Chris will you pick the pace so you can work on my Daily Driver, enough of these fancy mods.:bash:
1BAD96SVT's build thread - 11/11 forged motor
- Thread starter 95PGTTech
- Start date
You'll appreciate it when it's the Fox getting the special touches. Or fixing the issues with the not daily driver.
Finished up the S/C bracket and got a belt length today. Forgot camera. Also, progress on secret project is now 95% and pics will be up soon, possibly tomorrow. A friend at work offered to powdercoat the bracket I made and the Procharger bracket a new chrome color he has and wants to try (didn't like his old chrome). Sure, why not, I was just going to hit it flat black and the Procharger bracket now has plenty of weld burns and torch marks.
Loctite on the supercharger studs, just a quick shot of how the new bracket mounts to the blower and S/C bracket.
8 rib A/C coil and clutch arrive.
The coil is a press-on type deal.
Ground down that last upper timing cover boss to allow the bolt to be installed and clear the S/C pulley.
Finally remembered to remove the now deleted EGR equipment.
Used a tie down strap to get a belt length. 117.25" with no compression on the tensioner, 113.75 fully compressed. I'd like something on the tight side of the range, and it seems 1145K8 is the only commercially available belt length.
I need to space out the stock idler farther as I wasn't happy with the belt going over it a bit on the outside lip. Of course, it's the one pulley mounted on a boss, so I'll have to machine something.
Wrapped up the bracket today. After adding the top ear, I felt I was really pushing it with the angles and decided to triangulate it back to the bracket. I then added a belt guard that goes around the S/C pulley. It was a difficult balance of trying to keep it as close as possible to the pulley to allow it to be as long as possible without hitting other accessories while still allowing belt installation and removal. The purpose is pretty obvious - protect the coolant crossover from a belt failure. I'd rather not lose the motor from a belt issue. One shot on the backside of the Prochager bracket to give you some idea of how it sits (between the bracket and the engine). I was going to hit it with flat black, but a coworker who powdercoats offered to try a new chrome powder he has been wanting to try before doing his Corvette wheels. Free = good price.
Also finalized one of the secret projects today, a rework of the engine harness. Deleted the IMRC, EGR, DPFE connectors and took about two feet out of the coilpack/COP conversion harness. I didn't just cut the wires to the connectors, I depinned them, removed the connectors, heat shrunk the pins, and wrapped them into the harness so (I can't imagine a reason) if it needed to be put back, it could be. DEPIN:
Start unwrapping and organizing.
Just some of the crap removed.
Pins heat shrunk and tied tight.
Getting better.
Almost completely stripped, you can start to see the confusion.
Soldered and heat shrunk electrical connections - the only choice.
More pile o crap!
Finally got those coil connectors out of it.
Just part of the conversion harness ditched.
Side note...still trying to figure out what angle the camshaft sensor/fuse box section of the engine harness goes at.
Knock sensor harness integrated, shortened about 6"
Another pile:
Seriously?
Fixed.
After five test fits and a couple changes, all loomed, taped, and installed. I'm not sure anyone would notice that it is not a stock wiring harness, and that's exactly how I'd like it to be.
Pooped, time for a day off. The few issues left (spacing idler, Loctite S/C studs, install belt, powdercoat brackets) are irrelevant to the motor going in. The plan of attack is get the brake booster and master in and get the powertrain reinstalled possibly Tuesday night/Wednesday. Lots more to do once the powertrain is in the car before this thing will run (boosted, at least).
8 rib A/C coil and clutch arrive.
The coil is a press-on type deal.
Ground down that last upper timing cover boss to allow the bolt to be installed and clear the S/C pulley.
Finally remembered to remove the now deleted EGR equipment.
Used a tie down strap to get a belt length. 117.25" with no compression on the tensioner, 113.75 fully compressed. I'd like something on the tight side of the range, and it seems 1145K8 is the only commercially available belt length.
I need to space out the stock idler farther as I wasn't happy with the belt going over it a bit on the outside lip. Of course, it's the one pulley mounted on a boss, so I'll have to machine something.
