Arrived! Yah. All other parts are on the way. Tonight, I will get front bumper off.
Last edited:
Another 4r70w swap in progress on 03 Cobra
- Thread starter mhinchley
- Start date
Arrived! Yah. All other parts are on the way. Tonight, I will get front bumper off.
Finally got back to this as work and other crap have gotten in the way. I am wanting to get this completed before next Friday, so going to be working on it daily from here on out, after work. Local drag strip only open for 2 more Fridays after tomorrow for test n tune. If I miss that, next closest is 3+ hours away. Tonight got the bumper off, clutch/brake pedal ass. removed & single brake pedal installed. All parts are here except for shifter cable & bracket, driveshaft loop, and wiring harness from our own Torrance, that is it. Everything else is here, so should be good.
Last edited:
Today I cut the tunnel & mounter the cooler. I need to weld in some metal to mount the shifter & make a shroud to cover the portion of the cooler that resides in the wheel well. Guess those 2 tasks are for tomorrow.
Sick a** tranny
after we welding in some metal brackets to mount the shifter on it, we didn't notice it left some small holes that allowed alot of heat to enter the interior compartment. we got the car back on the lift to weld a plate under the car to cover up the hole but no dice since the shifter kinda hangs down and with the linkage there was no way to close it up. I took the console back out and got some sound and heat deading material and put a million layers to stop the heat from coming in and it worked pretty good. now I need to do the floors since installing headers has caused the floor to get really hot while cruising around.
I saw your post with the pics, so fresh in my mind. (I have read every post I could find on the swap as a whole.....lol.....hours & hours of reading).
My tentative plan is to form a piece of sheet metal to the tunnel. I have a gasket that came with the B&M shifter that I will use as a template to cut the main hole out & drill the bolt holes. Then tack weld it in place from underneath to the tunnel until I get it in right spot. Then spot weld it and rtv up the seams. Plan SOUNDS good in theory............see how it works out. If I would have thought about it ahead of time, would have cut the section out of an auto at the junk yard or on one of the cars being parted out online.
Last edited:
sounds good. if I would have known I would of tried something different as well.
Arrived! Yah. All other parts are on the way. Tonight, I will get front bumper off.
Ditch the tail shaft lube mod, not needed and causes leaks. Never heard of a failure there.
I will if there is a problem, but against the wall on time. Local drag strip only open for 2 more Fridays & I need to get trans installed asap to make sure it works as it should, within Paypal guidelines.
Tonight did not get as much done as I hoped. Got the tunnel spot welded & shifter fitted, but going to have to finish that up tomorrow. Need to tweak up the right side of shifter base, but that is simple. I discovered while in Lowes that a steel paint roller pan is the perfect size for the trans cooler shroud that I need for wheel well area. TBC
Last edited:
uh-hum..........still don't have this harness.............close to being an issue cuz I need it.
Got shifter installed. Ended up putting a solid weld bead all the way around the plate I made & then Por-15 ing the top & bottom. Came out well. 2nd guessing the paint pan shroud. I am thinking it is too flimsy and not going to last very long, so thinking of just using another day or two & fabricating a longer term solution. So burnt out from 60 hour, 7 day work weeks......that I am finding I am only into working on the car for a couple hours per day. Going to push forward, just not as quickly as anticipated. Still have to take care of the house. lawn, dogs, and occasionally the wife.........lol.
I did order the Lokar dipstick just to limit irritation.
I did order the Lokar dipstick just to limit irritation.
Last edited:
That's a lot of work going into that shifter! Looks really good!
I was going to use that shifter at first, but didn't want to cut on the car, so I used a Quarter Stick and a SN95 fog light switch in place of the coin holder, for my OD on/off. Even used the stock boot!
Good move on the Lokar dipstick! I used one too and routing was really simplified! I mounted it on the front of my passenger side strut tower and the JLT High Boost kind of camouflages it.
I was going to use that shifter at first, but didn't want to cut on the car, so I used a Quarter Stick and a SN95 fog light switch in place of the coin holder, for my OD on/off. Even used the stock boot!
Good move on the Lokar dipstick! I used one too and routing was really simplified! I mounted it on the front of my passenger side strut tower and the JLT High Boost kind of camouflages it.
Last edited:
Just as I am over 1/2 finished with fabricating a shroud for the part of the trans cooler that is exposed in the wheel well, I realize that radiators sit only behind grills & even just open holes, so perhaps I do not need a shroud at all. Damnit. Think I just wasted 2 days for nothing. It will let more hot air out without a shroud.
Last edited:
I cut the black plate off my B&M shifter then I slipped the stock/factory leather boot back over it, no cutting on the car, it turned out great.
If you call the Ford dealer you can get a factory deep pan with a drain plug, It was made by Ford for the U haul fleet trucks, that also worked out great! My 4R with the Whipple & race fuel is flat out fun, you will love it when its done!
