I am looking at some other cars, so I am putting my incredibly clean and great running 1997 Pacific Green Cobra up for sale. I am in Liberty, Missouri, which is a suburb of Kansas City, Missouri.
Kenne bell 2.1 twin screw supercharger 9# pulley
03 mach 1 aluminum block .030 over
CP forged aluminum (7cc) dished pistons 9.1 compression
Manley forged h beam rods 5.933 w/arp bolts
03 mach 1 forged crank
Clevite race main & rod bearings Set H
ARP head studs
ARP main studs
97 cobra 4 valve heads were completely gone through
03 cobra valves & springs
97 cobra cams
New valves seals and valves were lapped
IMRC delete plates
Cometic MLS head gaskets
Walbro In-Tank 255
Ford Racing 42lb injectors
C&L cold air intake
Ford racing 90mm mass air K&N air filter
Pacesetter long tube headers and offroad X pipe (no cats). Magnaflow stainless catback and tips
Kenne Bell supercharger pulley tool
Kenne Bell supercharger oil
SCT tuner (tuned on dyno) tuned on 9 lbs
Auto meter boost gauge and wideband air/fuel gauge (dual clock dash mount)
Trans/Suspension
03 cobra T-56 6 speed (30,000 miles)
03 cobra aluminum flywheel
Pro-Motion 26 spline clutch. 03/04 Cobra pressure plate
Clutch disc-Kevlar composite on one side and metallic/organic on the other
600hp rated. Nearly stock feel and take-up, best clutch I have ever owned!!
Liberty 26 spline input shaft
Dallas Speed-Cal for speedo correction (GPS'd dead-on)
Steeda lowering springs
Steeda struts and shocks
Ford Racing 3.73 gears
AFS 9" (front), 10.5" (rear) 17" chrome 03 cobra rims come with car. I remove these every winter and install the stock wheels, so the chrome on these wheels is excellent
As in my sig (second to last line of sig), the car was ran down the dragstrip 2 times before our track closed forever. The 1st run I screwed up bad enough I didn't even get a full run, and the 2nd I ran a 12.6 @ 112mph. I imagine there is more in it for someone really working at it!!
The car has been done correctly and the money spent where it was needed. More importantly, the mods have been done correctly and all loose ends have been tied up. I have used the car pretty much as a daily driver since I got the car and other than Spec Stage 3 clutch that was originally in the car, it has not given me any trouble at all. When looking at everything that has been done you will see that it's been finished in a very professional manner. The build has about 12k miles and all is well and the car drives the same as stock. I am an old man (47) and anyone who knows me, knows that I don't tear my stuff up. Have I hammered on the car? Of course, but I don't make a habit of it, and I ensure that all maintenance is completed on time and properly. The car is always kept in my climate controlled garage.
I took care of a couple of CEL's a few weeks ago, but they came back. I am getting codes P1000 and P1443. Both codes that have no effect on the everyday running of the car, but have come back again. I can delete them with the SCT2 that comes with the car, but they will come back apparently?
I was told by a guy that was looking at the car the following..."The 1443 code shows to be a loose gas cap and the 1000 is an incomplete diagnostic scan." I can't verify this, but it's been an on and off on these codes since I have owned the car and has never made any difference in the way the car runs.
Another thing the wife mentioned after she drove it that I didn't mention in the original post, is that the idle will hang around 1200-1500 until you come to a complete stop and it then comes down to normal within a a second or two. I have gotten to where I don't even notice it, but I should mention it.
I have a clean and clear title in my name only (no leinholder). All of the panels on the car are as delivered from Ford and i'm pretty certain that the paint is original and in really nice shape. I won't say that the paint is perfect, as the car is a 1997, but it's safe to say that it's really nice with very minimal imperfections. I would give the paint AND interior a 8.5-9 out of 10.
UPDATE 03/19/2013: Lowered price to $9,000!!
$10,500. Would consider trading up to an 11' and up 5.0 Mustang or F-150. I would also consider trading toward a 07-up GT500. A coyote swapped anything might be cool if it's REALLY nice. And a bit of stretch, but even a TDI VW!!! Or trade down for the right motorcycle!! Here I'm more open to different possibilities, but I own a Victory Hammer and I like V-Rods, British bikes, sport touring (like FJR1300, Concours, etc.).
