Alternator issues

[Excessv]

OK I my 03 has Cobra has 23,300 miles on it and the alternator has started to fail. I have a 2.73 upper and a 4lb lower, I don't have an aftermarket alternator pulley installed currently. My question is what alternator pulley should I be running as well as the best alternator.

I have been reading threads about the Mechman and the Start and Charge. I don't want to use something that I will have to keep changing out. Also not trying to break the back but understand you get what you pay for.
Any advise would be great.

 

[MG0h3]

My car came with a Nations on it.

I like it because the regulator is external/remote so it is removed from the major heat.

 

[jrgoffin]

These alternators just take a beating due the heat. To make it worse, they are just weak V-6 alternators with an 8-rib pulley and a different post on the back. Mine started to go downhill at over 21,000 miles and I had a local shop rebuild it to 160A (from stock 105A), but it needed a smaller pulley in order to charge. In his opinion, the larger pulleys inhibit full charge which in turn weakens the battery and then you are stuck in a vicious cycle.

Despite what some will say, alternators are very easy to rebuild, so don't be afraid to tackle it yourself if you don't want to spend huge coin on one like the Mechman!

Here's a link with some good info:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/235857-Terminator-quot-Alternator-101-quot

 

[TRBO VNM]

My car came with a Nations on it.

I like it because the regulator is external/remote so it is removed from the major heat.

Just installed one on someone's car. Battery light flickers up top, but that is it. Volts look great through whole log. Sent back to Nations and they said alternator is fine. Well, something designed in the alt is causing it. It doesn't do it with a factory alternator and there is a brand new belt on it that is a little on the tight side. So even if there is any slip, it is very very minimal.

 

[MG0h3]

Just installed one on someone's car. Battery light flickers up top, but that is it. Volts look great through whole log. Sent back to Nations and they said alternator is fine. Well, something designed in the alt is causing it. It doesn't do it with a factory alternator and there is a brand new belt on it that is a little on the tight side. So even if there is any slip, it is very very minimal.

I think I remember you mentioning this in another thread and that you did the cable upgrades, so what Im about to say may be irrelevant, especially since the problem wasnt there before.

I noticed dimming dash/headlights at high rpm, but only under heavy load. I assumed it had something to do with the draw from the BAP, but I admit I dont have any knowledge of what kind of draw the system causes and I dont have a meter that will measure that kind of amperage.

At any rate, I added a 2 gauge cable from the ALT to the junction post at the fuse block where the cable to the BAP links to the BAT POS. Fixed the dimming headlights and I swear it runs harder up top but you know how that goes.

 

[TRBO VNM]

yeah, I have a 4 gauge ground from frame to battery ground, 0/1 gauge cable from alternator to positive post on battery and an upgraded block ground. Nations told me not to upgrade the wire from alternator to distribution block and just do it to the battery.