170k miles worth of different clutches

c6zhombre

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What's the mileage on the rxt? Time means nothing.

You also have posted many times that you like to have a tire setup that spins to prevent drivetrain breakage, that helps save the clutch.


Hey, take a chill pill. All I did was post what it has done, that dos mean something. The mileage is 7000 miles, the tires have been 305/35/18 R888s. It's held well enough to rip thru 5 sets in seven years. Thats pretty damn good in my book.
 

cj428mach

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No chill pill needed just wanted more information.

Nothing wrong with you choosing to save the drivetrain, but some guys want no spin, and thats going to be hard on the clutch.

My DYAD has 4500 miles, no track time but it does well. I do know my Mickey Thompsons DR's spun way less than my current R888's which has to be easier on my drivetrain.
 

c6zhombre

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Actually, my first two sets on this car were 0 rated 315/35/18 toyo TQ drag radials. So, not all R888s (3 sets, not 5). Been so long I had forgot. These would dead hook when new

DSC_2367.jpg
 

1wild-horse

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Pulled the stock clutch on mine at around 13k. It was far from wore out, but the retainer sleeve was broken so I thought might as well replace it with a stronger piece. Put in the Spec 2+, and has served me well for 25k. Never counted the passes but it lasted through four sets of drag radials, a few passes on Hoosier QTP's and outlasted one axle. Still, it does not slip, rather has bent forks on the p.p. or maybe a broken spring because last year it started hanging high rpm shifts. Upper only, E85 heavy vert.
Currently struggling with what to put in next. Spend the extra coin for the twin disc or stick with the cheap ones. I do like the reports of the lighter pedal effort.
 

Nadra

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My RXT is still holding just fine. Seven years old now. Honestly, it doesn't feel any different than it did when I bought the car. I've been impressed with it, drivability and the fact it's holding 700 wheel for so long now. Sorry to hear others have had issues.

^^^This. Anything less...operator or installation error, plain and simple. To say the RXT is an inferior clutch is complete nonsense.
 

Tifosi2003GT

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Is there a specific height you adjust the pivot bolt when doing Rxt.. Doing mine in couple months.. Any other tips?
 

gacobra

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^^^This. Anything less...operator or installation error, plain and simple. To say the RXT is an inferior clutch is complete nonsense.

I beg to differ. Premature Clutch/Flywheel failure doesn’t automatically necessitate operator or installer error, it could well be a manufacturer error. However, because one fails doesn’t mean the manufacturer builds inferior products. Everyone is human.

I had a RXT that came with the wrong alignment tool, was installed by a very knowledgeable installer (has done 100s of clutches), broke in the prescribed time, and then taken to a top notch tuner. The clutch/flywheel combo couldn’t hold more than half the rated torque. Because it was outside the warranty period I had no recourse other than to pay to have the clutch rebuilt/refreshened along with buying another new flywheel, $850. If folks have had good luck with RXTs by all means stick with what works. I on other hand had an extremely bad experience and I ended up going with another manufacturer. So far so good with the new clutch/flywheel combo.
 

IllCobra

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Pulled the stock clutch on mine at around 13k. It was far from wore out, but the retainer sleeve was broken so I thought might as well replace it with a stronger piece. Put in the Spec 2+, and has served me well for 25k. Never counted the passes but it lasted through four sets of drag radials, a few passes on Hoosier QTP's and outlasted one axle. Still, it does not slip, rather has bent forks on the p.p. or maybe a broken spring because last year it started hanging high rpm shifts. Upper only, E85 heavy vert.
Currently struggling with what to put in next. Spend the extra coin for the twin disc or stick with the cheap ones. I do like the reports of the lighter pedal effort.
That's good to hear since i just replaced my clutch with a spec 2+. I should be in the mid to low 500 hp range with my set up, and high 400's to low 500's in tq. I couldn't afford much on a clutch when i bought this one almost a year ago, if i would have just waited i could have gotten a twin disk now but i'll save that when i get ready to buy a new blower.
How does the clutch pedal feel? Is it close to stock feel wise since it is the 2+??
 

1wild-horse

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It's hard to remember what the stock pedal feel was like, its been a few years. I do remember thinking though that it was a little stiffer than stock but you will get used to it quick.
 

Nadra

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I had a RXT that came with the wrong alignment tool, was installed by a very knowledgeable installer (has done 100s of clutches)

For the sake of argument..do you not see the obvious irony here?? A 'very knowledgeable installler who has done 100s of cluthes' should have noticed something wrong ...before the installation even began. And certainly during installation had an incorrect alignment tool been supplied. Either way, yes, I agree what works for you...works for you.
 

