You'll be able to get the blanks.
99 GT starting in Road Racing
- Thread starter 99 GT
- Start date
I called him up today and all he can get me is the slotted rotors. Id rather just keep mine otherwise if someone wants to swap me for some new brembo blanks, i might just do it.
Slotted rotors are perfectly fine for street or track. It's only the drilled rotors you don't want to use on track!
FWIW
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
You will be just fine with the slotted.
I've used both slotted and solid, and both worked fine for me.
Gotten most of mine from TireRack, and from other members in our Cobra club who have show/drag cars and are throwing away the stock rotors after getting drilled rotors for the look.
Gotten most of mine from TireRack, and from other members in our Cobra club who have show/drag cars and are throwing away the stock rotors after getting drilled rotors for the look.
On down the road, after a few events. I would recommned some aftermarket guages. Water temp, oil press and oil temp are three good items to know exactly what theyre doing while on track. After going on track with real guages, I dont think I would want to go back on track with just the stock dummy guages.
haha I actually have some autometer phantom gauges waiting to be installed: air/fuel, water, oil press.
oh and does anyone have suggestions on which spark plugs to run...i have 30% off any plugs from my work right now and i was going to take advantage of it now...bosch, autolite, ngk, champion???
If you have basic motor mods, the stock plugs work fine. If it is time to change plugs I use NGK with good results.
What exactly do i need to install my Autometer phantom gauges:
1. air/fuel - ???
2. Water temperature - copper wire or something?
3. Oil pressure - nylon tubing or something?
1. air/fuel - ???
2. Water temperature - copper wire or something?
3. Oil pressure - nylon tubing or something?
anybody know?
For my AutoMeter (not Phantom) H2O temp we welded a bung to the crossover pipe, and ran wire from there. Oil pressure (non-mechanical) is coming off the AM sender at the filter, a setup I'm not happy with, it rubs the clutch cable. Can't help with A/F. :shrug:
Hey, TXPD. Who are you racing with?
My car was broke so I crewed at the ARRC last year.
We're doing SARRC again this year. A/Sedan
I agree starting out
1)Pads (I like Hawk. I use DTC 70 front, and HP+ rears, but Blues or HT 14 are good choices, too. If you plan on driving on street, HP+ all around are ok.
2)Brake Fluid I have used Motorcraft HD nee Ford HD for years. I understand they changed it last year so I'll use Wilwood 600 this year.
3)Tires I used Kumhos (V700 and Victoracers) for years, then Goodyear and now Hoosier R6's. I do autocross on Falken 615 and really like them for that. I understand they get greasy when hot for track days, though.
If 24 years of racing means anything, stay away from crossdrilled or even slots. Labor intensive, no real advantage, for mere mortals. Ok if you can afford to replace every weekend. I cracked a set of high zoot cross drilled rotors in '94 and never bought anymore. See pads above. They are what stop you, not rotors. Rotors are expendable like tires. I go through a couple of sets of rotors and 4 or 5 sets of tires a year.
My car was broke so I crewed at the ARRC last year.
We're doing SARRC again this year. A/Sedan
I agree starting out
1)Pads (I like Hawk. I use DTC 70 front, and HP+ rears, but Blues or HT 14 are good choices, too. If you plan on driving on street, HP+ all around are ok.
2)Brake Fluid I have used Motorcraft HD nee Ford HD for years. I understand they changed it last year so I'll use Wilwood 600 this year.
3)Tires I used Kumhos (V700 and Victoracers) for years, then Goodyear and now Hoosier R6's. I do autocross on Falken 615 and really like them for that. I understand they get greasy when hot for track days, though.
If 24 years of racing means anything, stay away from crossdrilled or even slots. Labor intensive, no real advantage, for mere mortals. Ok if you can afford to replace every weekend. I cracked a set of high zoot cross drilled rotors in '94 and never bought anymore. See pads above. They are what stop you, not rotors. Rotors are expendable like tires. I go through a couple of sets of rotors and 4 or 5 sets of tires a year.
I should be okay with the cross drilled for 1 event in february right?...im installing the brakes this weekend and so i think 3 weeks of breaking them in(daily driver) will hopefully last with out cracking through one event right:shrug:...oh and hopefully the brakes ducts will keep the temperature a little lower:thumbsup:
I didn't look through all the posts, but the problem I've seen is ALL rotors will develop heat cracks. On the A/Sedan car I don't worry too much about them, but will replace them before next race weekend. BTW, heat checking is the little 1/4-1/2" cracks that will develop where the pads meet the rotor surface. Not a big deal. When they get more than 1/2" or so, I start to worry. With the drilled rotors, the cracks will go from hole to hole with BIG gaps where the holes are, holes that are only an inch or so a part..so 1/2" in either direction hole to hole and BINGO you have connecting dots and can actually see the cracks in the holes. Bad things happen just too quick after that.
