Alignment Specs
- Thread starter Aereon
- Start date
My advise,take it somewhere else!
SLEEPERSTATUS
Banned
+1000
Hmm...please expand OP
whats going on is, my friend's buddy normally takes care of my alignment, but the guy is unavailable for another 2 months(vacation). I'm a bit strapped for cash atm but need an alignment after a soloII event. This shop has a flawless track record but is just inexperienced with mustangs that have IRS's. They are a bit confused as to why my GT has an IRS. lols, but that aside, the main tech just told me that it won't be too much of an issues for him to align it to stock spec, but if I needed anything else done he wouldn't be able to help much as he doesn't have too much experience with it. I had a printout of what the last time I had it aligned was but I can't seem to find it, I know what I want for the front but the IRS is still a somewhat new territory for me. I need a good setup for just street atm as I won't be hitting any soloII's/autox's anytime soon and if I was, I'd wait till I either find the sheet or the original shop is available to do it.
Sorry for the long read guys, thanks for the input.
Here you go.
It is your decision on camber as to how agressive you want to go. These settings (camber in particular) are for the track.
-1 to -1.5 degrees will be fine on the street for the rear.
-2 or more on the front will wear the front tires on the street, but will be good for your event.
-1 on the front will be ok for the street.
Front -
Toe 1/16 out
Camber - -2 to -2.5 degrees
Caster - as much as you can get
Rear-
Toe - 1/16 in
Camber - -1 to -1.5 degrees.
It is your decision on camber as to how agressive you want to go. These settings (camber in particular) are for the track.
-1 to -1.5 degrees will be fine on the street for the rear.
-2 or more on the front will wear the front tires on the street, but will be good for your event.
-1 on the front will be ok for the street.
Front -
Toe 1/16 out
Camber - -2 to -2.5 degrees
Caster - as much as you can get
Rear-
Toe - 1/16 in
Camber - -1 to -1.5 degrees.
Last edited:
Any shop worth it's salt is going to have a good alignment machine that has a computer that stores the factory alignment specs for everything made since 1980 (or older) possibly.
Unless you do something extra ordinary with your car, I suggest you just have it aligned to factory specs. If you don't have it aligned to factory specs and use your own specs, they will not stand behind their work. So if your car drives like crap when they are done, too bad, so sad! :idea:
FWIW
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
Unless you do something extra ordinary with your car, I suggest you just have it aligned to factory specs. If you don't have it aligned to factory specs and use your own specs, they will not stand behind their work. So if your car drives like crap when they are done, too bad, so sad! :idea:
FWIW
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
I had my car aligned to the factory specs that were in the shops computer. I have it lowered with H&R Race springs with no iso's in front and only lower iso's in rear. The car drives good but it looks like the top of the rear tires sit in alot. Is this normal on an irs car?
A number of things could be going on here. First off, did you get a print out of your car's specs post alignment. Post it here so we can cross reference it. Looks can be deceiving, but tire wear is usually the best indication of camber setting that's too aggressive for the street. See if you see anything abnormal, or get a tread depth gauge and compare the inside to the outside.
Users who are viewing this thread
