2014 GT 500 Catastrophic Engine Failure: Next Steps? Thoughts?

[Mulholland Man]

I'm just on the sideline observing.
I wouldn't let just "any shop" diagnose it.
Trailer it if need be, AED or GTR. Those are the only 2 that I know of in California that know the Mustang/Shelby platform


If it were me, I would do whatever it took to bring it back to life.
No matter the time frame. Years if need be.

These are very good folks nearby to me. They get stuff all the time. Maybe a used factory 5.8 if that's what is determined to get it up and running again

The Parts Farm

Thanks Kona, appreciate the advice! I think I'll be taking it to Addiction Motorsports. Eddie Rios is the tuner and shop owner. Have heard very good things from many people about him including OTHER TUNERS. He works pretty much exclusively on Mustangs and does a lot of Shelby's. That said, I'm not having him tune it. I'll probably have him read my car her last rites and confirm what I already suspect.

 

[biminiLX]

Honestly I feel for you but I’m not sure of the logic of selling it as is, especially before knowing what is wrong.
The quotes you mentioned to remove and diagnose seem to be in line but probably higher due to SoCal.
It seems like you really like the car.
If the heads are healthy, a built shortblock can be safe til 1000hp.
As I mentioned in our PM, my well known tuner has a built 5.8 for about $10k, which would save several thousands over the options many of us use. I personally have the JDM 1200hp engine, which would run you at least $12k
My point, let’s say you have $15k even $20k in this repair. With that, you’ll have an 800hp+ car you already enjoy that has a bullet proof engine.
$25k value as is
$45k value rebuilt and safe at 800hp+
You’ll be spending more on a GT350 and much more on a new GT500. They are both different cars that you may or may not enjoy more than your GT500.
Either way man, good luck. Lots of knowledge on the topic here too.
-J

 

[Mulholland Man]

Booked appointment in 2 weeks to have car evaluated for damage. Tuner/Mechanic said he can assess the level of damage and the needed build cost roughly in 1-2 hours of shop time? Does that even make sense? I'm not a mechanic but it seems like it would take a little more time than that to determine the damage level to the top and bottom ends? I specifically wanted to know if there was damage to the heads, valves, springs, etc. If I'm going to have to rebuild the top end that would definitely increase price.

Note: This is a "New" tuner. He was the guy I was recommended to go to before I took the car to the tuner who led me down the path to blowing up my car. The "old tuner" told me it would cost $2500 to assess and that he would need to take my engine out of the car. Now new tuner telling me he can cost out the build in 1-2 hours without removing engine. There's a disconnect here somewhere.

 

[2011 gtcs]

Booked appointment in 2 weeks to have car evaluated for damage. Tuner/Mechanic said he can assess the level of damage and the needed build cost roughly in 1-2 hours of shop time? Does that even make sense? I'm not a mechanic but it seems like it would take a little more time than that to determine the damage level to the top and bottom ends? I specifically wanted to know if there was damage to the heads, valves, springs, etc. If I'm going to have to rebuild the top end that would definitely increase price.

Note: This is a "New" tuner. He was the guy I was recommended to go to before I took the car to the tuner who led me down the path to blowing up my car. The "old tuner" told me it would cost $2500 to assess and that he would need to take my engine out of the car. Now new tuner telling me he can cost out the build in 1-2 hours without removing engine. There's a disconnect here somewhere.

Interested to see what the damage is, hopefully the block is salvageable, worst case you need to sleeve it

 

[Catmonkey]

Tuner/Mechanic said he can assess the level of damage and the needed build cost roughly in 1-2 hours of shop time? Does that even make sense? I'm not a mechanic but it seems like it would take a little more time than that to determine the damage level to the top and bottom ends?

Not really. With a bore scope you could pretty much tell if there's any piston or cylinder damage, assuming the engine is not seized. If the engine is seized, it's probably a rod, if there are no obvious telltale windows in the block. Anything beyond that is bound to take more time. For example, say you wanted to remove the driver's side valve cover to example the cam, drive chains and sprockets. If you weren't familiar with a GT500, you wouldn't necessarily know that will take more than a couple hours to do. The the brake booster wasn't such a major obstacle it would take no time at all.

