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96' Procharged Cobra "Casper" Build

Discussion in 'SN95 Cobras' started by 01silverstang, Feb 24, 2021.

  1. BOTTLEFED5

    BOTTLEFED5 booost+spray= me Established Member

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    I have my old sct tuner that i used when i had the old blower/motor setup lol

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
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  2. 01silverstang

    01silverstang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    God bless you, lol. Send details!
     
  3. 01silverstang

    01silverstang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Look what I found after removing the Procharger... I’m still going to send it in for a “check-up” and cleaning... but who wants to bet this has something to do with the whining/grinding noise. Sits directly behind the Procharger bracket.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2021
    98 svt and mysteed like this.
  4. DaveWertz

    DaveWertz Active Member Established Member

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    That sounds awful. Sounds like some bearing failure to me.
     
  5. 96dreamer

    96dreamer Well-Known Member Established Member

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    That was certainly causing not only noise issues but possibly belt issues. Have you looked into opening the blower and looking at it yourself? There really isn't much to centri blowers. Up until the point of pulling the impeller they are dummy simple. Even pulling the impeller can be done with a bit of patience.
     
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  6. 01silverstang

    01silverstang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    What’s the Clint Eastwood quote, “a mans got to know his limitations.” The blower has never been serviced since it was sold in 2006, for $115 they will disassemble it and clean everything, tell me if anything is wrong, and the put it back together and send it back for another $40. So while I wish I had the skill to do it myself, I know they know what to do and what to look for.

    I will most certainly be replacing the idler today.
     
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  7. 01silverstang

    01silverstang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Good news, the blower is fine... replaced the worn out idler with a new one and found that the supercharger pulley was rubbing on the alternator housing. Ground the housing and clearanced it for the pulley and we are in business:



    The idle isn’t great, and while I’m going to clean the MAF and IAC, I think the vecuum line setup may be a problem too. Bottlefed already suggested getting the PCV out of the line and running a breather until I install a catch can. What else do you see that’s problematic? Here is the vacuum like setup:

    CB3-C1-E85-614-F-4-E19-84-AE-967-ADA313-ED6.jpg
     
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  8. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Premium Member Premium Member Established Member Single Barrel Sirs

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    Definitely sounds better now!


    like I said on FB that vacuum line shouldn’t go from the intake to the pcv without a one way check valve or it’ll be pressurizing it. Hard to tell from the pic what that Is in the valve cover

    the line from intake to bypass valve and boost sensor are fine just routed a little lazy for my ocd
     
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  9. 01silverstang

    01silverstang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    So that was you on FB, lol.

    I’m going to remove PCV, what is a cleaner routing in your opinion for boost gauge and big red blow off valve?

    Do you think PCV could be impacting idle?
     
  10. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Premium Member Premium Member Established Member Single Barrel Sirs

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    id check and see what that is in the driver side grommet and make sure its not already a one way valve (just blow through it from each side).

    Whats the PCV routing from the pass side valve cover?

    as far as the idle - I kind of doubt it. What exactly is wrong with the idle? It sounds ok in the video.

    I will say Im not really a fan of all that soft hose on plastic Ts using hose clamps. Maybe its fine... I would check all of that line for cracks or that it's gotten soft and collapsing under vacuum. You might have to use soft hose off the intake itself but at the first junction could swap to hard vacuum line (you can get it rolls of it at the auto parts house or maybe cheaper online). use a lighter to softer the end then put it on the plastic T. I put a small zip tie on that end and they hold at 18#s.

    as for routing - depends on how much effort you wanna put into it I guess. Is the BRRV located on the first pipe off the head unit or was it moved somewhere else? The boost sensor is already wired in so kind of at the mercy of the harness there. If nothing else Id at least try to tuck it under some other wiring.
     
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  11. 01silverstang

    01silverstang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    PCV on passenger is currently just a hose going to nothing. I don’t want blow by in the head unit, but I did connect it to the power pipe and the car still stalls and dies. This had me thinking vacuum leak.

    The idle starts at 1,500 the drops to 1,000 and fluctuates up and down, then ultimately drops and the engine dies.

    I go through the vacuum lines.
     
  12. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Premium Member Premium Member Established Member Single Barrel Sirs

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    will it immediately restart when it stalls?
     
  13. 01silverstang

    01silverstang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Yes, I think I’m going to clean the IAC today and reinstall... sounds like this may have something to do with it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2021
  14. DSG2003Mach1

    DSG2003Mach1 Premium Member Premium Member Established Member Single Barrel Sirs

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    it’s worth a shot, I’ve seen mixed results from cleaning them. Sometimes it helped, others only replacing it helped. If cleaning it does help it doesn’t seem unusual for it to be a short term fix
     
  15. DaveWertz

    DaveWertz Active Member Established Member

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    Mine looked nothing like that. Mine had a one way vaccum line going from PCV to intake. Why is yours T'd off? Is it that they have the passenger side routed to the driver side, hence why the T? And mine was setup that way from factory, never touched until my catch can. So I know for a fact yours doesn't look right at all.. My passenger side has one line going from the valve cover to the power pipe. Driver side (before catch can) went from the PVC valve directly to the intake. No T's and nothing else tied to either side. If you would like to see my setup before and after the blower and catch can, I can send pics. Shoot me a DM.
     
  16. 01silverstang

    01silverstang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Do you have a boost gauge and a blow off valve and where are you pulling vacuum for them?
     
  17. DaveWertz

    DaveWertz Active Member Established Member

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    I don't run a boost gauge and my Tial is routed to the passenger side against the firewall. There is a T that I was able to disconnect and tie my BOV to. I think it was part of my emissions system but no longer run any emissions on the car. I have a real simple setup that hasn't failed me yet.
     
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  18. 01silverstang

    01silverstang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I’ll have to check and see if I can run the blow off valve off passenger side as it currently hangs down in between the fan and front accessories and is held on with zip ties, it was low enough I worried about it catching on something and being ripped out. That would also help eliminate connections on the driver side for the boost gauge, unless there is a better vacuum source for the boost gauge as well?
     
  19. 01silverstang

    01silverstang Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Looking for suggestions:

    1. I would like to run both valve covers to an oil separator / catch can, which do you recommend and how should I go about connecting both sides?

    2. Where would you run your vacuum lines for blow off valve, and boost gauge in order to minimize t-connectors and potential vacuum leaks? I'm going to check for the t-connector from emissions that Dave mentioned but would love to know what sources are good to use.
     
  20. 96dreamer

    96dreamer Well-Known Member Established Member

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    01silverstang likes this.

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