Aluminator 4.6 Stroker with Procharger D1SC

[Brutal Metal]

I hear you.

He saw a 40 rwhp difference when he removed the pipe and filter. I don't even think his pipe extended all the way to the fender. He said his temps didn't change that much after the change.

Sorry I haven't seen that play out on our dyno with customer cars? Was his blower spinning hard with boost over 20lbs?... 40 rw with a cone filter off the blower over my 4" MPH powerpipe with a 10" S&B Powerstack filter? I might for the hell of it take the powerpipe off and do a pull with no filter and see for myself... Never considered it a restriction street driving.

 

[Brutal Metal]

 

[Brutal Metal]

I picked up the valve covers from the powder coater earlier today. Candy red it is.

Those look Awesome, I prefer this shade over the blue...

 

[JeronimoJC]

Sorry I haven't seen that play out on our dyno with customer cars? Was his blower spinning hard with boost over 20lbs?... 40 rw with a cone filter off the blower over my 4" MPH powerpipe with a 10" S&B Powerstack filter? I might for the hell of it take the powerpipe off and do a pull with no filter and see for myself... Never considered it a restriction street driving.

Thanks for all your input. Good observation on the boost level. This was a Novi 2200 at 19lbs. A 40 RWHP difference is pretty significant so there may be something here to learn from. I also searched the internet to see if others were seeing a power gain by removing the filter and/or pipe and I found a few cases. The most extreme was a Camaro guy. Could be just a very bad filter experience, but I'll let you judge for yourself.




It would be nice to see more dyno runs comparing the two setups. I am by no means suggesting people should drive their cars without a filter, but if the power pipe and filters are a restriction at high boost levels, then at least we can start looking into other options.

I forgot to say, in my case, by installing a larger pipe and using the 30 degree elbow, I hope to be able to use a larger filter, which seems to be the largest obstruction. I don't know about filter quality, but I'll be looking into it.

 

[01yellercobra]

If the filter is collapsing then it wasn't able to flow enough CFM to support the blower. Air filters do have CFM ratings. A properly sized filter and inlet pipe should pose little to no restriction. I was at 15psi with a T trim and I didn't lose any boost when I installed a short pipe and filter. I never ran my F1A without a filter. But I was seeing 19psi so I don't think there was much restriction on the inlet side.

 

[JeronimoJC]

If the filter is collapsing then it wasn't able to flow enough CFM to support the blower. Air filters do have CFM ratings. A properly sized filter and inlet pipe should pose little to no restriction. I was at 15psi with a T trim and I didn't lose any boost when I installed a short pipe and filter. I never ran my F1A without a filter. But I was seeing 19psi so I don't think there was much restriction on the inlet side.

Am I understanding you correctly in that you ran the T trim without a filter and you got 15psi. Then you installed a short pipe and filter and didn't lose any boost? This is what I am after.

Any chance you can share a picture? Also, what filter are you using?

Selecting the proper filter is certainly important, but sometimes you just don't have the space for the correct size filter, which is one of the reasons why I am considering the short pipe.

 

[01yellercobra]

Yes you are. I don't have a pic of the T trim set up anymore. I must've deleted it when I went to the F1A. I did find it easier to extend the inlet pipe to the fenderwell. There's more room in there to run a bigger filter. At least on our cars. The filter I had on the T-trim was kind of shoved in and hit the hood when it was closed.

 

[FedExed]

The stock headers will cost you a significant amount of power! You have added cubes and a blower to get the air going in, you need better exhaust to get it out.

 

[JeronimoJC]

I am sure you at right. Two things keep me from making this upgrade. One is money. On this car changing heads also requires changing mid-pipe. The other thing is I don't want a loud exhaust.

How much power am I sacrificing is mostly a guess. I wish I knew so I could at least make a more educated decision.

 

[JeronimoJC]

Keeping this thread updated. I took Monday off with the idea of swapping engines over a three day weekend. I was able to drive the car to work on Tuesday so I am pretty stocked I pulled this off. I wouldn't have done it without a bunch of you guys from another car forum answering my ongoing questions and the good Lord.

A 3-day engine swap for a noob like me was a bit of a stretch. I was sore, tired and worried things wouldn't work. I finally tried starting the car at 2am. It was amazing how quickly the car started.

The larger displacement, Cobra 98 cams, stall converter and rear cat delete did something alright. The car feels more raw. More machine and less sedan like. I am taking a break before I upgrade to a return fuel system and before I install the blower. Below are a few pics.

And the finish product.

 

[Brutal Metal]

Good job and smart idea upgrading your balancer..

 

[JeronimoJC]

I finally started purchasing the last few parts (intercooler, piping, BOV, etc). Mounting the intercooler was actually much easier than I had expected. It fit very nicely behind the bumper, but had no idea what I was going to do to support it. I was trying to avoid welding of any kind. I ended up finding a couple of Simpson StrongTie 4x4 framing brackets that required a bit of moding and worked out fairly well. In fact, one of the holes in the bracket lined up perfectly with a frame bolt on the car. All I had to do was enlarge the hole, and use the existing bolt and nut! I used another hole on the bracket to screw a sheet metal screw to the frame of the car. Here are a few pictures.

Next I started playing with intercooler piping. The CXRacing piping kit I bought comes with two ‘U’ shaped pipes. I had hoped the distance between the legs of these 'U' sections was large enough to go from the intercooler to the engine bay side of the radiator. No such luck. It tried heating and bending one of the ‘U’ sections to open it up, but didn’t get too far. So I ended up cutting the ‘U’ to fit. Below are some pictures of the passenger side. I think I’ll end up welding the BOV fitting to the large 90 degree elbow that wraps around the radiator frame.

Speaking of BOVs, I decided to go with a 38.5mm Tial QRJ (got it for under $193). This is really a bypass valve. This newer model has a larger outlet than the Tial QR. Most likely I’ll end up connecting a hose to the outlet size only to muffle the sound. Here are a couple of pics of the QRJ (left) compared to the ‘Q’, which is the 50mm BOV valve.

I also relocated the coolant reservoir (different reservoir) to make room for the blower.

Next I worked on flipping the stock fan 180 degrees, also to make room for the blower. I ended up making some aluminum mounting brackets. However, I wasn’t happy with the result. Part of the problem is I am using a larger elbow and larger inlet piping, than most use. So I ended up trimming a bit of extra meat from the fan housing. Yeah, it doesn’t look good, but it will all be covered by the blower and piping and I can always get a different fan later. For now my goal is to make things work.

Then of course I took the blower and piping apart so I can drive the car to work. This is the beauty of working on your dd.

 

[procharged 99]

Any updates how are things going.

 

[99redwj]

Looks good so far!

 

[04DeadShort]

Those cam covers are beautiful. Where did you get the new primary chain guides at?