Wrapped up the bracket today. After adding the top ear, I felt I was really pushing it with the angles and decided to triangulate it back to the bracket. I then added a belt guard that goes around the S/C pulley. It was a difficult balance of trying to keep it as close as possible to the pulley to allow it to be as long as possible without hitting other accessories while still allowing belt installation and removal. The purpose is pretty obvious - protect the coolant crossover from a belt failure. I'd rather not lose the motor from a belt issue. One shot on the backside of the Prochager bracket to give you some idea of how it sits (between the bracket and the engine). I was going to hit it with flat black, but a coworker who powdercoats offered to try a new chrome powder he has been wanting to try before doing his Corvette wheels. Free = good price.
Also finalized one of the secret projects today, a rework of the engine harness. Deleted the IMRC, EGR, DPFE connectors and took about two feet out of the coilpack/COP conversion harness. I didn't just cut the wires to the connectors, I depinned them, removed the connectors, heat shrunk the pins, and wrapped them into the harness so (I can't imagine a reason) if it needed to be put back, it could be. DEPIN:
Start unwrapping and organizing.
Just some of the crap removed.
Pins heat shrunk and tied tight.
Getting better.
Almost completely stripped, you can start to see the confusion.
Soldered and heat shrunk electrical connections - the only choice.
More pile o crap!
Finally got those coil connectors out of it.
Just part of the conversion harness ditched.
Side note...still trying to figure out what angle the camshaft sensor/fuse box section of the engine harness goes at.
Knock sensor harness integrated, shortened about 6"
Another pile:
Seriously?
Fixed.
After five test fits and a couple changes, all loomed, taped, and installed. I'm not sure anyone would notice that it is not a stock wiring harness, and that's exactly how I'd like it to be.
Pooped, time for a day off. The few issues left (spacing idler, Loctite S/C studs, install belt, powdercoat brackets) are irrelevant to the motor going in. The plan of attack is get the brake booster and master in and get the powertrain reinstalled possibly Tuesday night/Wednesday. Lots more to do once the powertrain is in the car before this thing will run (boosted, at least).
Very nice attn.to detail,the clean up of that wiring Harness is typical of mike's jig rigging:bash: (LOL!)Can't wait to finally see it up and running (but take your time ),Plenty of time till the '11 season starts,Don't let lou sweat you his time will come.
From the sounds of it I should just move up to Long Island and set up a shop and drop the Acura gig, LOL! An inch of snow on the ground so far, want some of it to melt so I can get this powertrain back in the car Tues/Wed. Wife took off Wed. to use up her vacation days so I'd like to be home by noon but would at least like to get motor/trans bolted into vehicle and ready to start wiring/cooling/etc.
If you did that you'd probably never rest with your prices and attn.to detail the customers would come running to you.BTW cost ofliving here would force you to raise your rates no doubt.!Cya,TonyG
Getting the motor ready for install.
I've lifted 4.6's in the past like this, but it's a really uncomfortable setup.
Got the springs out and everything disconnected from the K.
A run to Fastenal, I was going to make a plate I've made previously that bolts to the lower intake and has loops to lift on (don't know where I lost that).
They had the external snap ring I needed for the A/C compressor pulley that Ford wanted $8 for.
One less issue to deal with, A/C compressor clutch clearance was within specifications.
K on floor.
Tried a new method by lifting the K with the forklift up under the engine stand, then removing stand. Worked pretty good overall.
Flywheel, clutch, new pilot bearing installed. Random wash guys love to help out after hours and feel like they are real mechanics - just don't let them touch anything important.
Got the trans installed despite leaving my clutch alignment tool at home...that was not fun. Almost forgot to install the engine plate, have made that mistake in the past. The passenger side header needed to be loosened even with the motor out of the car.
Gives you some idea of the reinstall. Between having three sets of eyes, the forklift being able to lift upward, the lift being able to come downward, and the pallets allowing for some amount of shoving the assembly left/right, it was a fairly straightforward install. Removing the front bumper and crash beam allowed just that little bit more room needed.
Put the lift up and the engine went with the car, must have done it right.
Wrapped it up for the night and got everybody tight.
Forgot to put in the steering shaft while going together, so I have to pull it through the firewall tomorrow.
passenger side longtube is damn close to the K member in some places, I'll try and move the mounts around a bit tomorrow.
