99 GT starting in Road Racing

[99 GT]

hey guys i have a 99 mustang GT coupe 5 spd. I am looking into starting some roading racing and just wondering what you guys think i should get. I read the tech section in Nov. MM&FF magazine of the 99 GT build and after reading this is what ive come up with for my parts list:

-MM full length sub frame connectors
-MM strut bar
-Tokico shocks
-13" front cobra brakes
-Corbeau FX1 fixed seat
-Raptor shift light
-Midcontinent brake ducts
-Steeda tri ax short shifter
-JLT CAI

As well as the parts i already have in my sig. I can get everything above in the parts list for about $1200. Please let me know what you guys think. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks, Jason

 

[BlackStripes]

nice list, i'd probably change the strut bar for rotors/pads and a nice alignment

 

[nightstalker865]

I would swap out the STB for a K-member brace and go ahead and upgrade the front pads on the car. Stock cobra pads will not cut it for long on track as your get more and more seat time. I also responded to your autox post.

 

[wheelhopper]

If you're just starting, I would simply make sure all your fluids are changed, you have no leaks, and everything is in good working order. As you progress you will learn what you need to change. The stock car is plenty capable for a first timer.

I do feel that every pre '05 Mustang should have subframe connectors regardless of how you use it.

 

[99COBRA2881]

Seat time, get on etrack as much as possible.

Upgrading the nut behind the wheel is the fastest mod there is.

 

[99 GT]

I was also thinking about changing the fluids too. I have some Raybestos QS ceramic front and rear brake pads (got them for free), will they work better than stock?

Ive been watching some videos and i noticed that around the sharp turns, the front bumpers get pretty low to the ground.:uh oh: I have the Cobra R urethane front bumper, am i going to hit? And do i need like a skid plate or some kind of extra bracing for the front? --thanks

 

[nightstalker865]

I was also thinking about changing the fluids too. I have some Raybestos QS ceramic front and rear brake pads (got them for free), will they work better than stock?

Ive been watching some videos and i noticed that around the sharp turns, the front bumpers get pretty low to the ground.:uh oh: I have the Cobra R urethane front bumper, am i going to hit? And do i need like a skid plate or some kind of extra bracing for the front? --thanks

Just run a stiffer spring that will not allow the car to nose dive to bad. I would say H&R race springs would do very well for a entry level track driver.

 

[wheelhopper]

Ceramic pads are not for high performance driving. I would not use those, stock brakes would be better.

 

[99 GT]

What kind of material pads do i need?

 

[ac427cobra]

Like many others have already said in their replies, I'm just going to reiterate:

-MM full length sub frame connectors Yes, these are a good idea for any SN-95 platform but not absolutely necessary
-MM strut bar forget it
-Tokico shocksdon't need them
-13" front cobra brakesThis is a safety item, I'd say yes with a good intermediate pad
-Corbeau FX1 fixed seat Seats are nice but you don't need one yet. Use an anti-skid mat under your butt for now.
-Raptor shift lightKeep your RPM's so low you won't need a shift light
-Miscontent brake ductsAbsolutely. ALL Mustangs need front brake cooling on track
-Steeda tri ax short shifterSave your money for track events
-JLT CAIDont' need that either


Drive your car stock on stock tires and suspension and that will give you the best feedback for what the car is doing and how you need to compensate for it's inefficiencies. The driver mod is more important than most of the mods you have listed.

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[wheelhopper]

As far as brake pads. If you need new ones I would get the EBC yellows. I have been happy w/ these. They may not work once you get to the level of some of the more experieced guys on here but they will work for a couple years.

 

[TroyV]

Like many others have already said in their replies, I'm just going to reiterate:

-MM full length sub frame connectors Yes, these are a good idea for any SN-95 platform but not absolutely necessary
-MM strut bar forget it
-Tokico shocksdon't need them
-13" front cobra brakesThis is a safety item, I'd say yes with a good intermediate pad
-Corbeau FX1 fixed seat Seats are nice but you don't need one yet. Use an anti-skid mat under your butt for now.
-Raptor shift lightKeep your RPM's so low you won't need a shift light
-Miscontent brake ductsAbsolutely. ALL Mustangs need front brake cooling on track
-Steeda tri ax short shifterSave your money for track events
-JLT CAIDont' need that either


Drive your car stock on stock tires and suspension and that will give you the best feedback for what the car is doing and how you need to compensate for it's inefficiencies. The driver mod is more important than most of the mods you have listed.

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

I agree with all of this save the strut bar omission. That is a debate for another day/time..

