Adding fans to Roush H/E?

pickles

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Has anyone added fans to the supplied Roush H/E? Doesn't seem to be a popular mod so I'm going to assume it's not worth it, but curious to hear your thoughts/opinions on it. The VMP H/E & fan setup won't fit the budget this year unfortunately, but a couple of fans are do-able.
 
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hand-filer

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Why not consider installing a 2013+ GT500 cooling fan instead. It's a direct bolt in and will pull more air through the inter cooler, a/c condenser and the rad.
It's cleaner, faster, cheaper and likely to be more effective. Adding fans and shrouds to the inter cooler ends up blocking airflow to the radiator.
 

BrianH87

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I've actually considered adding the GT500 fan to mine as well. I'd imagine it would have some benefit. I couldn't find anyone that had done it, so I didn't want to waste the time or money unless I knew for sure it would work.
 

hand-filer

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Been there done it and it's an easy install.
I've actually considered adding the GT500 fan to mine as well. I'd imagine it would have some benefit. I couldn't find anyone that had done it, so I didn't want to waste the time or money unless I knew for sure it would work.
 

pickles

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Why not consider installing a 2013+ GT500 cooling fan instead. It's a direct bolt in and will pull more air through the inter cooler, a/c condenser and the rad.
It's cleaner, faster, cheaper and likely to be more effective. Adding fans and shrouds to the inter cooler ends up blocking airflow to the radiator.

Never heard of this before, will definitely look in to it. Thanks!
 

Scott8583

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Subscribing for the details...

I keep wanting to upgrade to a bigger H/E with fans, but my tuner says the Roush is fine & anything bigger is over kill... This fan upgrade might be the ticket...

Anyone have pics?
 

stanger1

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I live in the Midwest with Summer Temps well over 100 degree's. My 5.0 with TVS would run a little hot during those times, and so I asked my tuner if they could change the fan on high speed temp to come on earlier and they set it at 195, and from that point on, my car never went over 197 degree's even at stop light. Stock fan, stock radiator. Like clockwork, fan would go into high speed at 195. Perfect solution for my car and setup..
Before that, I was always going 205-210 at stop lights..
 

oldstv

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You are needing to look at AIT numbers. On my Roush with the Roush he the AITs on a low 80s day are at 140 sitting at the starting light. By the time the run is made they reach the 150s. Way too hot even at the light.
There is no telling how much hp the ecu is pulling with those numbers.
At 100degs what do you think?
 

stanger1

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I guess we are talking intercooler here,
I noticed the biggest change from my last Roush TVS with the closed airbox to my currect Roush with TVS and open airbox, my AIT's did jump up alot. The hot temps under the hood are getting pulled into the open airbox. Need to seal it better.
My tuner said I would not see much difference between the stock fan and the GT500 fan on the AIT's. But did highly recommend the dual fan heat exchanger.
 
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Vert

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The highest temps I saw over the summer with the vmp afco dual fan HE was 137. Temps usually ran mid teens when driving in 90°s
 

BrianH87

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Dumb questions, but does the stock fan actually run when the vehicle is in motion? Do the dual afco fans run when the car is moving? I'm just trying to figure out the benefits here other than a few degrees cooler IAT's. When driving, I could see the extra fans actually causing more harm than good. At idle it's a different story.
 

VNMOUS1

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Dumb questions, but does the stock fan actually run when the vehicle is in motion? Do the dual afco fans run when the car is moving? I'm just trying to figure out the benefits here other than a few degrees cooler IAT's. When driving, I could see the extra fans actually causing more harm than good. At idle it's a different story.

Fans don't "block flow" or any of the other wive's tales you've heard.

On the VMP Triple pass/Dual Fan unit, the 11" Spal fans pull ambient air across the core at over 35mph. When at speed the air still passes through the moving fan.

With a high performance heat exchanger, the average IAT2 is around 30 degrees over ambient. So, on an 80 degree day, it'll max at 110f.

Ford's factory calibration is designed to begin pulling timing just a few degrees above that. If we know you have high performance cooling, we'll set your timing table to 150+f so you won't pull any timing at all and we know it's safe because of how well the heat exchanger rejects heat.

In addition to rejecting heat, the unit also rebounds from any excessive heat at a very fast rate. For example, on my 750rwhp GT500, I'll see 135 at the end of a 1/4 mile pass. It drops on the way back on the return road. Not that I'd ever suggest doing so, but you COULD hot lap the car with temps dropping so quickly. That said, if I let the car just sit, with no power on for a while in the pits, I can turn it on and see 170+ on the IAT2 because it's just been sitting there, baking in the radiant heat from the block. Crank up the car and/or fans and pump and it drops from 170+ to 125 or so in less than a minute!

Heat not only robs power, but is a MAJOR contributor to detonation.

If there's anything you should never cheap out on, it's cooling and octane.

bj
 

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