600-650 whp what suspension to go with

im-1

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Hey guys.

my cobra will be around 600-650rwhp

and for the suspension i just have upr k-member / Coil Over Kit with Eibach Springs (rate 12250) <--- is that rate lower than the stock?? and what spring for rear to match this rate?? .


im planing to order
* Subframe Connectors
* Full Tilt Boogie<-----do i still need this even my car 3000mi
*10.5" wheels


is that enough and safe for my hp ??




Anything will be appreciated










Sorry if there any spelling mistake
 
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RDJ

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what do you plan to do with the car? street? Track? dragstrip? little of all of them? without knowing your plans it is a little hard to give you good advice and where you should go with your suspension. the full tilt boogie is certainly on the list of things you want to do. Full Length weld in subframe connectors are top of the list.

once you say what you want to do with your car we can help you more
 

mach1033

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Now I'm gonna go on an assumption that this will be a street car. Sub frames are a must and a quality one like stifflers is great. Drive shaft loop for added insurance. Full tilt boogie a must do. A rear diff brace is a minimum or better yet a Ford racing cover. Strut and shock tower brace is nice but not a real must do although I did it but that's cause I have a vert. Your stock shocks and struts will work great with a quality coilover kit from Maximum Motorsports although coilovers are not a must do either but I love mine. Now the last mod is an absolute must do and that is a quality tire. There isn't a street tire in the world that will put that kind of power to the ground. But you do have some great options. Nitto NTO5R's, Mickey Thompsons ET streets, Hoosiers and Toyo R888's to name a few.
 
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im-1

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what do you plan to do with the car? street? Track? dragstrip? little of all of them? without knowing your plans it is a little hard to give you good advice and where you should go with your suspension. the full tilt boogie is certainly on the list of things you want to do. Full Length weld in subframe connectors are top of the list.

once you say what you want to do with your car we can help you more

Street
 

Jimmysidecarr

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:banana:
Hey guys.

my cobra will be around 600-650rwhp

and for the suspension i just have upr k-member / Coil Over Kit with Eibach Springs (rate 12250) <--- is that rate lower than the stock?? and what spring for rear to match this rate?? .

im planing to order
* Subframe Connectors
* Full Tilt Boogie<-----do i still need this even my car 3000mi
*10.5" wheels
is that enough and safe for my hp ??
Anything will be appreciated
Sorry if there any spelling mistake

That front spring rate doesn't sound right. Coil over rates will be different than conventional springs by a lot, normally much lower than a conventional spring with the same wheel rate. Is that a typo and they are actually 250#each?
250 will be OK for mostly street usage, though it is a bit soft which is ok for street/strip apps.
Was your coil over kit just fronts or was it a complete Eibach kit? if complete just the run the rears they gave you. Our stock conventional OE SVT springs were 600# each front and rear, so I'm thinking 250 is OK on the rears as well.

If you are able to I would call Bruce at full tilt boogie racing tell him you are upgrading suspension on an 04 Terminator coupe, you already have a UPR K and Eibach coil over kit and find out what spring rates he recommends for a mostly street application like yours. With 650 rwhp you will likely be doing some drag racing at some point, he has an optional kit that has a Ford racing rear cover that is a prefered rear cover option. It has also been machined by ftbr to maximize/optimize the pinion angle to reduce high speed vibration. A plus for high speed roll races or mile events.

UPR K member is ok since you are not doing HPDE/open track/ road race type events. Just check it once a year for cracks, along with any additional components like lower control arms.

It will be pointless to have a car with this much power and potential and then just have average grip tires. I know it doesn't rain much in Kuwait but I would pick an R compound DOT legal type road race tire for your application instead of an R compound drag radial. Toyo R888, Nitto NT01 or other threaded road race type(non- slick street able) tires.

A car with this much power deserves appropriate grip.
 

im-1

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Thank you guys for this information

I really appreciate it


:banana:

That front spring rate doesn't sound right. Coil over rates will be different than conventional springs by a lot, normally much lower than a conventional spring with the same wheel rate. Is that a typo and they are actually 250#each?
250 will be OK for mostly street usage, though it is a bit soft which is ok for street/strip apps.
Was your coil over kit just fronts or was it a complete Eibach kit? if complete just the run the rears they gave you. Our stock conventional OE SVT springs were 600# each front and rear, so I'm thinking 250 is OK on the rears as well.

If you are able to I would call Bruce at full tilt boogie racing tell him you are upgrading suspension on an 04 Terminator coupe, you already have a UPR K and Eibach coil over kit and find out what spring rates he recommends for a mostly street application like yours. With 650 rwhp you will likely be doing some drag racing at some point, he has an optional kit that has a Ford racing rear cover that is a prefered rear cover option. It has also been machined by ftbr to maximize/optimize the pinion angle to reduce high speed vibration. A plus for high speed roll races or mile events.

