2003 Cobra IRS to 8.8 Live Axle Swap (DETAILS & PICS)

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postban

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Originally posted by plan b
Dave, I have to say the rearend looks good under the car. Exhaust sounds nice as well. How much weight was shaved off due to the new rearend?

Well, I never weighed it before or yet. Soap said the difference was 349 (IRS) to 149 (8.8).

MysticBob says 122lb diff:shrug:

I conclude is is somewhere between 200 and 122 pounds lighter:dw:
 

32VHEMIJR

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Takes more time to read that post than it does to do a swap.:eek:
Looks like the most expensive way to go about it too.
 

j card

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Just a note to add:

You mentioned how some people use 9" ends on the axle tubes with the bearings for the 9" also - the primary reason I have heard for this is that the 8.8 setup will destroy rear axles and bearings in a road-race application - I had to replace them twice. The 9" setup handles the side-loading much better and will last. For a street or drag car, it may not be that necessary - if you plan on tracking it on a road course with sticky tires, I would highly recommend doing the 9" ends and bearings - it will save you money in the long run.
 

JB

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Originally posted by 32VHEMIJR
Takes more time to read that post than it does to do a swap.:eek:
Looks like the most expensive way to go about it too.

so when can we expect your new, improved writeup?? :)
 
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78mphgpr

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Originally posted by j card
Just a note to add:

You mentioned how some people use 9" ends on the axle tubes with the bearings for the 9" also - the primary reason I have heard for this is that the 8.8 setup will destroy rear axles and bearings in a road-race application - I had to replace them twice. The 9" setup handles the side-loading much better and will last. For a street or drag car, it may not be that necessary - if you plan on tracking it on a road course with sticky tires, I would highly recommend doing the 9" ends and bearings - it will save you money in the long run.
The 9" ends also save you from having to use C clip eliminators because they use backing plates.
 

dougwg

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HEY DAVE...

get some slicks and you just might look like this
P5157750.jpg


Oh... and a better clutch... and a rollbar... ;-)
 
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alex46stang

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@When doing the swap and replacing the flange to keep the original driveshaft on the cobra do you need new u joints
 

postban

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Originally posted by alex46stang
@When doing the swap and replacing the flange to keep the original driveshaft on the cobra do you need new u joints

NO
 

sn8kbite

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I beleave you can buy a housing already built to your specs from currie enterprises.
tubes already welded and 9" ends installed if thats what you want.
No need to spend 750 bucks for a bunch of parts you arent gonna use anyway,and then pay someone to weld your tubes and install 9" bearing ends.
 

Wings65288

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damn nice write up, i wanna do this to my snake. how long will it take my step dad and i to do this? i'm not so knowledable on cars but hes really knowledable. oh and we don't have a lift, just jacks and rhino ramps
 
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postban

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Wings65288 said:
damn nice write up, i wanna do this to my snake. how long will it take my step dad and i to do this? i'm not so knowledable on cars but hes really knowledable. oh and we don't have a lift, just jacks and rhino ramps

Do you drag race A WHOLE LOT? Like more than 10 times a year? If not I would not reccomend this mod.

I would estimate 4hrs for me and two friends to do it.

It will seriously change the ride in the car. I did not like the feel.
I sold the car I did this to and am building a Level 5 IRS coupe.
 

Wings65288

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well thats the thing, i'm all for the IRS myself but what i don't like is lugging that extra 125 pounds of weight. and yea i will be tracking this car and be putting out some serious HP with a Twin Turbo kit next year or sooner if i can, and still use it as a daily driver. i just want the best traction possible for serious horse power, can anyone help me out or guide me in the right direction as far as which setup to choose? thanks for that reply postban
 

postban

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Wings65288 said:
bump, anyone know if it will be able to handle TT HP?

You should not be able to break this rear end on stock internals if you build one similar to mine. Once you get to 800+ rwhp I think you should start looking for a 9" rear. Above is refferring to racing abuse. The weak point of the 8.8 is the axle tube, that is why there are braces like the CHE and the PHP set. The tubes can twist and crack the pumpkin at that power level. Second weakest point is the cast pumpkin.
 

Wings65288

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ok, when i wanna go with a 9" rear does it get pretty expensive and complicating? and could it be something i could do now with just 400 HP?
 

Dana

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Wings65288 said:
ok, when i wanna go with a 9" rear does it get pretty expensive and complicating? and could it be something i could do now with just 400 HP?
Sure, you COULD do it now at 400 HP, but it would be a waste of time and money to do a 9 inch rear.
As Postban said, the 8.8 will handle a LOT of power.

And yes, doing the 9 inch for a Cobra does get really expensive and complicated.
Not to mention the extra weight the 9 inch has.

Dana
 

JP

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Dana said:
Sure, you COULD do it now at 400 HP, but it would be a waste of time and money to do a 9 inch rear.
As Postban said, the 8.8 will handle a LOT of power.

And yes, doing the 9 inch for a Cobra does get really expensive and complicated.
Not to mention the extra weight the 9 inch has.

Dana

Save your $$$$$$$$$ for now like Dana said.
You Will only go backwards if you do this with 400HP.

JP
 

bogner46

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If I could find a Mach 1 8.8 wouldn't that be the easiest way to get a rearend that will drop in?
 
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