If you call the Ford dealer you can get a factory deep pan with a drain plug, It was made by Ford for the U haul fleet trucks, that also worked out great! My 4R with the Whipple & race fuel is flat out fun, you will love it when its done!
Last edited:
Yes, ran into some delay issues today. Had to order Selector Arm. It had a Lokar arm in it & I am using the factory position sensor for neutral safety & reverse lights. Decided as just mentioned by PACIFICGREENSVT that I should get an upgraded pan with a drain plug, so ordered http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-transpan-auto.html . I wanted a boss provision for the temp sensor that I am installing anyhow & the fins are just a bonus to keep it cooler. Then I needed the position sensor, new filter, new gasket, & just stuck with OEM stuff through FordPartsGiant. Also recently bought a Stifflers drive shaft hoop $115 and Prothane crossmember $110, and as mentioned a couple posts back, Lokar dipstick $100. So yeah, another $360 spent today......& nearly $700 over the past week...above the plan...ugh! Never comes out as cheap in reality as initially it did on paper. Will update the list when all said & done.
I repinned the T56 harness today and incorporated the needed items from the 4r70w harness. Now I have to figure out which wires inside the trans control the trans brake, OD, & lockout. Have the pan dropped.
The oil looked clean in the trans & converter......so that is a plus. Going to make a post about trying to decipher the wiring in the pic above.
I repinned the T56 harness today and incorporated the needed items from the 4r70w harness. Now I have to figure out which wires inside the trans control the trans brake, OD, & lockout. Have the pan dropped.
The oil looked clean in the trans & converter......so that is a plus. Going to make a post about trying to decipher the wiring in the pic above.
I had this problem after picking up my car with an FB 4r70w, but it only did it once, when it was cold. For me, it was too low line pressure. Bumped up the line pressure in the tune, and the problem was solved. Hopefully you've had the issue sorted, seeing as it's now a month later, though!
OP, you're going to love the 4r70w. Looks like your build is coming along nicely. Will be looking forward to hearing your thoughts on it once done.
Getting close. Hope to wrap up wiring today or tomorrow & the project be the end of this weekend. Taking the weekend off to try to finish it. This wiring crap is a lot more tedious than I expected it would be.
I realized that the maxi fuses I tapped into under the hood are hot all the time, so have to change plans. Going to use fused hot wires coming off of the distribution box connector, to relays that are tapped to ign switched 12v, to power fan for trans cooler, trans brake, & power for the lockup & overdrive. Should have tested first. Oh well. A little more wiring now.
I realized that the maxi fuses I tapped into under the hood are hot all the time, so have to change plans. Going to use fused hot wires coming off of the distribution box connector, to relays that are tapped to ign switched 12v, to power fan for trans cooler, trans brake, & power for the lockup & overdrive. Should have tested first. Oh well. A little more wiring now.
Last edited:
Foiled again..............lol.
I discovered a couple errors in my wiring plan, & have to go back & correct them. I was trying to use the cruise off button with just tapping into it, rather than breaking it. I found 8 volts running through it when the button was not depressed. Going to rewire tonight, through a 5 prong relay & break the cruise control circuit when using the line lock or the trans brake now.
New plan:
Lower relay:
30 = Cruise Off Button ----- blue/black stripe splice -----(to the off button side)
85 = Toggle #1 12v
86 = Ground
87a = prong 30 on upper relay
87 = to line lock ground
Upper relay
30 = 87a of lower relay
85 = Toggle #2 12v
86 = Ground
87a = Blue wire/black stripe ----- where wire was splice from cruise off button ----- (this side to complete the oem circuit, not to off button)
87 = to trans brake ground
I discovered a couple errors in my wiring plan, & have to go back & correct them. I was trying to use the cruise off button with just tapping into it, rather than breaking it. I found 8 volts running through it when the button was not depressed. Going to rewire tonight, through a 5 prong relay & break the cruise control circuit when using the line lock or the trans brake now.
New plan:
Lower relay:
30 = Cruise Off Button ----- blue/black stripe splice -----(to the off button side)
85 = Toggle #1 12v
86 = Ground
87a = prong 30 on upper relay
87 = to line lock ground
Upper relay
30 = 87a of lower relay
85 = Toggle #2 12v
86 = Ground
87a = Blue wire/black stripe ----- where wire was splice from cruise off button ----- (this side to complete the oem circuit, not to off button)
87 = to trans brake ground
Just about have wiring wrapped up. Crap keeps getting in the way of finishing this at home & at work. Got trans temp gage installed into shifter bezel.
Lookin good, I just trust my B&M trans cooler w/built in fan switch. BUT I know I should get a temp gauge.
Users who are viewing this thread