Old Sebring, when it had the hairpin, was 130-140 flat out and then hard braking to maybe 20 for the right hand hairpin. One 30 minute practice session and I had stress hairline cracks. (On pit lane rotors were 900+ degrees after cool down lap.) When I came in after qualifying, I had visible cracks from hole to hole. I put the car on the trailer.
Tire rack rotors work fine, as do the best rotor Advance or NAPA has for the old LX I had. (Bendix, BTW). On the A/Sedan I use .81" x 12.19 Wilwoods on a Wilwood aluminum hat.
I can get pretty much 4-6 race weekends out of a pair on the fronts and they are only about $40 each. Rears last all season.
On the breaking in, on the racecar that only takes about 25 minutes.
I'm lucky I live pretty much in the middle of nowhere. I make a couple of 55-10mph slow downs-hard on brakes, but not skidding or anything..NOTE I DO NOT STOP. Tell you why a minute. This is where you will smell the brakes. I'll drive another mile to cool some and make a couple of 65-10mph hard slow downs. REALLY smelly now.
Another mile and I'm at the Tennessee River. This time I make one hard slow down from .......I take the fifth... and THEN drive 55 for about 3 miles with no brakes at all to cool everything off. There is a resturant lot I can turn around in and 9 times out of 10 there is no traffic so I don't have to touch brakes. Don't do this in town with lights or cross streets. Trick is not touch brakes, except for the bedding in process.
Back 3 miles to the river and I'll slow down and pull over, not touching the brakes again. Just roll to a stop. If I get out and measure, rotors will show about 150-200 degrees, still. Easy ride back to the house and pads/ rotors are ready for practice laps the next race weekend.
The reason for doing all this is so you don't heat shock crack the pad OR rotor.
Wanna see? drop an ice cube in a glass of water at room temperature.
The heating slowly and cooling allows a layer of pad to spread over the rotor, just like seasoning a pan to cook with.
If you hold brake to a complete stop, you will deposit a hot pad shaped blob on the rotor. This leads to "warped" rotor syndrome as you feel the lump everytime the pads go over it.
Oh and have fun at your event!
Old Sebring, when it had the hairpin, was 130-140 flat out and then hard braking to maybe 20 for the right hand hairpin. One 30 minute practice session and I had stress hairline cracks. (On pit lane rotors were 900+ degrees after cool down lap.) When I came in after qualifying, I had visible cracks from hole to hole. I put the car on the trailer.
Tire rack rotors work fine, as do the best rotor Advance or NAPA has for the old LX I had. (Bendix, BTW). On the A/Sedan I use .81" x 12.19 Wilwoods on a Wilwood aluminum hat.
On the breaking in, on the racecar that only takes about 25 minutes.
I'm lucky I live pretty much in the middle of nowhere. I make a couple of 55-10mph slow downs-hard on brakes, but not skidding or anything..NOTE I DO NOT STOP. Tell you why a minute. This is where you will smell the brakes. I'll drive another mile to cool some and make a couple of 65-10mph hard slow downs. REALLY smelly now.
Another mile and I'm at the Tennessee River. This time I make one hard slow down from .......I take the fifth... and THEN drive 55 for about 3 miles with no brakes at all to cool everything off. There is a resturant lot I can turn around in and 9 times out of 10 there is no traffic so I don't have to touch brakes. Don't do this in town with lights or cross streets. Trick is not touch brakes, except for the bedding in process.
Back 3 miles to the river and I'll slow down and pull over, not touching the brakes again. Just roll to a stop. If I get out and measure, rotors will show about 150-200 degrees, still. Easy ride back to the house and pads/ rotors are ready for practice laps the next race weekend.
The reason for doing all this is so you don't heat shock crack the pad OR rotor.
Wanna see? drop an ice cube in a glass of water at room temperature.
The heating slowly and cooling allows a layer of pad to spread over the rotor, just like seasoning a pan to cook with.
If you hold brake to a complete stop, you will deposit a hot pad shaped blob on the rotor. This leads to "warped" rotor syndrome as you feel the lump everytime the pads go over it.
Oh and have fun at your event!
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No!! :read: NEVER go to the track with drilled rotors. Period!
To steal a line from John.............. That's some free advice right there!!
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