500HP NA Shopping List

[ReV2ReD]

Hi everyone,

I've been lurking around the forum for a bit now mainly reading and doing some research. At this point i still don't have the mustang i want, but the idea is to fly over to the states some time in January/February and pick up a 2013 GT, and have it modified in the states before shipping it over back to Europe. It's the only feasible loophole i can find due to the unique laws against modifying cars where i live.

Anyway, my goal is to keep it NA and get around 500 HP at the crank, which i believe should equate to about 440 RWHP. So from what i've been reading most people seem to getting around 420-425 RWHP with the usual intake and exhaust bolt-ons, which is little short of what i would like, so i was just wondering if those of you in the know could tell me if the following shopping list would do the job?

JLT cold air intake
Boss 302 intake manifold
Kooks long tube headers with catted X-pipe (must have cats for emissions testing)
GT500 mufflers (can't really go more aggressive due to noise regulations and rear valance i want to run)
Diablosport tuner
Comp cams stage 2 camshafts

I'm hoping to get away with not needing the cams (perhaps throttle body instead), but realistically i think i will more than likely need them.

If you think some of it is a waste of time, or you think i would be better off with something else then let me know.
And yes, i will also be adding nitrous a little bit later, but i still want 500 without it.

Any help would be great. Thanks!

 

[darreng505]

That should do it.

 

[ReV2ReD]

You reckon with the cams? Or should a throttle body instead of cams do the job?

 

[Dizzyscure1]

You reckon with the cams? Or should a throttle body instead of cams do the job?

I'd do this, CJ Intake Manifold (clean the ports), Super CJ TB, FRPP CAI (cheaper $$ than Rev Auto) and LTH's with Hi-Flow cats, the Cats will hold u back possibly but if u have to have em then u have to have them. Hold off on the cams for now, try this setup first then if ur not where u wanna be then look into some cams. FRPP 47lb injectors would be a great idea if u wanna run E85 fuel. You will NOT need a BAP or a fuel system unless u get really crazy with your build or are running tons of E85. The stock pumps are NOT rated for E85 just so u know, the chances are low of your pump failing but still a chance. I'd guess with my list of mods for u and spinning to 7400rpms you should see your desired 440rwhp. Cams should get you another 25-40rwhp with the correct cam choice and rpms, REGRINDS from JPC could get you a decent bump without dumping $1300-1500 on cams and resuing your stock cams.

 

[Dizzyscure1]

And the most important thing, TUNE! Get a dyno tune if possible always the best route, any of the big name fellas would be able to help you out.

 

[Bullitt 3309]

What kind of fuel will youhave available there? That will ultimately determine what kind of power/tune. For max N/A, you really need the full compliment of Intake/Cams/Exhaust/Tune. The CJ intake/mono blade paired with Comp Stg 3, Kooks LT's and proper tune will be a good route.

 

[ReV2ReD]

Fuel here is 98 RON, which is the equivalent to your 93.

 

[SID297]

I'd do this, CJ Intake Manifold (clean the ports), Super CJ TB, FRPP CAI (cheaper $$ than Rev Auto) and LTH's with Hi-Flow cats, the Cats will hold u back possibly but if u have to have em then u have to have them. Hold off on the cams for now, try this setup first then if ur not where u wanna be then look into some cams. FRPP 47lb injectors would be a great idea if u wanna run E85 fuel. You will NOT need a BAP or a fuel system unless u get really crazy with your build or are running tons of E85. The stock pumps are NOT rated for E85 just so u know, the chances are low of your pump failing but still a chance. I'd guess with my list of mods for u and spinning to 7400rpms you should see your desired 440rwhp. Cams should get you another 25-40rwhp with the correct cam choice and rpms, REGRINDS from JPC could get you a decent bump without dumping $1300-1500 on cams and resuing your stock cams.

I like this formula.

 

[PhantomX]

For what it's worth heres what I did:

Air Raid CAi
Lethal OffRoad X-Pipe (you need a catted one I know)
GT500's
Livernois Tune

I also added a Steeda shifter, bushing to help with shifting and I recommend some rear suspension like springs, UCA/LCA so you can hook, all that power is useless without traction.

Now my car was a MT car with 3.73's and it dyno'd 430rwhp with just those 4 things. So if you did a Boss intake you'd be allover it with a good tune. From what I've heard the Cobra Jet Intake is even better than the Boss but I guess that's probably up for debate.

I would image even more power adding Cobra Jet intake and a good Throttle Body would be well over 440rwhp and if you did cams and port the heads probably closer to 500rwhp.

As was mentioned the most important part of that combo is the tune, its critical to have it tuned right and safe. Hope that helps some...

 

[SCalla1384]

I'd like to do it with out cams or heads.

Full exhaust , CJ mani. Big cold air, monoblade, other supporting mods, electric water pump, REM polish lighten rear end gears, REM polish all trans gears/shafts, light clutch and flywheel assembly, lighter rear brakes etc... I think 500 on e85 is doable without cams. Just depends how far your willing to go.

Freeing up the drivetrain efficiency will free up a good amount of power. Anything from the motor to the rear wheels that spins if you can lose weight there , it'll free up power.

Also If your going to do cams... Might as well go comp 3's. And I wouldn't use a JLT cold air either.

 

[nordy racer]

you do not need cams to get 440rwhp.. look at my sign down below.. stock cams at 460rwhp on E85..

 

[ReV2ReD]

Thanks for the help guys. Definitely think i'm gonna go the CJ manifold/TB/intake route then without the cams.