P49Y-CY

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Is there a specific height you adjust the pivot bolt when doing Rxt.. Doing mine in couple months.. Any other tips?

i have been reading up on this quite a bit lately and from what i understand, each car can be different, and the flywheel being used can also have an effect, so there is no "magic number" that everyone can automatically use. several guys have reported initial success by reducing the length by about 4mm from stock for the rxt/rst.

there are several good threads that discuss this topic in-depth. but essentially what i gathered is that the key thing to strive for when first installing the clutch is to make sure there is a small amount of clearance between the pp fingers and tob when the fork is at rest. (that gap can then be fine tuned out by using the firewall adjuster.)

what you don't want, and i think that maybe i am guilty of this last time, is to have no clearance at all when first installing the clutch. in other words, you don't want to see the tob pushing in against the fingers (or even really touching them) when you first stab the transmission. then you know for sure that you will have to shorten the pivot ball.

because as the clutch wears, the fingers rise, and without any room to rise, the less clamping load it will have as it wears, and that in turn will cause the clutch to wear more and more rapidly.

ideally you want the fork to be parallel to the assy right at around the midway point of the range of motion. but since these are self-centering bearings that can move in relation to the fork, the correct end result will still be achieved even if that dimension is not exact.
 

MG0h3

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^^. Bingo. I don’t think my clutch is actually wearing out, but that there is too much pressure on the fingers. Surprised my TO bearing isn’t howling yet honestly.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

Nadra

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Yep. The McLeod RXT is a superior clutch. Installed correctly, not only will you enjoy the crazy power level it will hook up without slipping, you will also reap the reward of ridiculously light pedal pressure.
 

me32

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I beg to differ. Premature Clutch/Flywheel failure doesn’t automatically necessitate operator or installer error, it could well be a manufacturer error. However, because one fails doesn’t mean the manufacturer builds inferior products. Everyone is human.

I had a RXT that came with the wrong alignment tool, was installed by a very knowledgeable installer (has done 100s of clutches), broke in the prescribed time, and then taken to a top notch tuner. The clutch/flywheel combo couldn’t hold more than half the rated torque. Because it was outside the warranty period I had no recourse other than to pay to have the clutch rebuilt/refreshened along with buying another new flywheel, $850. If folks have had good luck with RXTs by all means stick with what works. I on other hand had an extremely bad experience and I ended up going with another manufacturer. So far so good with the new clutch/flywheel combo.
For a knowledgeable install they should of known the alignment tool was incorrect. There for part of the blame is on install error which cause the clutch to fail early.
 

me32

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i have been reading up on this quite a bit lately and from what i understand, each car can be different, and the flywheel being used can also have an effect, so there is no "magic number" that everyone can automatically use. several guys have reported initial success by reducing the length by about 4mm from stock for the rxt/rst.

there are several good threads that discuss this topic in-depth. but essentially what i gathered is that the key thing to strive for when first installing the clutch is to make sure there is a small amount of clearance between the pp fingers and tob when the fork is at rest. (that gap can then be fine tuned out by using the firewall adjuster.)

what you don't want, and i think that maybe i am guilty of this last time, is to have no clearance at all when first installing the clutch. in other words, you don't want to see the tob pushing in against the fingers (or even really touching them) when you first stab the transmission. then you know for sure that you will have to shorten the pivot ball.

because as the clutch wears, the fingers rise, and without any room to rise, the less clamping load it will have as it wears, and that in turn will cause the clutch to wear more and more rapidly.

ideally you want the fork to be parallel to the assy right at around the midway point of the range of motion. but since these are self-centering bearings that can move in relation to the fork, the correct end result will still be achieved even if that dimension is not exact.

This right here explains how a clutch has to be properly installed and adjusted so that it does not wear out prematurely. One down side to the RST/RXT is that on certain vehicles will need more adjustments than others.
 

c6zhombre

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This right here explains how a clutch has to be properly installed and adjusted so that it does not wear out prematurely. One down side to the RST/RXT is that on certain vehicles will need more adjustments than others.

Exactly. There's just not a cookie cutter answer on the install and some judgement must be used with the pivot ball and alignment. The McLeod instructions are poor and that's really the "downfall" of the product as a whole....not the clutch itself. When properly installed and adjusted, it will last.

But I have nothing against the DYAD....and the day my RXT goes for good, I'll definitely consider one. One thing I have noted is there is quite a price difference between the entry level RXT and the DYAD. The DYAD is several hundred more dollars.
 

me32

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Exactly. There's just not a cookie cutter answer on the install and some judgement must be used with the pivot ball and alignment. The McLeod instructions are poor and that's really the "downfall" of the product as a whole....not the clutch itself. When properly installed and adjusted, it will last.

But I have nothing against the DYAD....and the day my RXT goes for good, I'll definitely consider one. One thing I have noted is there is quite a price difference between the entry level RXT and the DYAD. The DYAD is several hundred more dollars.

I have heard on different clutches from mcleod that there install direction are very poor and most of the time people end up having to call there tech department for answers. They also dont do a very good job advising the added parts that will be/maybe need to install on a certain vehicle.
 

cj428mach

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One thing I have noted is there is quite a price difference between the entry level RXT and the DYAD. The DYAD is several hundred more dollars.

I hear that often but back when I was pricing one the difference in the ARP hardware, and brand new flywheel made them similar in price.

I remember reading Kevin's RXT install thread when I was considering clutches and if memory serves me he lucked out and was able to reuse the stock flywheel without any work. If a person needs a new flywheel and picks up new hardware its close to a coin toss, or it was several years ago when I installed mine.

I've ridden in one RXT car ported blower car and from the passenger seat it was very smooth. They certainly have that.
 

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