After Cat O2s...do I have to have 2??? Getting a code...

[Jonny00GT]

I was told I could splice one harness into the other and just use one O2 since I'm just running a turbo with single 3" down pipe to cat to muffler and out the back a la V-6 style. Problem is I'm getting the codes P0141 and P0161 for preheat malfunction to the down stream O2 left and right.

I'm wondering if the PCM is sending too much voltage causeing the codes or if it burned up the O2 in only a month?

Should I have just spliced in the signal wires to the other one and connected the power and ground together? (which ever ones are the signal wires...

Will a MIL Eliminator fix the problem?

Anyone have an idea how to proceed to get this code to go away? I'm not getting a bad cat code so I should be able to sale through a state inspection once I get this figured out...

Thanks, guys!

-Jonny

 

[SnakeBit]

You should be able to disable the rear ones in your tune. Check with your tuner on that.

 

[Jonny00GT]

You should be able to disable the rear ones in your tune. Check with your tuner on that.

I don't have EGR, so I believe dissabling the rear O2s will give too many "not ready" codes and I won't be able to pass inspection. If that was going to be the case, I wouldn't have gone through the trouble of installing a cat and down stream O2. Thanks for the reply though!

Maybe someone in Texas knows if I can pass inspection with the EGR and Rear O2s off???

I have made some progress...I now only have one of the preheat codes throwing. I only spliced in the 2 small wires from the sister O2 harness, so now I'm wondering if the 2 fat wires are ground and power or both power and if one or both need to be twisted together or grounded in order to send the message to the PCM that the preheat circuit is in tact...Anyone know???


-Jonny

 

[Jonny00GT]

I think I've figured it out though. I just have to back trace the 2 white wires on the sensor to the harness and those are the 2 heater wires. I'm willing to bet they are the 2 fatter ones I have hanging right now. I'm going to probe for 12V and ground when car is running and I'm willing to bet splicing those together will tell the PCM the heater element is working and I'm golden!

I'll keep you posted.

-Jonny

 

[TRBO VNM]

well, plenty of other people go through inspection with EGR and rear o2's disabled and they throw no codes. just maybe you did go through the trouble you didn't have to.

 

[Jonny00GT]

well, plenty of other people go through inspection with EGR and rear o2's disabled and they throw no codes. just maybe you did go through the trouble you didn't have to.

Entirly possible! Would it be obscine of me to claim I'm trying to keep it "Green" by running a cat while only getting about 15mpg??!! LOL

Think I got it worked out though...

-Jonny

 

[Jonny00GT]

I just used the 2 white wires from a spare front O2 I had and installed it in my Dyno wide band bung...so far, so good. That was just the cheaper alternative to buying a resistor and heat sink plate, but that should work also.

-Jonny