Driveshaft in and put up for the night. So far ahead of schedule, I might get home by noon tomorrow (day off).
I've lifted 4.6's in the past like this, but it's a really uncomfortable setup.
Got the springs out and everything disconnected from the K.
A run to Fastenal, I was going to make a plate I've made previously that bolts to the lower intake and has loops to lift on (don't know where I lost that).
They had the external snap ring I needed for the A/C compressor pulley that Ford wanted $8 for.
One less issue to deal with, A/C compressor clutch clearance was within specifications.
K on floor.
Tried a new method by lifting the K with the forklift up under the engine stand, then removing stand. Worked pretty good overall.
Flywheel, clutch, new pilot bearing installed. Random wash guys love to help out after hours and feel like they are real mechanics - just don't let them touch anything important.
Got the trans installed despite leaving my clutch alignment tool at home...that was not fun. Almost forgot to install the engine plate, have made that mistake in the past. The passenger side header needed to be loosened even with the motor out of the car.
Gives you some idea of the reinstall. Between having three sets of eyes, the forklift being able to lift upward, the lift being able to come downward, and the pallets allowing for some amount of shoving the assembly left/right, it was a fairly straightforward install. Removing the front bumper and crash beam allowed just that little bit more room needed.
Put the lift up and the engine went with the car, must have done it right.
Wrapped it up for the night and got everybody tight.
Forgot to put in the steering shaft while going together, so I have to pull it through the firewall tomorrow.
passenger side longtube is damn close to the K member in some places, I'll try and move the mounts around a bit tomorrow.
Driveshaft in and put up for the night. So far ahead of schedule, I might get home by noon tomorrow (day off).
that is awesomeee! just curious how did you get that gauge on your fuel rail. i would love to put that one my cobra!
Got the springs out and everything disconnected from the K.
Random wash guys love to help out after hours and feel like they are real mechanics - just don't let them touch anything important.
Put the lift up and the engine went with the car, must have done it right.
I've never dropped a K-member before, but is that the fastest way to drop it?
and lol at those two sentences haha
It's almost releaving to see it coming together again I bet
Ha. Definitely did that when I put my car back together. That sucked, especially since my twin disk has so many shims you have to be careful to get back in exactly the right place.
Looks like you do nice work! I like what you did with the engine harness!
correct. probably swap to a thumper with the F1A, if this thing doesn't break first. the belt we'll be using just about max's the tensioner.
plugged the fitting on the BBK regulator with a 1/8 NPT fitting. Bought the Autometer gauge with 1/8 NPT male, removed scrader valve from fuel rail, and purchased LS1 rail adapter. The rails need to be heated considerably and bent to allow the adapter and gauge to clear the upper lid. You can use a 90 degree fitting, extension, and put the gauge on the regulator to face it upward but I think this is a cleaner finish that will allow easy reading/adjustment on the dyno.
The fastest way I've found to date. Wheels off, calipers off and hang them, wheel wells out (in a rush, pull down and disconnect the ABS wires with a door panel popper), ABS sensor wires disconnected and hung, rotors off, loosen inner front LCA bolts, pull swaybar, strut bolts, pull springs. K is now held in by the two 18mm large bolts near the spring perch and two small 15mm bolts at the backside on each side of the car. You can leave the springs in and drop it by taking the upper shock bolts off and taking it down with the shocks on it but I am not comfortable with those springs still being loaded. Put support tool of choice under K member, lower car, secure, remove those 8 bolts, raise car back up. You can use a forklift, some jack stands sitting on the ground, a trans jack, a floor jack with a creative wood block setup, or the Ford "cart" that the K member actually bolts to and is rated to support K, engine, and trans. I see a lot of people doing jobs like longtubes struggling around the K when it is super easy to use a top side bridge to support and lift the powertrain and drop the K and have it on the floor in 35 minutes and then you have all the room in the world to work.
I banged out five hours on my day off today, got what I wanted to get done. shifter in
Disconnected the steering shaft from the column (10mm bolt), took the isolator out of the firewall (2x11mm nut) and slid the shaft back into the car, then back down into the correct place. Not too much drama.
