a header question of a different type

i want boost

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2 part post here, i am half way through my header install, i will be using factory studs and nuts with new oem gaskets. i DO NOT want to have to go through this pain to re tighten the header nuts...i am doing this on jack stands so my theory in attempt to avoid this is put the car through several heat/cool cycles then re torque nuts before bolting everything back together.. . with k member dropped (stick car) and motor and trans supperted by a floor jack, would i run into any issues starting and letting the car idle with floor jack being the only support??

second part to doing this is the k member is dropped so the steering column is free, now i locked the wheel before starting the install, but i know when i go to start the car the clock spring will be free again, when the wheel releases on start will this damage the spring? will the steering column take off spinning being that its not connected to anything? i'm not sure what to expect here.

one other thing i know on older stangs when dropping the k it seemed to have been a pain re aligning it, and an alignment was necessary, if i outlined the k to assure it went right back where it was originally if there is any slop when bolting it back up, should i need an alignment?
 

five.slow

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These are not small black chevys with crappy header bolts. If you use the stock hardware you don't have to do heat cycles. I have done 3 header installs and never had a issue.
 

Torchy

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OP fwiw I never retorqued my TT headers. No leaks here and I reused the stock studs.
 

scott_0

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as said, no need in retorquing the header nuts, I installed my LT's reusing the stock hardware and gaskets last March and they have not been an issue at all with leaks or loosening
 

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