you to send those pics to me.
No motor built with the wrong bearings should last even 2000 miles.
depends onjust how wrong they are. local boy in town got burnt from them too. if you deal with a local shop then you will be able to talk to them face to face .for me that's worth sonething
Have you no local shops? I went over and over where to have mine built. I finally stumbled upon a local place that is providing a warranty on both engines for me. $2500 for the machining, cleaning, balancing, and building of my long block.
PM is on the way.
What about there 4.75 stroker kits. I have a local shop that can build my longblock. Mostly just looking for kit or piece one together
Take the Teksid block you have and find a competent machine shop that is local(ish). Get the block cleaned, checked, and have cylinder walls cleaned up. Have stock crank turned, find 03/04 Manley/SVT rods (I bought two sets at $325ea), get a new set of pistons ($600ish). That would be cheaper than the striker kit by far.
The shop building my engine is charging me $2500 for building my engine. That is cleaning, decking, bore, turning crank, balancing everything, cam install, spring install, and putting long block together, and a warranty. They are an hour away and 15 minutes from the shop doing my install. Little piece of mind if anything fails.
If you use your stock block, make SURE the machine shop has plenty of experience working with aluminum blocks. If they tell you that the block can be machined without torque plates RUN AWAY and DO NOT LOOK BACK. Tell them if you have plans for boost, etc down the road because ring gaps change depending on which way you go. Make sure they remove the plugs on the main oil galley to flush the crud out (and then put the plugs back in).
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