Alternator help

[xXAzureMach1Xx]

well i had to drive the car to work yesterday and its a 15 min drive and the alt was charging for about 10 mins and it seemed to be when the car got warmed up it would start to fail and did the same thing on the way home. had the battery check and load tested and it was good. Im thinkin it does have something to do with the heat :shrug:.

Should i put the 3.2 pulley on it again? it only lasted like 300 miles with it but i dont know if it was just the alt or had something to do with the pulley.

 

[THE_EVIL_TW1N]

well i had to drive the car to work yesterday and its a 15 min drive and the alt was charging for about 10 mins and it seemed to be when the car got warmed up it would start to fail and did the same thing on the way home. had the battery check and load tested and it was good. Im thinkin it does have something to do with the heat :shrug:.

Should i put the 3.2 pulley on it again? it only lasted like 300 miles with it but i dont know if it was just the alt or had something to do with the pulley.

I added a cooling duct from the empty hole next to the fog light straight to the ALT. Seems to have helped a little. Just by observing (nothing scientific by any means) seems to have improved charging by ~.1-.2v overall. When on the freeway and the engine is cool, it's at about 14.3-14.4 whereas before it was at 14.1-14.2. And when fully warmed, it's at about 13.7-13.8 now whereas it was at about 13.6 before. I really should have datalogged though.

 

[nolyaw]

I added a cooling duct from the empty hole next to the fog light straight to the ALT. Seems to have helped a little. Just by observing (nothing scientific by any means) seems to have improved charging by ~.1-.2v overall. When on the freeway and the engine is cool, it's at about 14.3-14.4 whereas before it was at 14.1-14.2. And when fully warmed, it's at about 13.7-13.8 now whereas it was at about 13.6 before. I really should have datalogged though.

Don't you know that hole is for brake cooling ducts???? :nono:

 

[03mgtermi]

till "Start N Charge" starts selling alts again, I think your best bet is to just buy an autozone alt with lifetime warranty. This way you can just keep changing them out when you need a new alt. for free. Just a hassle. That's what I do.

lol, im changing my alternator as we speak.....duralast reman with the warranty is the way to go. also, i'm keeping the core to refurbish myself if i can. this is at least the third alternator going on the car.

Don't you know that hole is for brake cooling ducts???? :nono:

this! i have brake ducts and i think installing a 'Y' or 'T' in the brake duct and routing it to the alt would be an excellent idea!

 

[silverserpant]

From reading this post about the heat gave me an idea. On semi trucks the altenators have a removable fan blade that sits behind the pulley on the shaft, I am gonna grab a old one and see what I can rig up.

I am still on all O.E. Charging system so my question is are all Ford altenators the same other than the mounting ears or is there to many differances that I need to find a cobra one to test the fitment on the shaft and housing?

 

[silverserpant]

From reading this post about the heat gave me an idea. On semi trucks the altenators have a removable fan blade that sits behind the pulley on the shaft, I am gonna grab a old one and see what I can rig up.

I am still on all O.E. Charging system so my question is are all Ford altenators the same other than the mounting ears or is there to many differances that I need to find a cobra one to test the fitment on the shaft and housing?

 

[03yellow]

Duralast only makes a 110 and 90 amp alt. They do make a 130 amp alt but only fits the Mach 1. J don't care what they told you it does not make 130 amps. It should last one or 2 months.

lol, im changing my alternator as we speak.....duralast reman with the warranty is the way to go. also, i'm keeping the core to refurbish myself if i can. this is at least the third alternator going on the car.




this! i have brake ducts and i think installing a 'Y' or 'T' in the brake duct and routing it to the alt would be an excellent idea!

 

[xXAzureMach1Xx]

Lookin online and found this.

QuikCool System Dual/Remote Rectifier Alternator System, Dual output Alternator, High Output Alternator, 200 Amp Alternator Upgrade kit

Im at the point i will try anything and if it is the heat killin the alt which im pretty sure it is then this should fix it.

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

The alternator seems to perform well when cold, but when hot it fails miserably.

You're right about that. In addition to your others ideas I've often wondered if an alt bracket made out of carbon fiber or something less heat conductive would also help. That bracket has to be pulling a lot of heat right out of the head into the alt.

 

[THE_EVIL_TW1N]

Don't you know that hole is for brake cooling ducts???? :nono:

when my brakes start going out every 6 mo's / 5,000 miles, I'll reroute those airducts :idea: :lol1: