Aluminator 4.6 Stroker with Procharger D1SC

[JeronimoJC]

Hey guys, a while ago I took on a project way above my skill level so I thought it would be a good idea to post this project in a couple of sites hoping to get some advice and opinions. My goal is to supercharge my 04 Mercury Marauder. With this I also decided to get a forged short block. I ended up going with the Aluminator A46X. This is a 4.6 block stroked to 5.0. Here is what I have in mind:

1) RWHP: Somewhere near the 600 RWHP range. Or whatever this setup can get me.

2) Engine and Compression: Aluminator 46X Stroked to 5.0L, .02” overbore, 3.75” stroke, 9.6:1 CR

3) Amount of boost: 16 to 18 PSI

4) Type of Blower: D1SC

5) Pulley Combo: About a 3.55” SC Pulley, 10% OD Innovators West Balancer – 8 rib pulleys

6) Tensioner type: 3-bolt tensioner with 98 Cobra timing cover

7) Heads: ‘C’ heads with a 3 angle valve job

8) Cams: 98 Cobra cams advanced to 113/112

9) What intake: Marauder stock, which is the same as Mach1, but oriented differently

10) Intercooler: Air to Air Treadstone 1035, 50mm BOV from Raceparts Solutions

11) Exhaust Combo: Rear cat delete, Borla Pro XS, stock manifolds, which are slightly smaller than Cobra/Mach1 manifolds

12) Fuel: 93 Octane – Return style fuel system with Walbro 450LPH fuel pump, SCT BA-5000, 60 LB fuel injectors.

Other mods worth mentioning: The car already has 4.10 gears and I’ll have a 2,800 to 3,000 RPM stall converter from PI. The transmission is the 4R75W. Unfortunately I won’t be able to build it this time around, but I do have 4R70W in my garage that I intend to build soon. Here are a few pictures:


Engine Removal. About a year ago I wrecked my ’03 Marauder. I bought it back from auction and parted it out, but kept the engine and transmission. So I started with a complete engine that had 90K miles in it and in great condition.

 

[JeronimoJC]

Engine Disassembly

 

[JeronimoJC]

Engine Assembly
As mentioned above, I bought an Aluminator short block stroked to 5.0L

I got a 3 angle valve job on these 'C' heads (Marauder stock heads) and installed new valve seals.

 

[JeronimoJC]

Cam Degreeing.

Here are two links that helped me a lot. The FIRST ONE is on cam degreeing in general. The SECOND ONE, courtesy of nasvt, is on how to use the secondary Cloyes adjustable gears. Also, here is a video on how to remove the rocker arms with a screw driver. [video=youtube_share;mbqKWzhpsHQ]http://youtu.be/mbqKWzhpsHQ[/video]

I installed Cobra 98 intake cams and advanced them to an Intake LC of 113 and an exhaust LC of 112. The exhaust cams are the stock cams, which are identical to the ’03 and ’04 Cobra and Mach 1 cams.

First I installed the Cobra 98 intake cams without degreeing to see where they were at in their stock position. I also attempted to check piston to valve clearance (twice) using modeling clay, but I didn't do a good job first placing the clay and then pealing off the clay and didn't want to install/remove heads and timing components again. I didn't get a good reading here. I did PTV clearance check later.

I used Trick Flow adjusting gears (at the crank) mostly to bring the left and right exhaust cams to the same degree and used Cloyes adjustable gears (at the cams) to advance the intake cams.



These are the gear parts I bought.


I ended up with the intake cams at a 113 LC and the exhaust cams at 112. HERE is a good web page to plot your cam positions. This is what mine looks like.



I went cheap on the degreeing tools. I used a home-made cardboard degreeing wheel and Harbor Freight tools.

I also changed the timing chain guides

 

[JeronimoJC]

Return Fuel System
I am working on a return system. I like the idea of keeping the stock fuel rails. First, I think one of my biggest limiting factors is the amount of boost/HP that can safely be produced with pump gas. I think the fuel rails are pretty close to that limiting factor so I’d like to give this a shot. Second, I prefer the stock look.

