4.0l Whipple 4.6 buildup

sicfast

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Like the title says, I'll be building up my every other weekend driven 03 and slapping the 4.0l Whipple on top. I've sent the heads off to be ported and polished, +1mm on intake valves and +2mm on exhaust. Oliver rods and Diamond pistons will be used and reusing the factory crank. Custom ground cams, Kooks long tubes to 3" exhaust all the way back. Converting to return style with supporting rails and pumps. Thoughts?
 

sicfast

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not going to bump the compression any, will maintain the 8.5:1. Fuel will be 91+100 mix for "conservative" tune. 110 for track tune. Expecting 800-1000rwhp.
 

sicfast

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FWIW both 100 and 110 are available to me at the pump, less than a mile away.
 
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stangfreak

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Hope you thought this build through. Your going to need more than a iw lower pulley or a caged lower pulley along with trying to keep the iat2's under control with that huge blower. That bad boy doesn't want a conservative tune. That blower needs 25 30 plus lbs of boost to shine e 85 or race gas all the time
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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Wow lol.. I don't even know where to start on how many things are wrong with the build imo.. Good luck though.
 

svtshadow

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If you can make 750rwhp with 2.3, whats the point of 4.0L to make 800rwhp?


What power is need to spin a 4.0L blower at idle?
 

mach1033

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I would consider getting a stronger crank cause thats gonna be your weakest link at 1000 plus HP. Post pics as you get started.
 

sicfast

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I'll be using the factory lower with cage and moving up from there with pulley swaps just as I've done with my outgrown eaton. Why would I want to spin a smaller Whipple harder to achieve the goals I want, when I can spin a larger blower slower? As far as crank, what would you all recommend? 98saleen, I've noticed in other threads you claim to see so much wrong with builds, but never give any CONSTRUCTIVE criticism. How about rather than pointing out "seeing so much wrong" with a build, actually giving some helpful advice?
 

sicfast

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Further, why would my IAT's be out of control? I already have a cooling system in mind that I think will be more than enough. I'm just looking for advice on parts wise for the motor. Different ideas, to get the 4.6 breathing enough for that blower. If I absolutely have to bore out motor, then I will. I just think it would be kinda cool to see the little motor with the big blower get down, especially when others say "it can't be done" or "just get the smaller blower".
 

brady_f

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I was considering going this route before deciding to go turbo.... I would go with an ARP studded billet crank if I were you. 3.4 is plenty sufficient for what you are shooting for unless you want the 4.0 for bragging rights/e-peen reasons. Killer chiller would be a must to keep IAT's somewhat under control. Good luck ...
 

sicfast

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I figured the 3.4 would be sufficient, but wanted to go the 4.0 route to show it can be done. Any preference crank wise?
 

stangfreak

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I really want to see the results I am not knocking the build. It's your car and I hope it runs hard. But what are your goals?

The only way I see a twinscrew run cool is if they are on low boost. Once they start operating at desired levels, they got hot. Don't let some of these tell you they run "cool". I didnt believe that since day one when the 2.2 came out for these cars. Any guy thats owned there cobra since day one will tell you. but my friends car.....well muscle mustang and fast fords said....no lol.

I wouldnt even run 110 octane on that blower. IMO? me? That blower needs e85 or c16. anything less is a waste and it wont be happy running low boost.

some are saying get a smaller blower because a huge blower on low boost, may make a nice peak hp number, but a smaller blower thats packing a punch with appropriate boost levels and even making less hp than you, may stay side by side with your car.

example. 15lb 2.2 kb vs upper lower ported eaton at 17lbs. kb dyno will have more hp. I bet you the eaton will keep up with the kb if not be faster. Look up big turkeys old videos or talk to some of the old school guys like broke7, venomous john, jimmy vaccaro etc. You have to spin that blower HARD. Plus the crank issue, 8.5.1 compression, 281 cubic inches, I dont know.
 

sicfast

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I haven't been planing on running low boost, with the exception of the drive to the tuner. I figured for a range of 22-27 lbs. as far as the crank issue, are we talking about the snout? Also, I was under the impression that e85 was in the realm of 105oct?
 

03Steve

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Video above is my neighbor's car (Cliff Buerger). He went to the finals last year at the GT500/Terminator Shootout in Bowling Green, KY. 4.6L/4.0L Whipple.

We have about a year of trial and error with the big 4.0L Whipple. We replicated the silver car's 2.3L Whipple engine for the 4.0L Whipple engine. It is holding up very well, and we have a lot of A/B data with just the blower being different.

Cliff has broken some parts. The last one being a stock lower pulley, which was injured for a while looking back at the data. The underhood heat is elevated with the big heat sink, but we have mitigated that with the use of two open headlights and a cowl hood. It helps clear out the engine bay heat, and the driver side open headlight puts a direct shot of cooler air to the alternator.

There are a lot of little tricks to make the big blower work on a 4.6L. Getting the boost level to the lower possible number with cam choice, centerlines, header choice, head work, etc is important. Any blower with a 4" upper and stock lower is a lazy blower. The 4.0L is no different that any other in that sense, as it really starts to shine when you add blower RPM. If you can figure out how to make 25psi or less with the smallest upper pulley possible you will maximize your results.

Good luck...
 
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