1996-1998 Ford Racing Supercharger

sneaky98gt

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2010
Messages
9
Location
NC State University
I know this thread is a little old, but I thought I'd bring it back for anyone wanting to know any more details.

Here is a link on "stang net" that a guy has one of these for sale. In the post another guy that's done the install chimes in with a nice laundry list of whats needed to do an install with this system.

SVO Supercharger for 4.6L 2v - Mustang Forums at StangNet

Yup, I'm the guy that chimed in there that has done the install. That list is pretty accurate.

To the OP, if the kit you buy does NOT come with all the hardware/brackets, you need to be prepared to make them yourself. You can't just buy them from somewhere. They weren't all that hard, but it does require a little finesse and the tools to do it (welder, saw, grinder, drill press, scrap metal to use, etc). I'm by no means a professional, just a 20 year old college student that grew up on a farm with access to all those tools and a lot of patience. A few days of cutting/welding/fitting/adjusting/repeating and I had all of them made.

This blower at 6-7 pounds of boost will make more power than a PI swap, by a good amount. It will certainly result in a much broader torque curve (read: FUN!), and will leave the potential to make a LOT more, but will probably be more expensive. I'll break it down:

1. SVO blower on stock NPI heads. I spent pretty much $2000 on the blower/install/tune. I already had PI cams, a CAI, Procharger, and SCT programmer. It was pullied for 7is pounds of boost (3.48 inch diameter pulley). Most important to remember: I have an AUTOMATIC transmission. On a cool day, it made 325 rwhp and 335 rwtq, uncorrected on a Dynojet. In similar weather, with STOCK 3.27 gears and STOCK stall converter and full weight, it went 12.57 @ 109.51 mph. Not shabby at all. In hotter weather, it normally went 13.0-13.3 @ 104-107 mph. I know of people that have run bottom 12s with stock NPI heads, PI cams, more boost, meth kit, gears, etc. Pretty much my setup maxed out.

2. PI swap with stock PI cams. Much cheaper. Nowadays, PI heads/cams can be had for <$400, and the time you include miscellaneous stuff like gaskets and the like, it'll be in the $600 range. This combo usually makes 260-280 rwhp with the same bolt-ons I have. The fastest time I've ever heard of with a setup like this was 13.1 @ 104, and that was with a 5-speed and gears. I doubt that car would have gone faster than 13.6-13.7 with an auto and stock gears.

3. #2 + cams. It then starts getting much more expensive. $600 for the cams, $200 for degreeing them like they should be, $300 for a tune, plus the cost of #2, and we're looking at $1700+. This would probably get 310-320 rwhp. I've heard of a car with this particular setup going 12.5-12.6, but once again, that was with a 5-speed and gears.

4. I recently realized a 4th option that I hadn't really considered until now. Full PI motor swap. It sounds bad, but it does have quite a few advantages. You get the PI heads, as well as all mod options that the NPI guys don't have (Kenne Bell, Tork Tech, turbo kits, etc.), without the boost-unfriendly bump in compression. And chances are that all of your NPI aftermarket parts will work on the PI motor as well.

So it's up to you to decide what you want to do. There are definitely pros and cons for each route. If you have a higher mileage NPI motor, I'd suggest looking into option 4. If I would have thought about that a couple of years ago, it's almost definitely what I would have done. $750 for a PI motor + $3250 for the Tork Tech Terminator Blower Kit = $000 for an intercooled, positive displacement blown 400 rwhp 96-98 Mustang. Pretty sweet deal if you ask me.


Recently, I put in a set of blower cams and meth kit to compliment my setup. There's a long story to explain the dyno numbers (or lack there of), but I'll leave it out unless you really want to know. On an 80 degree day, it made 344 rwhp and 351 rwtq, uncorrected. Doesn't sound like much of a gain, but I picked up 3 mph in the 1/8th with no methanol. I think with similar weather as my best pre-cams pass at the same track, it would have gone 12.1-12.2.

But alas, I lost some rings due to detonation. I guess if you play with fire long enough (I've made over 500 passes on my car, over 200 with the blower), you wind up burned. I'm currently in the process of swapping in a complete PI motor. I will be re-using the blower and cams, as well as going up to around 9 pounds of boost. I will definitely post up about it after I get it tuned, but I suspect it will make 380+ rwhp with cool weather.
 

LilRoush

M112'd Roush x2
Established Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Messages
423
Location
South FL
Here are a couple of other pics I found of the alt bracket/location.
One thing I find interesting is how much belt wrap there is (or isn't) on the blower pulley - yet I've never had belt slip issues. On my V6 set up, I've got much more, and it still slips a little at WOT. Not really much room to increase the size of the idlers to get more contact, though.

DSC02143.jpg


DSC02233.jpg


DSC02237.jpg


DSC02144.jpg


DSC02234.jpg


DSC02141.jpg
 
Last edited:

sneaky98gt

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2010
Messages
9
Location
NC State University
Yea, I've heard you can go all the way down to a 2.9" pulley with this blower on the stock 6-rib setup before you have any slip issues. I think the fact that we aren't having to push that boost through an intercooler helps a lot with the belt slip.
 

LilRoush

M112'd Roush x2
Established Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Messages
423
Location
South FL
Must be something 'magic' going on with this set up - I've never had an issue.

I ran a 2.8" pulley with a 6 rib on my V6, but had a lot more belt wrap than this. Even if you wanted to mess with idler size, there is no space. Both are so close to touching other things already, you can't go bigger without relocating them.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread



Top