Another alternator going bad...

[holiks03cobra]

I know our cars are known for killing alternators but 1 about every year is a little much. This one is acting a little different from my other failures. Still has 13-14 volts when driving but can't go wot(was done before I knew the alt was bad). At idle the volts fall to mid/low 12's and I have seen high 11's. The battery light comes on intermittently and even when the volts are good.

 

[01yellercobra]

Sounds like the voltage regulator is on its way out. When/if my current alternator goes out I'm going to drop the coin on a Nations.

 

[*Jay*]

Do yourself a favor and really check all your ground lines/straps from end to end and the mounting points on each side before you run your replacement alt. I've burned up 2 motorcraft and a third rebuilt motorcraft was on its way out before I upgraded to a Mechman. While doing the Big3 with the Mechman wire kit I found at least 2 ground lines cut, tucked, hidden or missing all together.

I can only assume that had something to do with my alts dying off as they did, the PO had a trunk mounted battery and I am guessing thats why everything was cut. If you stay with a Motorcraft alternator there is a nice threaded hole on the backside of the case to add a dedicated ground line too.

 

[holiks03cobra]

Sounds like the voltage regulator is on its way out. When/if my current alternator goes out I'm going to drop the coin on a Nations.

Nations is the one I was gonna go with but don't want to put it on and burn it up in a year.

Do yourself a favor and really check all your ground lines/straps from end to end and the mounting points on each side before you run your replacement alt. I've burned up 2 motorcraft and a third rebuilt motorcraft was on its way out before I upgraded to a Mechman. While doing the Big3 with the Mechman wire kit I found at least 2 ground lines cut, tucked, hidden or missing all together.

I can only assume that had something to do with my alts dying off as they did, the PO had a trunk mounted battery and I am guessing thats why everything was cut. If you stay with a Motorcraft alternator there is a nice threaded hole on the backside of the case to add a dedicated ground line too.

I did the big 3 not too long ago so I'm sure my wires are fine. I will double check them though.

 

[hotcobra03]

I had replaced only 1 ground wire..

battery to radiator support..

oem cable was burned up inside casing..

I notied volts read different from battery to inside car..

I had taken on some work out of town..haven't driven the car but twice this year.. went home last week..

could not believe that it fired right up..

I had always had to jump car after a couple days of sitting since new..

 

[holiks03cobra]

Pretty sure I found the problem

 

[*Jay*]

Yikes, that could have turned out very bad. Is that a pinch, rub or just contact???

Thats your clutch cable correct, I ziptied a piece of heater hose there for that exact reason.

 

[CobraBob]

Oh, wow! GREAT catch!

 

[holiks03cobra]

Yikes, that could have turned out very bad. Is that a pinch, rub or just contact???

Thats your clutch cable correct, I ziptied a piece of heater hose there for that exact reason.

It is the clutch cable. It rubbed through the outer layer and was contacting the metal inside.

Oh, wow! GREAT catch!

Thank you, sir!

 

[hotcobra03]

I would repace that cable also..

I had a small melted spot by master cylinder..just the black..it wasn' right away..but my cable did blow out in that spot..

you may want to tweak the bracket on frame rail..to pull cable more to driver side..

I noticed oem fit better than aftermarket cable..

 

[holiks03cobra]

I would repace that cable also..

I had a small melted spot by master cylinder..just the black..it wasn' right away..but my cable did blow out in that spot..

you may want to tweak the bracket on frame rail..to pull cable more to driver side..

I noticed oem fit better than aftermarket cable..

I will do that. All I use is oem cables. Thanks