 

[Mulholland Man]

Thanks Catmonkey. BTW, your care is stunning. What kind of wheels are those? Love the grill too. Looks like you deleted the chin spoiler as well. Like the look.

 

[Mulholland Man]

2011 GTCS: WAIT A MINUTE. This may sound like a stupid lame question, but do you play "GolfClash?" There is a "Scuba Steve" that plays Clash. You're not him right?

Interested to see what the damage is, hopefully the block is salvageable, worst case you need to sleeve it

 

[Catmonkey]

Thanks Catmonkey. BTW, your care is stunning. What kind of wheels are those? Love the grill too. Looks like you deleted the chin spoiler as well. Like the look.

Thanks! It's a 2012 and the grill and splitter are stock pieces. The wheels are True Forged Competitions. The 13-14 had additional components that bolted onto to the bottom of the front splitter. I had them on for a while, but my car is a little too low to run them.

 

[fearthesnake]

Honestly I feel for you but I’m not sure of the logic of selling it as is, especially before knowing what is wrong.
The quotes you mentioned to remove and diagnose seem to be in line but probably higher due to SoCal.
It seems like you really like the car.
If the heads are healthy, a built shortblock can be safe til 1000hp.
As I mentioned in our PM, my well known tuner has a built 5.8 for about $10k, which would save several thousands over the options many of us use. I personally have the JDM 1200hp engine, which would run you at least $12k
My point, let’s say you have $15k even $20k in this repair. With that, you’ll have an 800hp+ car you already enjoy that has a bullet proof engine.
$25k value as is
$45k value rebuilt and safe at 800hp+
You’ll be spending more on a GT350 and much more on a new GT500. They are both different cars that you may or may not enjoy more than your GT500.
Either way man, good luck. Lots of knowledge on the topic here too.
-J

Obviously, its not my money nor do I know what Mullholland man situation financially is but I'd take that $15K option with a built motor over the $80K or $60K(gt350) all day long and twice on Sundays.
I may be a little bias towards my 13 model though but would love a new GT500, just can't justify that price for my budget and priorities in my life right now.

Having a true 800-850 rwhp street cruiser would be nasty.

 

[GDDYUP]

As Catmonkey stated, get the car diagnosed, find out what the problem is, then figure out what you want to do. In an hour or two with a decent tech and the right tools you should have a damn good idea of what the problem is and what it's going to take to either fix it or decide to sell the car off. At that point, you at least know what's going on and can make an informed decision. Hell, you could buy a cheap boroscope off Amazon that plugs into your phone and take a look yourself. Pull the plugs, fire up the camera, stick it in the hole! If you see a bunch of pieces in any cylinder, bad news. If things look pretty decent in every cylinder, you might not be as bad off as you think.

 

[Norton]

It seems like you really like the car.
If the heads are healthy, a built shortblock can be safe til 1000hp.
As I mentioned in our PM, my well known tuner has a built 5.8 for about $10k, which would save several thousands over the options many of us use. I personally have the JDM 1200hp engine, which would run you at least $12k
My point, let’s say you have $15k even $20k in this repair. With that, you’ll have an 800hp+ car you already enjoy that has a bullet proof engine.
$25k value as is
$45k value rebuilt and safe at 800hp+
You’ll be spending more on a GT350 and much more on a new GT500. They are both different cars that you may or may not enjoy more than your GT500.

Obviously, its not my money nor do I know what Mullholland man situation financially is but I'd take that $15K option with a built motor over the $80K or $60K(gt350) all day long and twice on Sundays.
I may be a little bias towards my 13 model though...

Having a true 800-850 rwhp street cruiser would be nasty.

I agree with all of this. The S550 chassis is never going to grow on me - I prefer the S197's more classic design. At the 7K ft elevation here, forced induction is a must - every vehicle my wife and I own ('13 GT500, '19 C7Z, '18 340ix, and '13 Tacoma) has it. The GT350 fails both the appearance and forced induction requirements. I can't deal without a third pedal, no matter the performance advantage. The new GT500 fails both the appearance and third pedal requirements.

Rebuild and continue enjoying your current GT500.