Just one thing to add to AC's list with regard to the seat. If you are just starting out, you will have instructors as passengers. You will need to provide for them the same level and configuration of seat and restraint system that is being used in the drivers position. Most clubs I have run with enforce that. I figured I'd mention it so you won't surprisingly be sent home at tech or when your instructor chooses not to get in your car due to the mismatch. The seats, bar, harnesses, and HANS are really part of an entire system, and they really don't work as intended without the entire system in place. All or nothing. In reference to your list, I vote that you stick with the antislip pad as AC suggests and get the brakes and the ducts.. Save the rest of your cash for track fees, spares, fuel and hotels.....

 

[TXPD]

Like many others have already said in their replies, I'm just going to reiterate:

-MM full length sub frame connectors Yes, these are a good idea for any SN-95 platform but not absolutely necessary
-MM strut bar forget it
-Tokico shocksdon't need them
-13" front cobra brakesThis is a safety item, I'd say yes with a good intermediate pad
-Corbeau FX1 fixed seat Seats are nice but you don't need one yet. Use an anti-skid mat under your butt for now.
-Raptor shift lightKeep your RPM's so low you won't need a shift light
-Miscontent brake ductsAbsolutely. ALL Mustangs need front brake cooling on track
-Steeda tri ax short shifterSave your money for track events
-JLT CAIDont' need that either


Drive your car stock on stock tires and suspension and that will give you the best feedback for what the car is doing and how you need to compensate for it's inefficiencies. The driver mod is more important than most of the mods you have listed.

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

Bruce is the boss. Listen to what he says.

I will give you my perspective. I started my racing from scratch in February with the SCCA Double License School at Roebling Road. I drove my Cobra R to the track. I ran on Nitto 555's. I ran 300 miles on the race track in four days and then drove it home.

My car was a streetable race car that had a passenger seat. No subframe connectors, No strut bar, old Tokicos on the softest settings, stock cobra brakes with intermediate pads(they had to be replaced before I drove home),
and No shift light. I did have decent brake ducting and the Steeda shifter.

The most important thing that I can give you from my experience is to drive the car that you know and avoid messing with it whenever possible. Add only the things that you know that you need and ONLY when you need them as you grow.

Change the fluids, make sure you have fresh brake pads and rotors and a back up set when you go to the track. Then drive it until you know it.

 

[ac427cobra]

I agree with all of this save the strut bar omission. That is a debate for another day/time..

Troy:

I am assuming this is a strut tower brace he was talking about? Until the car is converted to coil-overs (if ever?) the strut bar will do very little IMHO.

FWIW


:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[TroyV]

Dadgummit!!!! I said another day/time!!!!

 

[ShelbyGuy]

You'll probably want to remove the 00R urethane splitter too. They are a mostly cosmetic piece that can flap around pretty bad at higher speeds.


forget about spending money on the car for the first several events. spend the money on the consumables like brake pads, rotors, and fuel.

I'm really conservative and tend to change out my rotors every 2nd or 3rd set of brake pads. I've never had a rotor crack on me at the track, and I'm not about to have it happen...

This Vette had a rotor grenade. I have no idea how the goof in the Ferrari did that (You'd have to ask Bruce - I won't run with F-body)

 

[wheelhopper]

:uh oh:

 

[TXPD]

These are from the test day for the ARRC at Road Atlanta. They were new in the morning. There are brake changes coming at my shop. That is for sure.

 

[nightstalker865]

These are from the test day for the ARRC at Road Atlanta. They were new in the morning. There are brake changes coming at my shop. That is for sure.

I was told that this is a result of not seasoning the rotors before you put them through the stress of track abuse. By seasoning I mean put lots of heat cycles on them. (street miles)

 

[ac427cobra]

This Vette had a rotor grenade. I have no idea how the goof in the Ferrari did that (You'd have to ask Bruce - I won't run with F-body)

What? A Ferrari backwards on the track and a couple six or eight Crashed Corvettes!?! It happens like almost every event at RA!!!! ;-)oke:

I'd run with F-Body 100 times before I'd run with Midwest NASA ONE more time! :fart::bash::kaboom::burn:

I was told that this is a result of not seasoning the rotors before you put them through the stress of track abuse. By seasoning I mean put lots of heat cycles on them. (street miles)

Seasoning rotors can add HUGE life to them! It's just not practical for everyone to do.

I found a set of slotted Brembo rotors I picked up on ebay stupid cheap, seasoned the bejebbers out of them and I have yet to kill them! They just refuse to die. I am a FIRM believer in seasoning rotors. Even if it does cost you a speeding ticket or two! :fart: