2010 GT 500 Wheel Hop Solutions?

Sielmo

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Hello all.
I've read a few threads regarding this subject specifically focused on modified suspensions so I apologize if this this post largely overlaps previous discussions.
I am happy with the suspension characteristics overall other than the wheel hop under "spirited" first gear starts. My Shelby suspension is completely stock to include the tires which I plan on changing to Michelin PSS in a few months. I want to keep the suspension as stock as possible since I do mostly good natured daily driving and want to minimize the amount of "non-stock" parts...bottom line, I'm looking to improve and enhance what exists. With that said, I have done the typical performance engine/exhaust upgrades resulting in 585WHP. I have read a bit about the Roush Wheel Hop Kit as well as various LCA recommendations. My questions are:

Would the Roush kit be the best option to reduce/solve my wheel hop issue?
Any adverse results with going with this kit?
Alternative kits recommended?

Thank you for your feedback.
 

Coonsnake

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Call BMR suspension and ask to speak to Kelly. He will have the solution to your problems. FWIW, you just need some new UCA and LCAs
 

IronTerp

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I have the Roush Upper Control Arm and have not had wheel hop since the install four years ago. Simple bolt on modification, reasonably priced, and no increase in NVH. I have the same RHWP as you do.
 

Kevin P

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I second the experience from IronTerp. The Roush UCA is an excellent solution.
 

Phantomhalo

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+1 for BMR! That's what I have and they work great. I've heard/read great things about the Roush UCA as well. Either way I don't think you can't go wrong!
 

fmylife

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Maybe my '08 is a freak but the only time I had wheel hop was with the original crappy Goodyears. I've got 285-30-20 Continental ExtremeContact DWS' on the rear now and if I really lay into it, it'll spin without hopping every where. That'll probably change with stickier tires later though.
 

RedVenom48

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+10000 for BMR suspensions. Didnt have too much trouble with hopping (stock goodyears though) but swapped upper with mount and lower control arms to polys and the back end just STICKS in the corners. Oh yeah, if you have a differential going south on you, it will help identify that too. Be prepaired, poly control arms will transmit some more road noise into the cabin.

Also, you can switch to the 2011+ upper mount and run the 2011+ arm. Better geometry from what I can gather than 07-10.
 

Sielmo

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Thanks all!,
Sounds like BMR and Roush have solid votes for both of their products/solutions for solving this wheel hop. I rarely romp hard on it but when I do (usually from taunting by Corvette show-offs), I'd rather not feel like I'm riding a rodeo horse.
 

JimIII@jdm

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First we always recommend BMR, but if you want something simple that should really take care of most of your wheel hop. Just do the Roush anti-wheel hop kit as recommended. It is a modified version of the stock upper control arm that has been reinforced and adds a stiffer durometer bushing. Simple, no change in ride quality or added NVH.
 

einehund

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I have a 2010 that had HORRIBLE wheel hop at the track. I swapped out my LCAs with BMR pieces and the hop went away. Best part is it takes all of 20 minutes to swap out, so if you keep your stock parts, you can swap them back on easily.
 

Steve@BAS

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Made in our own shop, not out sourced like the other guys, higher quality and lower price.

http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Billet-lower-control-arms-2005-14-Mustang-lower-control-arms-05.htm

$219 shipped

14114771050001916282999.jpeg
 

Sielmo

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First we always recommend BMR, but if you want something simple that should really take care of most of your wheel hop. Just do the Roush anti-wheel hop kit as recommended. It is a modified version of the stock upper control arm that has been reinforced and adds a stiffer durometer bushing. Simple, no change in ride quality or added NVH.

Thanks Jim.

BTW, Love the SC upgrade kit I bought from you all. It was so easy, My 11 yro daughter helped with the install to include reinstalling the SC pulley...and as a proof, I sent Nick the pictures.

I'll keep this in mind for the LCAs. As mentioned, I'm looking at the conservative approach and will go from there. Simple bolt-ons appeal to me over committing (in this case, the recommendation of welding brackets) to a solution that I cannot realistically reverse.
 

JimIII@jdm

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Thanks Jim.

BTW, Love the SC upgrade kit I bought from you all. It was so easy, My 11 yro daughter helped with the install to include reinstalling the SC pulley...and as a proof, I sent Nick the pictures.

I'll keep this in mind for the LCAs. As mentioned, I'm looking at the conservative approach and will go from there. Simple bolt-ons appeal to me over committing (in this case, the recommendation of welding brackets) to a solution that I cannot realistically reverse.

Haha that is great I will have to ask Nick to show me the pictures. Let me know if there is anything we can help with, we do sell both the BMR parts and Roush. You can do the Roush anti wheel hop kit or BMR LCA's to achieve your goal and both are direct bolt on easy to reverse install parts!
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

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I'm running BAS LCAs. I either get hook or pure wheel spin if I over power it, no hop. So smooth when spinning, it's hard to believe they are! No aded NVH I could detect, and I like the greaseable bushings.
 

billabong333

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I have an 11 and mine did the same. I thought something was wrong with my car but for me it was just the stock goodyears. I put on some nittos and everything was good.
 

heatsoaked12

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Jut for curiosity, look and see what kind of lowers you have now. I drove mine new off the dealer lot and now years later it turns out my 12 track pack had standard lowers (the ones without the riveted in supports or hi durometer bushings. I put the steeda lowers in and the wheel hop was just as bad with extra vibration and noise from the rear.
 

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