So I took my car that was having Trans issues to a local shop. The issue it was having was it was sticking in hear and when I'd get it out to shift I'd have to realy push it into the next gear. I could make it better by adjusting the cable but after a few miles it would happen again and I'd have to readjust. Well I took it there, their Trans guy drove it and he said it needed a new clutch. So I ordered an rxt, 26spline input shaft, TOB, sleeve and pilot bearing. They pulled he Trans and found out the clutch was ok but the TOB was in pieces. Of course they didn't call me untill after they installed the new clutch. Oh well now it's bulletproof right. So I picked it up and took a test drive before paying. Everything drove nice and I was happy. Well after about 100 easy miles it started making some scary noises. Like something was loose in the Trans. Also twice I was backing the car up and about halfway thru the travel it clunked really loud like the clutch totally real eased while I was still easing it out. So I took it in and let then listen to it last Thursday. They put it on the rack today and drive it in the air to listen and now he's telling me something is wrong in the back internal section of the Trans and it needs to be opened up. I said well it wasn't making any of these noises before the clutch swap and he got all defensive and said it wasn't anything they did and that we probably didn't hear it because the TOB was bad. THErE WAS NO NOISE before just hard to shift. So I feel like they screwed something up and want me to pay them to take it all back out and find the problem. I feel like they should pay for that. If I heard the noises before I'd understand but I feel like I'm getting screwed here. What do you guys think?
Am I getting screwed or does this sound legit?
- Thread starter SonicBeast
- Start date
I've taken the Trans out before so I know I can take it out and have it inspected but I paid a shitload of money to have it done so I knew it was right. And this is what happens? I mean come on
143 views and no one had any opinions?!?!
I would not take it back to that shop. It sounds like they won't own the problem, even if they caused it.
I would definitely be standing my ground, state the facts and ask to speak to the manager. If that doesn't go well ask to speak to his boss. Keep demanding to go up the chain until they work with you. If they want to remain a reputable company and keep you as a client they will work with you to come up with a mutual agreement. Just don't back down , stick to the facts.
Good luck OP!
Good luck OP!
This is one of those situations where you need to be able to trust the shop and there diagnosis and that the shop will be honest and not screw you. What should happen is they should take it apart and figure out where the noise is coming from and if it was something that they did then they clearly will or should fix it for you and if it is internal then well that would be on you. I know you say it never made a noise before but I have seen some much crap after doing this for so long that nothing surprises me anymore. They need to do whatever they need to to keep you as a customer and keep you from getting on here and trashing then but not loos there ass also. You also say the back section of the trans and that's reverse and sixth but there is a lot in there. I have rebuild a lot of I these and I'm curious where this is coming from.
All shops are there to make money..unless you go to a private mechanic..
who cares more about quality than profit...
This types of things happen...
who cares more about quality than profit...
This types of things happen...
I feel for you man. I had a situation with my 5.0 Explorer where the trans (auto) wouldn't shift because those particular units have a plastic piston inside that cocks sideways, or somehow jams up preventing them from shifting into high gear. Anyway, I pulled it, had a trans guy fix it, then put it back in (which is bitch on the very poorly designed firewall and engine bay of the Explorer). While it was out, I got the "bright idea" to replace the rear main seal, which had never leaked a drop, but I figured I may as well do it while it was apart. Bad idea! I've done many with perfect results, but for whatever reason, this one was the exception! So, of course that meant the trans had to come back out, and it was the middle of winter by then and I didn't want anything to do with tearing down AGAIN, so I took it to my local Ford dealer. Big mistake number 2! They were supposed to just change the rear main seal on a vehicle that never leaked a drop of anything prior to the trans removal. They did the job, charged me a huge amount of cash, and a week later the rear main seal was leaking AGAIN! This is where the fun begins... So, of course I went back so they could fix it, which they definitely didn't want to do because of the labor involved to r&r the trans again, so they tried to blame EVERYTHING else for the problem EXCEPT the rear main seal! They claimed it was leaking from the valve covers (which had never leaked a drop prior to their "inspection" of the rear main) and running down into the bellhousing area. Now I knew it was bullshit because I had the whole trans out of the car and had clear view of the whole rear of the engine and bellhousing area at that time. Not sure what they did, but I'm thinking the guy poked some holes in the gaskets or something because when they called me back to see "the problem", now I mysteriously had developed leaking covers that were dripping oil on the manifolds and obviously making smoke under the hood! I know for a fact that my rear main seal is still dripping oil, and now of course, so are the valve covers!:fm: I tried to insist that they pull the trans again (which was the only definitive way to prove the oil was coming from the rear main seal), but the service manager said he would only do that if I paid the entire labor bill again ($7-800) because they were supposedly positive that the oil was not coming from their repair. Sorry for the long story, but it was slightly similar to your experience of getting screwed and mine wasn't even a small shop, it was a damn Ford dealership. To answer your question, I would not go back there again and let them touch your car again. I was so pissed at my experience I told the manager I would never set foot in that place again, and not only had I been dealing with them for at least 20 years, but I was second generation to do business with them, but they lost it forever because of shady practices.