UPR K member is ok since you are not doing HPDE/open track/ road race type events. Just check it once a year for cracks, along with any additional components like lower control arms.

It will be pointless to have a car with this much power and potential and then just have average grip tires. I know it doesn't rain much in Kuwait but I would pick an R compound DOT legal type road race tire for your application instead of an R compound drag radial. Toyo R888, Nitto NT01 or other threaded road race type(non- slick street able) tires.

A car with this much power deserves appropriate grip.


pice of the k member & coilover spring




 

im-1

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after some research i found that the upr k-member have bad Issues so i decided to keep it away. and go with

h&r spring
subframe connector
swaybar
ford racing cover
10.5 wheels


And after a few months mmr coilovers & mmr k-member


any Comments :??:
 
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Bruha

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Hey Jimmy, which would you buy first for mainly a street driven cobra with 600+ horse. The nitto or toyo? I figure either would be good. I imagine the nitto is cheaper???
 

Jimmysidecarr

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after some research i found that the upr k-member have bad Issues so i decided to keep it away. and go with

h&r spring
subframe connector
swaybar
ford racing cover
10.5 wheels


And after a few months mmr coilovers & mmr k-member


any Comments :??:

Yeah, better choices, keep it simple.
Get the H&R race not super sport springs
No sway bar change will be needed. The only sway bar I might consider changing is the rear bar, to a very slightly stiffer one. Newbs need to be very careful with this mod because when you decrease understeer you are also increasing oversteer and that must be done in very small careful steps or the car will bite you. Oversteer is dangerous!
Coil overs are a luxury and even for opentrack/HPDE use they are not actually needed.

Find out if the MM front K member requires use of coil overs, if it does you will be selling the H&R regular springs you just installed.:dw::nonono:



Hey Jimmy, which would you buy first for mainly a street driven cobra with 600+ horse. The nitto or toyo? I figure either would be good. I imagine the nitto is cheaper???

I would recommend starting out with the Nitto NT05 street radials. They have great grip for a normal radial and will allow the driver to learn the car easier than jumping right into a high grip R compound R888 in a car that is likely still somewhat unfamiliar.

Second set of tires go with the R888s after you are very familiar with the handling and quirks of the car.
 

Bruha

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I have my first track day coming up on Sept 29th. The NT05 should be fine for that right? It isn't a track day where they turn you loose. Just more of a spirited drive session.


Yeah, better choices, keep it simple.
Get the H&R race not super sport springs
No sway bar change will be needed. The only sway bar I might consider changing is the rear bar, to a very slightly stiffer one. Newbs need to be very careful with this mod because when you decrease understeer you are also increasing oversteer and that must be done in very small careful steps or the car will bite you. Oversteer is dangerous!
Coil overs are a luxury and even for opentrack/HPDE use they are not actually needed.

Find out if the MM front K member requires use of coil overs, if it does you will be selling the H&R regular springs you just installed.:dw::nonono:





I would recommend starting out with the Nitto NT05 street radials. They have great grip for a normal radial and will allow the driver to learn the car easier than jumping right into a high grip R compound R888 in a car that is likely still somewhat unfamiliar.

Second set of tires go with the R888s after you are very familiar with the handling and quirks of the car.
 

Bruha

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The biggest size I can find in the NT05 is a 295/35ZR18 99W. I am running a Pilot Sport sp2 now in a 315/30R18. Is that a decent tire to start tracking with?? What would be the result in handling running a smaller tire. What about a smaller tire on the front. I am running a 275 up front. I am fairly certain the 315 is probably too big for the cobra. It was on it when I bought it. Am I better off going for a smaller tire?

I remember seeing a vid on here of the Ford engineer talking about why they went with smaller tires on the new 2013 GT 500. Said it affected turn in and handling. How does that influence the handling characteristics of a car?

What are your tires sizes front and rear for street of track driving?

What size do you run when you track the car Jimmy? Sorry for all the questions! Just tryin to learn.
 

Bruha

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I just saw that the PS2 has a UTQG of 220, and the Nitto has a UTQG of 200.

Both have a Traction of AA, and a Temperature of A. Am I comparing these tire accurately? Am i better running the SP2's since I have them, then graduate to the R888's next?

EDIT:
Never mind! I notice the Toyo R888 has a UTQG of 100. So looks like the lower the tread wear rating the sticker it is. Still not sure if I would see a huge difference between the NT05 and the SP2 on a light track day.
 
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