Doing research on how to keep the stock fuel rails led me to the “dead head” fuel return system, which I found appealing. Later, this developed into a bit of a hybrid.

I’ll be using the old fuel line as a return line and I am installing a new -8 feed line. I took sections of the evap line from a donor car and used a 37 degree flaring tool to install AN fittings. This gives me a bit of the stock look I prefer and saved me a bit of money.

I will be using a Walbro 450 LPH with 60LB fuel injectors. I've done the math and convinced myself this will support well over 600RWHP at the wheels. Below is a picture of the fuel hat drilled for the feed line. The old feed line will become the return line.

My tuner mentioned he’d like me to keep the FRPS. Just yesterday I found a good thread that addresses wiring the FPDM in a manner such that the fuel pump can be primed with the engine off, just like the stock fuel system. The post mentions installing a toggle switch to be able to run the pump continuously when the engine is turned off. I’ve decided this is what I’d like to do and I placed an order for some parts today.

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UDPDATE:
I started paying more attention at how hot the fuel rails get after just a short drive and I am starting to lean more towards going with a "dead head" return fuel system to avoid hot fuel. It seems hot fuel causes some of the good stuff in the fuel to evaporate and ultimate reduces the fuel's octane levels. If I can further reduce the chances of having engine knock by avoiding hot fuel, then why not do that. Here's a schematic of what I have in mind.



I also installed the regulator (without plumbing it) at a location that I thought was great, but again, after a short drive, the regulator was pretty hot, just from absorbing heat from the engine. I ended up moving it more towards the passenger side as shown below. This helped, but I think I'll move it one more time. And if I end up going with a "dead head" I'll need to get the -8 AN regulator instead of this -6 AN.



Here is how I modified the stock fuel rails with a "tee" to feed the two rails in parallel. BTW, I had a shop weld the AN fittings to the stock rails.

 

[JeronimoJC]

Cooling Mod
A couple of days ago I began installing a cooling mod. Here is how some Marauder folks are installing this. I’ll be doing the same.

Removing the freeze plugs was easy. Some epoxy fell inside the holes, but I was able to vacuum it out easily.

One of the cooling mod fittings didn’t fit properly. I had to grind a small corner of the intake to make it fit.

I didn’t like the fittings just sitting there with RTV so I came up with a way of holding them down. I haven’t taken a picture of this yet, but I’ll fix that soon.

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UDPDATE:

Here is a picture of how I ended up securing the cooling mod fittings so they don't move around if I bump them. I also used some Permatex gasket maker of course.

 

[JeronimoJC]

One question I have is Would I be able to start the car after I install the new short block stroker without making changes to the tune?

Because this is my daily driver, my plan is to limit down-time as much as possible. To do this, I'd like to swap the engine in one weekend. I would like to drive the car for a few hundred miles to properly break-in the engine. Once I know things are running properly I'd like to finish installing the return fuel system. And again, once I am confident this is working, then I'll install the supercharger, at which point I will need a base tune to drive to the speed shop and get the car dyno tuned.

Different people have given me different opinions on whether or not I'll be able to drive the car immediately after swapping engines without making tune changes. I don't see why not since at that point I'll still have a stock fuel system, a CAI that is already in the current tune, the same intake, the same heads, etc.

What do you guys think?

 

[01yellercobra]

Keep your current MAF and injectors and you'll be able to start it. It'll probably be a little lean at WOT. But if you have the option in your hand held you can add a little fuel to make up for it.

 

[JeronimoJC]

Thank you.

 

[JeronimoJC]

I picked up the valve covers from the powder coater earlier today. Candy red it is.

 

[cbrown9064]

You asked "will this set up make 600rwhp?" My best guess is, " I think it is doable. "

I am wondering if 60lb injectors will be too small. You may be pushing the duty cycle. Don't know, but that is what my gut is telling me. Do a search on duty cycle and do the calc to see where you fall. I think the BA5000 is plenty.

Like slo said, it will run with stock injectors and MAF. Change MAF and/or injectors and the answer is no. Put the blower on and the answer is no.

How are you going to tune? Thought about getting a Quarterhorse and BE?