Played with a few positions of the motor to get more clearance out of the longtubes on the passenger side. Mike really wants this motor level, so I ended up using two spacers on each side for about a 1/8" total lift, while still keeping the motor centered and level.
Front suspension bolted back up. The brake lines are twisted, I'll fix that when I bleed the brakes.
I realized that in my rush yesterday to get this thing in while I still had additional eyes/hands I put the K member bolt washers in "wrong." They're in correctly, the tabs just don't overhang the lip, which bothered the hell out of me to the point where I spent the time to fix them. See if you can spot the before/after. Yes, I have issues.
Passenger side valve cover gasketed, RTV'd, and installed.
Same for the DAMN driver side.
Lower intake, IMRC, fuel rails installed.
Upper lid, throttle cable, cruise cable.
Alternator, coolant crossover, engine wiring harness, heater hoses.
I'm glad I did the rewire. On the passenger side it was pretty open already, and now with the delete of the DPFE and EGR, it would have been really ugly up here with the extra wiring. I think I achieved a clean OEM look.
Is it me or does the car look even more menacing with the engine in it?
WOW you got a lot done since the last update. Well done sir. :beer:
As anal as you are I'm surprised that you didn't make the engine oil cap sit level. lol.
As anal as you are I'm surprised that you didn't make the engine oil cap sit level. lol.
I did shortly after taking the picture. Also notice the oil dipstick. Not even kidding, I have a problem.
stk: the pulley ratio is less aggressive than was on it before, and the belt wrap better (bigger upper/bigger lower). My experience with these older cars is that the tensioner issues are not as prevalent as the belt routing is different (as opposed to say a 3V).
I did notice but alas the orientation of the cap stuck out in my mind more. Do you have any plans to swap out the rusty bolts (such as the EGR blockoff) for new ones or perhaps sand and paint them?
Powdercoat was a serious consideration. Brass plating or nickel anodizing to retrieve the OEM "goldish" color was also a thought. Price will likely determine the outcome, as there is some sort of budget to this build (albeit a large one).
Thanks for the quick how-to. I was thinking about possibly dropping it while supporting the engine from fender supports so I could change the rod bearings as preventative maintenance.. not sure about that one though lol. I've thought about just taking the top strut bolt off and lowering the K-member down with the struts still connected to the knuckles, but really what would be preventing the spring from unwinding? I mean the strut can no longer be holding the knuckle and with it the lower control arm tight against the spring between the k-member, right? Forgive me, I haven't worked on my car in a while lol.
Glad to hear that lower steering column shaft is so easy to change, might be going to an 03 cobra lower shaft if that turns out to be the part with the slop in it.
You got a lot done man, nice job! Btw, the K-member washer tabs on one of mine is like that. It was like 9 at night and the closing manager at my dealership was waiting for me so I just tightened everything down real fast after changing my motor mounts, but intend on fixing it lol. Just because that's how it's supposed to be I guess, so you aren't the only one lol
just curious mike why you went with this setup. looks like alot of money you are putting into this and if it was within your budget why didnt you go 03-04 roots style with a whipple?, very nice setup ya got goin though, cant wait to see it out in person!!
Yes, your method would be fine, this was my reference to a "topside bridge." I wouldn't be changing out your rod bearings if there wasn't something hurt, never had a problem with them on modulars. The shaft is likely the cause of your play, very popular issue. I'd suggest a MM solid if you can spring for it, been through modified stock to solid, 03/04, and MM solid and by far MM solid was the best.
As far as your idea of disconnecting the top strut bolt, yes that is what I was referring to. The front LCAs if not loosened the bushings will resist the spring from completely shooting out. Or if you have some type of support that goes not only under the K but under the LCAs and supports them from being shot downward (like a pallet on a forklift).
Customer choice, his money. FWIW, 03-04 setups are going to have the same problems with the pistons that this motor did, just at a later point. It's arguable where, but I won't put a street car much past 700rwhp on a stock 03 shortblock. This one is built to 1000 by a builder that will warranty it if there are no signs of detonation. We had the option of a used 03 motor for $2000 or complete engine for $3000, but had no history of the motor. For the options Mike is discussing in the future, we might need every bit of that 1000 capability.
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