2010 Stage 3 Roush or 2013 Stage 3 Roush

[saleensc281]

Would like some feedback regarding me trading in my 2010 Stage 3 Roush on the 2013 Stage 3 Roush.

I currently own a 2010 Stage 3 Roush #61 of 103. This was the year that Roush used a forged engine, H/D clutch, upgraded fuel system in their Stage 3's. Same powertrain as the P51 models. I have since done basic bolts ons, headers, x pipe, intake, throttle body, smaller pulley, cams, built rear end, aluminum driveshaft, tune, and etc. While this Roush is beast, with just under 12000 miles on it, I have been eyeing the newer 5.0 models.

I have narrowed my search down to two 2013 Stage 3 Roush's one, black with red accents, and the other grabber blue with silver/red accents. Personally I like the look of the 2013's better than the 2010....since I think the latter is rather plain looking. Problem is I am torn on not having a forged engine and beefed up powertrain. I am looking to push no more than 600 to 650 rwhp at the max on the stock block, which I hear can safely be done. I know Roush offers their Phase 3 package which pushes 675 HP, which on a good day would be around 600rwhp. The latter package is warrantied by Roush.

While the 10 is clearly the better built car, and rarer since they only built 103 of them; I love the style of 13/14 and the having the new 5.0 engine.

What would you all recommend, and no, I am not buying a GT500.

 

[DEADLY FORCE]

The connecting rods are very weak on the stock coyote engines, my Roush charged GT broke two and ruined the engine and supercharger head unit. I would keep your factory forged 2010, sounds like a very nice Roush. If you do go with a 2013. Don't hold out on doing a forged shortblock build when you get it. I suggest MMR. What RWHP is the 2010 putting down??

 

[1 Alibi 2]

" What would you all recommend, and no, I am not buying a GT500. "
.
What does the 13 cost ?
What will they give you for your 10 ?
If the difference makes sense to you, go for it.
.
......................I would be the last one to suggest buying a Shelby !!

 

[kevinatfms]

keep the 2010 and put a bigger blower on it.

 

[PC03GT]

I would keep the 10. If you like the look of the 13 change the bumper and hood.

 

[getTwisted]

Would you sale the Roush straight up to somebody before your trade it in? and how much? Just curious my buddy talked about buying one.

Edit: and sorry I don't have any input on either car.

 

[MNCobra]

why not buy a 2014 Aluminator Roush Stage 3? that way you get the same looks as the 13 but with a forged motor...

 

[oldstv]

I have a 10 Roush Hammer "one of 53 total" with all the mods that you did and the Magnum xl. Personally I love the fact that the 2010 year model cars that Roush built are so rare and unique. But being unique is kinda what I am into in the car world. If that's not you then get what you like and enjoy it. That's a hard call for someone to make for you.

 

[Dirks9901]

I would keep the '10. RH/S3 in that year are awesome.

 

[Prototype007]

Another vote to keep the 2010 model.

 

[Troponin]

Plenty of Coyotes are supercharged, don't have any issues, and Ford has no issues with warrantying the modified engines. A conservative tune, as the Roush has, putting it at 575hp, should be plenty reliable. The connecting rods seem to become an issue with guys going over 600hp. I Have yet to hear of any common issue under 600

That said, in terms of rare, well, I can tell you, even in my town, where there are lots of unique cars, I have yet to come across a Roush beyond suspension work and wheels. You're still in a very rare car.

I am a performance junkie myself. This would be a no brainer if I were making the choice, but, you even said so yourself, you are in to the rarity.

 

[CobraBob]

Only you can make the decision, but if it were me, unless the car had higher miles, I'd stick with the '10 Roush. For all the "positive" reasons you gave, including the mods you've added. While I agree the '13 is a bit nicer looking overall, the '10 is still a good looking car. JMO.

 

[saleensc281]

The connecting rods are very weak on the stock coyote engines, my Roush charged GT broke two and ruined the engine and supercharger head unit. I would keep your factory forged 2010, sounds like a very nice Roush. If you do go with a 2013. Don't hold out on doing a forged shortblock build when you get it. I suggest MMR. What RWHP is the 2010 putting down??

Making 609rwhp and 535 trq on 21lbs of boost.

" What would you all recommend, and no, I am not buying a GT500. "
.
What does the 13 cost ?
What will they give you for your 10 ?
If the difference makes sense to you, go for it.
.
......................I would be the last one to suggest buying a Shelby !!

I am actually looking at 13 and 14 models. Prices of the latter are ranging from $48k to $53k.

As far as trade in value for mine, I have had offers from $41k to $35k.

Being an owner of two Shelbys, of course you would, but you being a prior Roush owner I respect your opinion.

Would you sale the Roush straight up to somebody before your trade it in? and how much? Just curious my buddy talked about buying one.

Edit: and sorry I don't have any input on either car.

I would consider it, if we could come to terms on a price.

why not buy a 2014 Aluminator Roush Stage 3? that way you get the same looks as the 13 but with a forged motor...

I would, but the prices on them are just too high right now.


I could put the 13/14 hood, front and rear fasia and etc...but I think that would take away from the car being a '10. Just my thoughts.

In all honesty the best bet would be to hang on to mine for few more years and by then if a Alumintor could be found buy one.. While the 15 Stage 3's will be production by then, it will still have the same non-forged internals, so not too keen on buying one of those. I am not sure if Roush plans on releasing a 15+ Aluminator. Roush really went all out in making the 10 Stage 3's and RH's, a very smart move using a low compression (unlike the Aluminator) forged engine.

Thanks for the feedback guys, I appreciate it.

 

[DEADLY FORCE]

From my understanding, the 2015 mustang GT is suppose to have stronger connecting rods than previous years. Similar to the Boss. Wish Ford would sell a forged bottom-end optioned GT for whatever the extra cost would be. Call it part of the track pack option. I bet it would sell.

 

[skipper630]

I am pretty sure that Roush only offers the powertrain warranty on the Phase 1 with a Roush tune. They do not offer powertrain on Phase 2 or 3. Even the aluminator is only warrantied for Phase 1. An aftermarket tune will void your warranty regardless of what phase. Note that Roush may offer a 90 day parts warranty for Phase 2 or 3, but that should not be confused with a power train warranty.

I found this out the hard way on my 5xr. I was running Phase 2 with an aftermarket tune when pistons 6 and 7 failed. The car was putting down 555 rwhp (4th gear pull) and the datalog numbers were all conservative. The failure occurred at 9500 miles and the car had been driven conservatively, taken to shows, never really abused. I am not going to mention the tuner because I don't think it was their fault.

Roush uses the 11 to 1 Aluminator in their cars and you have Roush warranty assuming you keep it at Phase 1. The aluminator crate motor also has a Ford warranty (24month?) but I suspect that it is voided when you use the 11 to 1 in a supercharged application.

I now have a forged MMR shortblock. It sucks that I had to pay for it out of pocket, but at least now I have a forged platform. MMR also gave me a warranty. Will they find a loophole if I have a problem? I hope to never find out.



If I were you, I would not give up your 2010 for a non forged coyote.