ALL 9 & 10 Second Drivers Get in Here

[KingCobra10Sec]

Yesterday I test drove my turbo cobra @ 13psi,

my tires are breaking loose at 5K in 3rd gear, here are the following tires
I will go with


Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels

Note: I want to use there tires on the street, I will get Full Out Slicks for the Drag strip in spring time.

Also my suspension setup goes as follows

I have a solid rear axle, stock diff, moser steel splines. 3.27 gears
upr lower control arms (drag style) and granatelli upper control arms
I have no sway bar because the stock GT sway bar cannot be used with these lower control arms.

He is what I am thinking to help my suspension issue


MM Panhard Bar, 1999-04 Mustang GT, std. aluminum rod

Maximum Motorsports :: The Leader In Mustang Performance Suspension


MM HD Torque Arm, 1979-04 Mustang, 8.8" & rect. subframe con.



Do you think this will solve my issue.

I would be pissed if I spent 30K on this project and crash due to a non properly setup suspension

HELP PLEASE

 

[gnxs]

I may make a bit less power than you, but my 295/45/17 MT DRs will hold traction in 2nd gear IN THE SUMMER. There aren't many tires that'll hold 600+ rwhp when the road temps are in the 30's-40's or colder.

On a cold day in Winter I've spun them at 60 mph in 4th gear, but there is hope when the roads get warm in Summer. With a turbo you might make quite a bit more power than me, but with your setup your power delivery might also be a little less abrupt (which should help). Good Luck, if your not making 700+rwhp you have a chance at getting some grip.

 

[MVD]

He is what I am thinking to help my suspension issue...........

Do you think this will solve my issue.

What issue? All you did was talk about parts but never mention what is wrong with the car.

 

[KingCobra10Sec]

What issue? All you did was talk about parts but never mention what is wrong with the car.

Sorry about that, my car was spinning in 3rd Gear at 5k, and the rear suspension does not feel safe to me. On break in tune right now, so I know
tires will break loose at 7k in 1st and 2nd.

 

[KingCobra10Sec]

Also I talked to a tech name JASON from MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS, he recommended the PANHARD Bar and the Torque Box. he also stated I should go back to stock upper control arms with bushings in the mean time.

 

[2bscrewed]

These made me sell my MT's instantly.
http://www.mandhtires.com/store.php?crn=70&action=show&show_products_mode=cat_click
You wont beleive how much better they hook than MT DR's.

 

[Scottyk]

Just use the aftermarket control arms, theres hundreds and hundreds of people running stock suspension locations with good control arms running into the 7's, might want a antiroll bar!!! you definetly dont need a panhard bar unless you plan on road racing, all that is lateral support for the rear end. If you are worried about safety what are you doing with a stock DIFF and no mention of C-clip eliminators, that is actually not nhra legal to run that fast without C-clip eliminators anyway.. Get some adjustable shocks and struts, put slicks on it and tune with that to get the best 60'. Without some type of power limiting done, theres not many cars that will hook on a unprepped street with a 17" tire, good luck.

 

[Scottyk]

I would imagine running a panhard hard with solid bushings in all your control arms would create one hell of a bind as well. The panhard bar will cause your axle to move laterally "a very little bit" as your suspension travels up and down, and that will be fighting against your control arms creating a bind..

 

[KingCobra10Sec]

Just use the aftermarket control arms, theres hundreds and hundreds of people running stock suspension locations with good control arms running into the 7's, might want a antiroll bar!!! you definetly dont need a panhard bar unless you plan on road racing, all that is lateral support for the rear end. If you are worried about safety what are you doing with a stock DIFF and no mention of C-clip eliminators, that is actually not nhra legal to run that fast without C-clip eliminators anyway.. Get some adjustable shocks and struts, put slicks on it and tune with that to get the best 60'. Without some type of power limiting done, theres not many cars that will hook on a unprepped street with a 17" tire, good luck.

I have C-Clip eliminators, I have adjustable shocks from tokico, and struts from bilstein (cobra r spec)
Power is almost limitless right now, for street I am lowering boost to 9psi and DD, 18psi for track racing. 23psi on race gas at track (probably will only do once in my life).