Finally, "a project beyond your skill level"? Seems to me like you have pretty darn good skills and a appetite to learn. Doesn't seem beyond your skill level...

 

[01yellercobra]

If he's running gas the 60's will be enough. If he's running E85 he'll need 80's.

 

[JeronimoJC]

Hey guys, thanks for the input. As a side note, I updated post #5. It looks like I'll be switching to a "dead head" fuel return system.

Regarding the injectors, I also thought the 60lb fuel injectors were border line, but I ran some calcs with some aggressive numbers (see below) and I agree with Slo984now's take.

How are you going to tune? Thought about getting a Quarterhorse and BE?

Finally, "a project beyond your skill level"? Seems to me like you have pretty darn good skills and a appetite to learn. Doesn't seem beyond your skill level...

Thanks man! I guess I like learning stuff.

As for tuning, I was thinking after I install the supercharger I would get a base tune from my local tuner so I can safely drive the car from my house to the speed shop and then we would do a dyno tune. I would love to learn to tune my own car, but I think that would be way down the road.

Thanks again for the input. I am thinking I'll swap engines next weekend. Wish me luck.

 

[chief455]

This is great thread, and getting positive response on this forum
you are showing skills very capable of researching and performing the tasks. nice work, and congrats on geting an Aluminator - I've been told maybe late February for one.

 

[JeronimoJC]

Thank you. There's lots of good info on these sites, and some very knowledgeable guys willing to share what they know.

Your Aluminator may show up earlier than expected. I was surprised with mine after they told me it would be delivered weeks later.

Are you getting a short block or a long block?

 

[Brutal Metal]

You'll for sure make 600 at 18lbs, Beastly setup..

 

[JeronimoJC]

Power Pipe
Someone pointed out he's observed a significant power difference when doing a dyno run with a power pipe and filter and without. Not that I want to go without a filter, but it makes sense to give some attention to the piping and filter before the blower. At this point, I am of the opinion it is best to have a short and efficient inlet pipe even if the filter ends in the engine bay, than to have a longer power pipe sucking cold air.

Below is a setup I'll be copying with a few changes. This shows a 5" to 4" reducing elbow attached to the blower and a short 5" pipe and filter. The filter looks a bit small, but I think that's just because the pipe is so big.






My Procharger inlet is 3.75", but I was able to clamp a 5" to 4" reducing elbow on the blower inlet. I will also use a 5" diameter 30 degree elbow instead of a 5" straight pipe. This will allow me to get away from the radiator, which will give me more room for a larger filter. Here's what the assembly looks like right now.




This is the 30 degree elbow I purchased.

 

[JeronimoJC]

Getting Ready for Engine Swap

I am still waiting for a set of valve cover gaskets. Ordered the wrong one the first time. Once I install the new gasket set I can finish bolting the valve covers and I think that's all.

I bought a 96-98 Cobra (6-rib) serpentine belt and routed it like this. It fit nicely. Marauders have the Mach1 timing cover and single bolt tensioner. I switched to a Cobra timing cover so I can use the 3 bolt tensioner. I'll keep this belt and configuration for a few hundred miles until I install the supercharger and an 8-rib belt.



I also installed NGK 4177 (TR6) spark plugs. One thing I'd like to learn to do is "read" the spark plugs. I suspect I'll be changing a few spark plugs as I learn this so I decided to not use anti-seize. Also, I may go to colder plugs later. We'll see.



Here are a few shots of the engine without the supercharger. I plugged much of the wiring harness and some of the hoses. I realize I may have to disconnect a few things later on, but that's fine. This helped me remember where things go.







When I add the supercharger I intend to switch to a Thump Racing Tensioner. I am in the market for one if anyone knows of a used one for sale.

 

[Brutal Metal]

I'm not a fan of the filter in the engine bay but that's just me... How much HP is this dyno guy claiming for a powerpipe in fender versus a filter attached to the blower head unit?

 

[JeronimoJC]

I hear you.

He saw a 40 rwhp difference when he removed the pipe and filter. I don't even think his pipe extended all the way to the fender. He said his temps didn't change that much after the change.