 

[gimmie11s]

I agree with all of this. The S550 chassis is never going to grown on me - I prefer the S197's more classic design. At the 7K ft elevation here, forced induction is a must - every vehicle my wife and I own ('13 GT500, '19 C7Z, '18 340ix, and '13 Tacoma) has it. The GT350 fails both the appearance and forced induction requirements. I can't deal without a third pedal, no matter the performance advantage. The new GT500 fails both the appearance and third pedal requirements.

Rebuild and continue enjoying your current GT500.

Lol.

 

[efnfast]

I agree with all of this. The S550 chassis is never going to grown on me - I prefer the S197's more classic design. At the 7K ft elevation here, forced induction is a must - every vehicle my wife and I own ('13 GT500, '19 C7Z, '18 340ix, and '13 Tacoma) has it. The GT350 fails both the appearance and forced induction requirements. I can't deal without a third pedal, no matter the performance advantage. The new GT500 fails both the appearance and third pedal requirements.

Rebuild and continue enjoying your current GT500.

it's a shame cars are moving away from manuals ... I refuse to buy any car that isn't a manual. I don't care if the computer can shift better than me, rowing your own gears is just so much more rewarding.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

I agree with all of this. The S550 chassis is never going to grow on me - I prefer the S197's more classic design. At the 7K ft elevation here, forced induction is a must - every vehicle my wife and I own ('13 GT500, '19 C7Z, '18 340ix, and '13 Tacoma) has it. The GT350 fails both the appearance and forced induction requirements. I can't deal without a third pedal, no matter the performance advantage. The new GT500 fails both the appearance and third pedal requirements.

Rebuild and continue enjoying your current GT500.

Gold Star comment of the week ^^

it's a shame cars are moving away from manuals ... I refuse to buy any car that isn't a manual. I don't care if the computer can shift better than me, rowing your own gears is just so much more rewarding.

I daily my 2.0L Turbo Escape. I kinda prefer the auto, with coffee and all that trying to drive.


Wanted to comment to the OP, @Mulholland Man, if you had to get a motor put together and built and/or rebuilt, who would you tap to do it for you? I guess that may be a bridge to far to think about right now too.

 

[2011 gtcs]

2011 GTCS: WAIT A MINUTE. This may sound like a stupid lame question, but do you play "GolfClash?" There is a "Scuba Steve" that plays Clash. You're not him right?

No sir, not me.

 

[biminiLX]

No sir, not me.

So you’re saying we can’t golf next time I’m in Arizona?
And I’m waiting for the post on the new looks
-J

 

[biminiLX]

Gold Star comment of the week ^^




I daily my 2.0L Turbo Escape. I kinda prefer the auto, with coffee and all that trying to drive.


Wanted to comment to the OP, @Mulholland Man, if you had to get a motor put together and built and/or rebuilt, who would you tap to do it for you? I guess that may be a bridge to far to think about right now too.

My tuner Lidio at Alternative Auto has a fresh 5.8 block diamond piston, Manley rod build shortblock he’d like to sell.
I believe the price is $10k and I think it’s 10:1 but he’s reasonable.
-J

 

[2011 gtcs]

So you’re saying we can’t golf next time I’m in Arizona?
And I’m waiting for the post on the new looks
-J

Lol I'm not bad at top golf. But regular golf not so much, when you're in AZ again I'm game for either. And I'm actually driving her today, ill get some good ones.

 

[fearthesnake]

My tuner Lidio at Alternative Auto has a fresh 5.8 block diamond piston, Manley rod build shortblock he’d like to sell.
I believe the price is $10k and I think it’s 10:1 but he’s reasonable.
-J

What type of HP will that motor safely handle for the street?

 

[biminiLX]

What type of HP will that motor safely handle for the street?

Any stock block stock crank motor with good rods/pistons/OPGs should hold 1000-1200hp depending on who you talk to. Many say the cranks flex above 1200hp/7200rpm and same goes for blocks flexing above 1200hp.
I have basically the same motor so I’m keeping it at 1100rwhp.
Basically the motor I posted would save you a few thousand and can be ready to ship within a week.
-J

Contact Lidio at the shop:
Alternaitve Auto – Auto Performance

Best is email:
[email protected]
-J