 

[mysticalsnake]

i realize i wasn't making the power that you're talking about (468hp/461tq) but with the 275/50/17 M&H D/R i was driving my car just like at the drag strip while i was on the street for launching, and with the tires at 28 psi and leaving at 4500 i was bogging the holy hell out of my car. raised to 31psi and still launching at 4250-4500 i was leaving perfect nearly. first time at the strip left pressure at 21 and launched at 4500, bogged really badly on fully stock IRS and still cut mid 1.7x 60' times.

 

[Scottyk]

So you are looking for traction on the street then? Make sure you stay realistic here, with the amount of power your making thats going to be pretty tough. If your street racing I would recomend some 15" rims and slicks or cheater slicks "quick times or ET streets" and maybe a splash of VHT during the burnout. Take weight off the front and put it in the rear anyway possible. the hardest hooking street car I been in was a fox with stock upper and lower control arms "even bushings" with slicks on it, there is so much movement and slop that it cushions the shock to the tires. but it hooked so hard the rear end would twist and travel so much that universal joint would literally scrape the trans tunnel and throw sparks. hopefully this helps some. Cobras are a heavy car to get moving keep in mind

 

[YOULOST]

i have those tires in a 315/30/18 and i can fry them all the way till the end of 4th gear in warm weather... Make sure you get something with a little sidewall to it. I have seen this rear setup on lots of mustangs at the track and it is quite impressive!!!! If i had a SRA it's what I would get!

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/ford.htm

 

[98 N/A 4V]

theres not many cars that will hook on a unprepped street with a 17" tire, good luck.

300lbs of ballast and she'll hook. :-D j/k.

To the OP ditch the grantelli uppers. Their welds look like it was done with a bic ligher and a coat hanger.
You NEED a anti-roll bar if no rear sway bar. You launch hard and you'll be into the wall for sure.
Are the CA's double adjustable? Spherical or poly's? Be sure to set the PA accordingly.
Stiffen up the rear shocks

Oh and your c-clips will eventually leak. If this is a street/strip car you don't need them. Race car yes.

 

[STAMPEDE3]

Just use the aftermarket control arms, theres hundreds and hundreds of people running stock suspension locations with good control arms running into the 7's, might want a antiroll bar!!! you definetly dont need a panhard bar unless you plan on road racing, all that is lateral support for the rear end. If you are worried about safety what are you doing with a stock DIFF and no mention of C-clip eliminators, that is actually not nhra legal to run that fast without C-clip eliminators anyway.. Get some adjustable shocks and struts, put slicks on it and tune with that to get the best 60'. Without some type of power limiting done, theres not many cars that will hook on a unprepped street with a 17" tire, good luck.

I would imagine running a panhard hard with solid bushings in all your control arms would create one hell of a bind as well. The panhard bar will cause your axle to move laterally "a very little bit" as your suspension travels up and down, and that will be fighting against your control arms creating a bind..

Actually the stock uppers are the way to go if the car is driven a lot on the street. Aftermarket uppers cause more bind than anything else. The panhard bar also helps it launch straight and the car drive easier.
The panhard bar will also help reduce bind slightly.

Most of the big dogs run them and more so run a true 4-link which will require it.

To the OP, put the stock uppers back on for now.
Then Go with the TQ/arm and PH bar set up.
You will love it.

 

[BlckBox04]

cold weather=no traction, plain and simple. wait until it gets warmer out and you'll feel more then comfortable

 

[Ronias]

with the panhard bar and torque arm it eliminates the uppers. u take em off

 

[STAMPEDE3]

with the panhard bar and torque arm it eliminates the uppers. u take em off

Yes but he doesn't have that yet.

 

[BADASS03SVT]

cold weather=no traction, plain and simple. wait until it gets warmer out and you'll feel more then comfortable

I agree...dont waste your money on all of that imo. I have had almost every rear susp setup out there and in the end I went back to good ol GT springs and upr control arms.

 

[STAMPEDE3]

I don't know if I'd call that a waste of $$$.

That is a great set up for street/track or anything.

 

[Doc GTO]

Good tire!!!, especially for an 18 inch wheel. If you have 17s then the regular MT DR or the Hoosier DOT radial.