Some people get upset with a low offer. I will reply to all but the most silly offers!! lol
Kenne bell 2.1 twin screw supercharger 9# pulley
03 mach 1 aluminum block .030 over
CP forged aluminum (7cc) dished pistons 9.1 compression
Manley forged h beam rods 5.933 w/arp bolts
03 mach 1 forged crank
Clevite race main & rod bearings Set H
ARP head studs
ARP main studs
97 cobra 4 valve heads were completely gone through
03 cobra valves & springs
97 cobra cams
New valves seals and valves were lapped
IMRC delete plates
Cometic MLS head gaskets
Walbro In-Tank 255
Ford Racing 42lb injectors
C&L cold air intake
Ford racing 90mm mass air K&N air filter
Pacesetter long tube headers and offroad X pipe (no cats). Magnaflow stainless catback and tips
Kenne Bell supercharger pulley tool
Kenne Bell supercharger oil
SCT tuner (tuned on dyno) tuned on 9 lbs
Auto meter boost gauge and wideband air/fuel gauge (dual clock dash mount)
Trans/Suspension
03 cobra T-56 6 speed (30,000 miles)
03 cobra aluminum flywheel
Pro-Motion 26 spline clutch. 03/04 Cobra pressure plate
Clutch disc-Kevlar composite on one side and metallic/organic on the other
600hp rated. Nearly stock feel and take-up, best clutch I have ever owned!!
Liberty 26 spline input shaft
Dallas Speed-Cal for speedo correction (GPS'd dead-on)
Steeda lowering springs
Steeda struts and shocks
Ford Racing 3.73 gears
AFS 9" (front), 10.5" (rear) 17" chrome 03 cobra rims come with car. I remove these every winter and install the stock wheels, so the chrome on these wheels is excellent
As in my sig (second to last line of sig), the car was ran down the dragstrip 2 times before our track closed forever. The 1st run I screwed up bad enough I didn't even get a full run, and the 2nd I ran a 12.6 @ 112mph. I imagine there is more in it for someone really working at it!!
The car has been done correctly and the money spent where it was needed. More importantly, the mods have been done correctly and all loose ends have been tied up. I have used the car pretty much as a daily driver since I got the car and other than Spec Stage 3 clutch that was originally in the car, it has not given me any trouble at all. When looking at everything that has been done you will see that it's been finished in a very professional manner. The build has about 12k miles and all is well and the car drives the same as stock. I am an old man (47) and anyone who knows me, knows that I don't tear my stuff up. Have I hammered on the car? Of course, but I don't make a habit of it, and I ensure that all maintenance is completed on time and properly. The car is always kept in my climate controlled garage.
I took care of a couple of CEL's a few weeks ago, but they came back. I am getting codes P1000 and P1443. Both codes that have no effect on the everyday running of the car, but have come back again. I can delete them with the SCT2 that comes with the car, but they will come back apparently?
I was told by a guy that was looking at the car the following..."The 1443 code shows to be a loose gas cap and the 1000 is an incomplete diagnostic scan." I can't verify this, but it's been an on and off on these codes since I have owned the car and has never made any difference in the way the car runs.
Another thing the wife mentioned after she drove it that I didn't mention in the original post, is that the idle will hang around 1200-1500 until you come to a complete stop and it then comes down to normal within a a second or two. I have gotten to where I don't even notice it, but I should mention it.
I have a clean and clear title in my name only (no leinholder). All of the panels on the car are as delivered from Ford and i'm pretty certain that the paint is original and in really nice shape. I won't say that the paint is perfect, as the car is a 1997, but it's safe to say that it's really nice with very minimal imperfections. I would give the paint AND interior a 8.5-9 out of 10.
UPDATE 03/19/2013: Lowered price to $9,000!!
$10,500. Would consider trading up to an 11' and up 5.0 Mustang or F-150. I would also consider trading toward a 07-up GT500. A coyote swapped anything might be cool if it's REALLY nice. And a bit of stretch, but even a TDI VW!!! Or trade down for the right motorcycle!! Here I'm more open to different possibilities, but I own a Victory Hammer and I like V-Rods, British bikes, sport touring (like FJR1300, Concours, etc.).
Some people get upset with a low offer. I will reply to all but the most silly offers!! lol
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