4.6 4v Teardown & Build Thread
- Thread starter JB85
- Start date
Thanks for making a build thread. I enjoy seeing 4.6 builds.
Got some more time to work on it tonight. Heads are off. All pistons are out. Now I just need to figure out how to take the crank out. Any one know how to remove those plates that hold it in place??? And the cylinder walls look perfect. I wonder how many miles were on it. And I realize that these blocks pretty much have zero room to bore it. Holy crap. It’s not like my 1969 351w. There’s zero room in this block
Attachments
Main caps are held in with 6 bolts and yours should have jack screws on the side bolts. They are hex drive screws with a through hole for the actual bolt. Allows for them to be pre tensioned on install. Once all that is out they can still be tight. Get a pair of channel locks/ vice grips and start wiggling while pulling out.
On the bore as you have already seen there isn't much material. Keep the cleanup bore to a minimum. You can get custom pistons from gibtec for not to much more than an off the shelf set. They make them in .001 increments to keep it to an absolute minimum
On the bore as you have already seen there isn't much material. Keep the cleanup bore to a minimum. You can get custom pistons from gibtec for not to much more than an off the shelf set. They make them in .001 increments to keep it to an absolute minimum
so now that the motor is completely apart, does anyone have any suggestions on a rebuild kit? its kind of difficult to find something on google for a 1996 cobra motor, everything i find is for 99-2004 cobras. is there a difference?
I dont plant on doing anything radical with the engine. Pretty much leave it stock. I wouldnt mind adding cams at a later point in time, but it would be greatly appreciated if someone could reccomend a kit for me to buy.
I dont plant on doing anything radical with the engine. Pretty much leave it stock. I wouldnt mind adding cams at a later point in time, but it would be greatly appreciated if someone could reccomend a kit for me to buy.
Why add cams later and not now when everything is apart?
Wow. I love this stuff. Crank definitely appears to be forged. Pistons look great! The whole motor looks really good TBH.
Shit.. I'd say bearings, new piston rings, ball hone the cylinders, fresh seals and silicon, throw it back together.
Shit.. I'd say bearings, new piston rings, ball hone the cylinders, fresh seals and silicon, throw it back together.
Money….lol unless it’s totally worth it. I’m trying to buy a rental house right now, and I’m trying to save as much funds as possible for it.
How much HP will it add?
Thanks! That had me worried!
In to follow along
There isn't a rebuild kit out there like what the push rod engines have.
As mentioned look into Gibtec pistons. Molnar seems popular for the rods. Unless you can score some Manleys for a good price.
I've used Clevite bearings before with success. Kings are really popular now though.
As mentioned look into Gibtec pistons. Molnar seems popular for the rods. Unless you can score some Manleys for a good price.
I've used Clevite bearings before with success. Kings are really popular now though.
What are your power goals? If you're not going much over 600 wheel, look into boss/gen3 coyote rods. Cheaper alternative. Good pistons and a balance job will have the short block capable of 600ish horse dependent on the tune.
I’m more a less looking to have a daily driver with a little extra power over stock. I’m a little bummed because from my research, it sounds almost impossible to make 400hp NA unless I do the coyote swap. I personally just love the sound these motors make. It’s very unique so I think my end goal is a fairly stock motor with some upgraded internals
You can definitely make 400'ish rwhp with the 4.6 4v N/A
Full bolt-ons w/ a good tune often puts people around the 330+ mark
I have no doubt larger cams & a little intake porting would send it over 400; these engines respond extremely well to modifications because they're completely restricted from the factory for EPA regulations. They're not gutless..
Of course the latter would destroy the unique sound of them & they'll end up sounding like any cam'd vehicle
IMO just do bolt-ons w/ 3.73-4.10 diff gears; you will have a 12 second car on drag radials without even opening the engine
400 is easily achieved. Mill heads, cams, headers, and a good tune.
powder coating shop called and said the intake and valve covers are done. This is the teaser pic they sent me.
hopefully the white motor looks good with the white saleen.
I did find a reproduction SVT decal, the motor build decal, and instead of trying to mimic the people that originally built the motor, myself and my son will sign the two spots it has on it. I thought that would be a unique touch to make it our own.
hopefully the white motor looks good with the white saleen.
I did find a reproduction SVT decal, the motor build decal, and instead of trying to mimic the people that originally built the motor, myself and my son will sign the two spots it has on it. I thought that would be a unique touch to make it our own.
Bad ass!!
Users who are viewing this thread
