2013 A6 - What is this?

BlueSmokem5.0

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Also if you guys want to do away with that 4 way ugly check valve just remove and install a new brake booster fitting with a check valve from Advanced auto parts, then connect the steel hard line on your drivers side above the fuel rail with a hose directly to the intake manifold and plug the CAI port that was used.
 

cb900f

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Also if you guys want to do away with that 4 way ugly check valve just remove and install a new brake booster fitting with a check valve from Advanced auto parts, then connect the steel hard line on your drivers side above the fuel rail with a hose directly to the intake manifold and plug the CAI port that was used.
Not a bad idea.
 

JUIC3D

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Thats what im thinking. I have a manual and im swapping to an auto. Im going to just use my stock one from the manual and not change anything.

Yep, thats what I did. I just used the manual trans brake booster line on my auto. No issues to date.
 

cschoening09

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I know this is an old thread but I was searching around and stumbled upon it.

ive done the same apserator valve delete on my auto 2014 when I went with the boss manifold and was looking for solutions to making it work with a manual car JLT intake. I did go to advance auto and got the check valve to put in the brake booster (swapping it with the elbow that's originally in there for auto cars). then I trimmed up the rubber hose (cutting off the ugly aspirator double checkvalve setup as pictured above) and connected it to the boss manifold. . .. with that said the brake and all work "fine" but feel like they're a little more spongy that before. I can feel the abs kick in sometimes if I slam on the brakes after a WoT pull when the rpms are still up there.

just throwing out the info for anyone reading. I may re install my aspirator setup back on the firewall as pictured near the brake booster if I decide I want the brakes to be more responsive again. it is pretty ugly though. but better looking by the firewall than next to the intake manifold
 

mdunn250

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I know its bringing this topic back up, but on my manual 12 that check valve was busted, the retarded ford dealership told me it was aftermarket and they wouldn't replace it, and they didn't know what it was for... Well fast forward a few weeks and I'm at the drag strip and my clutch starts sticking to the floor on high rpm shifts. I'm thinking that part might have something to do with my new problem, I've already replaced the clutch line and assist spring with no luck, my next effort will be the motor mounts and digging into the clutch if this does not work. Especially now since I have the boss im.
 

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