 

[Bullitt 3309]

A word of caution with the CJ setup. To get the most from it, you will need to spin it up past 7200. I would recommend Boss Valve Springs and billet oil pumps gears. I did that and added the FRPP Exhaust cams since I had it apart anyway. I say this since you will be overseas and a few pulls to 7600 could be bad for you. If you don't want to do that, then get the Boss intake since you are handicapping the CJ by rev limiting it. A few folk here are running the CJ with out springs or oil pump gears but I don't see the need for the risk. Hell the stock rods are now the weak link with me spinning it to 8k...

 

[ReV2ReD]

Hi Bullitt,

Thanks for the advice. Yeah from what i've been reading you need to spin it high to get the most out of it. But i don't need to get the most out of it just yet. All i need is 500 at the crank. The car will be my weekend toy and probably see the track (road course) maybe 2-3 times a year, so i'm happy to raise the rev limiter to 7200 and call it a day for now.

I'm sure that in the future the bug will hit me and i'll do heads, cams, and compression bump. At least then i know i'll have the intake to handle it.

 

[Sean@LethalPerformance]

I'd like to do it with out cams or heads. Full exhaust , CJ mani. Big cold air, monoblade, other supporting mods, electric water pump, REM polish lighten rear end gears, REM polish all trans gears/shafts, light clutch and flywheel assembly, LIGHTER REAR BRAKES etc... I think 500 on e85 is doable without cams. Just depends how far your willing to go. Freeing up the drivetrain efficiency will free up a good amount of power. Anything from the motor to the rear wheels that spins if you can lose weight there , it'll free up power.

What rear brakes would your recommend going with? All this time I've been focusing on how to save weight on front brakes, without going with the pricey 2 piece. I should've just thought about a smaller rear setup, sacrificing braking power in the rear won't be as bad as going with smaller thinner/rotors up front since their not used as much

I'm CJ/ e85 and full exhaust and I'm at 446/391 last I was on the rollers..

 

[SCalla1384]

What rear brakes would your recommend going with? All this time I've been focusing on how to save weight on front brakes, without going with the pricey 2 piece. I should've just thought about a smaller rear setup, sacrificing braking power in the rear won't be as bad as going with smaller thinner/rotors up front since their not used as much I'm CJ/ e85 and full exhaust and I'm at 446/391 last I was on the rollers..

Girodisc makes lighter rotors. Or you could go as far as strange 2 piece. Girodisc are 7lbs lighter all around. Not sure on strange. But alittle more.

Don't forget tire weight too. 275/60 15 nittos are like 29lbs each, Hoosier drag radials are about 19lbs each. That's a biiig weight savings too

 

[Sean@LethalPerformance]

Girodisc makes lighter rotors. Or you could go as far as strange 2 piece. Girodisc are 7lbs lighter all around. Not sure on strange. But alittle more.

Don't forget tire weight too. 275/60 15 nittos are like 29lbs each, Hoosier drag radials are about 19lbs each. That's a biiig weight savings too

Yeah, I'm well aware of the Girodisc, just can't justify the idea of $700 a pair for rotors, and Strange is un-street able for dd.. I was briefly doing some research after you mentioned smaller rears, and I came across this kit by JMS, called the JMS dominator kit which uses 99-04 brakes. Says it fits s197's but no mention of 11+ (though I'm sure it also fits) $220 or $270 drilled and slotted

http://www.jmschip.com/jms-s197-dom...otors-fits-2005-2010-mustang-gt-gt500-and-v6/

Tire I have 17" race stars tht I like for light weight street performance, so I'll be going from the nitto 555(30lbs) to 555R and I'll lose about 4lbs of rotating mass and a bit more grip.

 

[Sean@LethalPerformance]

A word of caution with the CJ setup. To get the most from it, you will need to spin it up past 7200. I would recommend Boss Valve Springs and billet oil pumps gears. I did that and added the FRPP Exhaust cams since I had it apart anyway. I say this since you will be overseas and a few pulls to 7600 could be bad for you. If you don't want to do that, then get the Boss intake since you are handicapping the CJ by rev limiting it. A few folk here are running the CJ with out springs or oil pump gears but I don't see the need for the risk. Hell the stock rods are now the weak link with me spinning it to 8k...

http://www.jmschip.com/jms-s197-dom...otors-fits-2005-2010-mustang-gt-gt500-and-v6/

What you mean by this?
Both manifolds require high revs for optimized power, both losing some tq till certain rpms about 4.5k for the cj and 5-5.5k for the boss. The bigger plenum volume of the CJ compared to the boss, gives it that characteristic similar to the stock manifold giving the engine more tq while it also has the top end bc of the long runners it shares with the boss..

Yes I see what your saying if your not shifting at 7,700 rpms with the CJ your not fully utilizing it and it should be done with the oil gears and valve springs.. But if your casually revving it up not trying to redline the thing and shifting say anywhere between 6000-7300 yours till making more hp and tq over the boss. If anything if your suggesting avoidance of frequent redline/engine stress. Keep the stock manifold and port it out for some decent gains

 

[Dizzyscure1]

http://www.jmschip.com/jms-s197-dom...otors-fits-2005-2010-mustang-gt-gt500-and-v6/

What you mean by this?
Both manifolds require high revs for optimized power, both losing some tq till certain rpms about 4.5k for the cj and 5-5.5k for the boss. The bigger plenum volume of the CJ compared to the boss, gives it that characteristic similar to the stock manifold giving the engine more tq while it also has the top end bc of the long runners it shares with the boss..

Yes I see what your saying if your not shifting at 7,700 rpms with the CJ your not fully utilizing it and it should be done with the oil gears and valve springs.. But if your casually revving it up not trying to redline the thing and shifting say anywhere between 600-7300 yours till making more hp and tq over the boss. If anything if your suggesting avoidance of frequent redline/engine stress. Keep the stock manifold and port it out for some decent gains

Decently said and correct BOTH Boss and CJ Intake manifolds require some spinning to produce power.