Well, just installing a clutch properly isn't going to cause problems in the trans. So I will argee with that and unfortunately some times things happen where you don't think there is a problem when there really is and you don't find out until you touch something else related. Then the problem pops up. I have had it happen and it sucks big time for both parties involved because it is more bad news and more money.
What I would have done in my case is called and told you about the TOB and asked if you wanted me to go further. Or I may have taken the clutch out and then called prior to putting the new clutch in. But 9/10 times I have run into something similar the customer just says put the new stuff back in since they bought it. that said, they should have been able to see the TOB messed up through the inspection hole and then just had you order or them order a TOB instead of everything.
The RXT has been known to make some noises at certain times during engagement and dissengagement. Sounds like you might be experiencing some of this, but sounds like it might be a bit extreme in your case.
Did you buy an adjustable pivot ball? what quadrant and firewall adjuster do you have? Sounds to me more like a possible install error with the clutch or adjustment issue.
What I would have done in my case is called and told you about the TOB and asked if you wanted me to go further. Or I may have taken the clutch out and then called prior to putting the new clutch in. But 9/10 times I have run into something similar the customer just says put the new stuff back in since they bought it. that said, they should have been able to see the TOB messed up through the inspection hole and then just had you order or them order a TOB instead of everything.
The RXT has been known to make some noises at certain times during engagement and dissengagement. Sounds like you might be experiencing some of this, but sounds like it might be a bit extreme in your case.
Did you buy an adjustable pivot ball? what quadrant and firewall adjuster do you have? Sounds to me more like a possible install error with the clutch or adjustment issue.
I called and talked to the owner and asked that he open it up to find the issue and if it was internal I would pay the bill but if it was something that went wrong on their install that they fix it. I didn't get far he kept changing the subject saying well we installed parts that YOU supplied us which most shops won't do, so we won't warranty the work. Which is total bullshit. I got everything that was needed to do this right. He kept talking about the reverse gear being the problem and I said the noise happens in every gear and it's not just reverse. So he said well let me drive it and I'll get back to you. This morning he had his service guy call me to say that after driving it he wouldn't worry about the noise and that some just make noise but that the header gasket was leaking. The header that THEY removed to drop the Trans because they refused to separate it from the bellhousomg first. He said they're backed up for two weeks at least and that I could either wait an have them fix the leak.(stupid bassani individual gaskets) or they'd give me $100 back to do it myself. I told him I'd wait and that they should fix the issue. My hope is that the leak was making some of the noise I was hearing and that it will be ok after but who knows. It doesn't explain the clunking I got in reverse those couple times. So I'm picking the car up today and scheduling a Tim to take it back. I feel like they're just trying to get rid of me tho, saying he wouldn't worry about the noise. Idk what to think. And yes I got the adjustable pivot ball and told him to start at 4.5-5mm back from stock and check the pp to TOB spacing to make sure it was right. I have a firewall adjuster and quadrant but I'm not sure on the brand, they were on the car when I bought it.
Could this happen due to input shaft end play not being in tolerance? He said he swapped the shaft and the end play was within the .002 tolerance and didn't need shimming but now I'm wondering if maybe it did and he didn't feel like doing it.
This, and also could be an issue with the actual install of the input shaft as well. According to Bob hanlon there is a right way and a wrong way. I can ask him for details next time I talk to him this week... He's a certified tremec warranty/ overhaul tech over here in PA.
What type of shop is this? Have they worked on these cars before?
Who the hell in their right mind would pull the header off when you can separate the trans from the bell and remove it? Its much easier than removing the header that is for sure. I would bet my ass they just said that and never touched the header at all and just charged you for it. There would be no reason not to separate the trans from the bell
Who the hell in their right mind would pull the header off when you can separate the trans from the bell and remove it? Its much easier than removing the header that is for sure. I would bet my ass they just said that and never touched the header at all and just charged you for it. There would be no reason not to separate the trans from the bell
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