14 GT500 - What to do?

Rb0891

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Got my 14 GT500 a while back. Thing is completely stock. Starting to get the itch…

Should I leave this thing stock? It will most likely never be at a drag strip or road course. Maybe an auto cross but not often. It will never have drag radials on it. Stickiest tire would be an r888.

So is an intake an tune worth it? Probably wouldn’t go much further than that. Maybe an axle back down the line. Is the mgw shifter worth it? It was in my GT, but that was higher mileage and pretty worn. What about springs? Car does seem like it could be lowered a small amount for a better stance.

So, any thoughts? Not going too far with this one if I do anything at all.
 

Ray Lucca

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Ford Racing Springs will give a small drop and keep the ride. Tuner, Tune, Cai and Ford Racing or VMP Twin Throttle Body. JLT Passenger side Oil Separator. Hood Struts. Think I'm going to go with the Michelins for tires, lots of choices. Good Luck..
 

railroad

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I bought the 13-6 kit from Revan Racing. This kit does it as simple as can be and still gives an impressive step up in performance.
I would use the H pipe from Lethal, as the kit pipe is smaller diameter than stock?

I also changed out my suspension, again through a Revan kit.
I have a lift so everything was easy.
You will need an alignment after installation.
The factory Goodyears scared me so bad, I knew I had to have something better. Even with the Goodyear tires, the kit made an improvement where you could control the car during loss of traction.

If you get the itch for the heat exchanger with fans, I do not recommend it. My driving keeps me moving and I am not hot lapping on a drag strip. No improvement worth the cost and time.

See my parts in signature, any questions, happy to reply.
 

Rb0891

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Ford Racing Springs will give a small drop and keep the ride. Tuner, Tune, Cai and Ford Racing or VMP Twin Throttle Body. JLT Passenger side Oil Separator. Hood Struts. Think I'm going to go with the Michelins for tires, lots of choices. Good Luck..
Thanks for the input. Is the T-body really worth it?

I have pilot super sports now, but haven’t turned off the traction stuff yet. I had 305 r888s on my low boost gt and they were very solid. Of course they don’t last nearly as long.
 

raustin0017

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I went with simple parts to increase RWHP, suspension work to hold the power, and Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 to be able to drive all year round.
Throttle body, upper pully, plugs, CAI, Lund Tune will pick up close to 75 RWHP and if you install Long Tubes to help it breath better will pick up another 25 or so.

My stock 14 put down 609/595 RWHP / TQ...now it is 710/685 and is a blast to drive.
Do the suspension work first, good rubber, then the power upgrades.
 

Norton

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These are cars a blast to drive, whether stock or modified. Choose your tires IAW your driving environment and habits - you won't go wrong with Michelins or Toyos.

My '13's baseline dyno was great...
Dyno Baseline.jpg


She responded really well to bolt-ons and a good tune. Throttle body is definitely worthwhile. I went with a CFM Twin Jet 67mm, along with JLT 127mm CF CAI, VMP 2.4" Upper Pulley, 90mm Idler, BPS Oversized & Ported Plenum/Elbow, NGK TR7-IX plugs, VMP Triple-Pass Dual-Fan H/E, Reische 170' Tstat, and a custom dyno tune from Elite Performance and Tuning in Littleton, CO. The results speak for themselves...
Dyno (vs RPM) STAGE 4 Power Pack.jpeg


Was it necessary? Nope. Is it even more fun to drive? Definitely!
 

sonicx

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If it’s low mileage, clean title, and stock… I’d keep it stock. It’ll be worth way more sooner than later as EV is gearing up. If you must, to easily reversible mods and keep the stock parts.
 

CobraBob

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The question is, how big an itch are you feeling? Is the itch mainly for a bit more performance? Also, how long have you owned it?

If the simple answer is that you're looking for just a bit more performance just to bring back a bit of the adrenalin rush that's waned over time, then by all means go with some simple mods like an intake, exhaust (unless you really like what you have), shifter (yes, the MGW makes a difference), lowering springs, and a tune. As already mentioned, save any factory pieces you replace. These are "basic" mods that are easy to reverse, fairly inexpensive, and will revive that adrenalin just enough to make your GT-500 more enjoyable to drive. JMO.
 

1Kona_Venom

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MGW= yes
R888= yes ( I do not daily, these replaced Super Sports on the rear)
Gears= yes 3:73

Do as many engine mods as you can at once to avoid rewrites for the tune

See my signature, for more detailed information and regulatory endorsements

What are the particulars on your car? Color and what options?
 

Rb0891

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MGW= yes
R888= yes ( I do not daily, these replaced Super Sports on the rear)
Gears= yes 3:73

Do as many engine mods as you can at once to avoid rewrites for the tune

See my signature, for more detailed information and regulatory endorsements

What are the particulars on your car? Color and what options?
It’s a ruby red no stripes, 1 owner (now 2). 23k miles and all options except the glass roof and track pack.

I just did all this stuff to my GT and honestly like doing the mods as much as driving it.

Thinking I may just keep an eye out for cheaper take off stuff and do some slowly as I get groups together.
 

Norton

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If you must, to easily reversible mods and keep the stock parts.
I'm not saving mine for the next owner, as I plan to enjoy my toys until I'm physically unable to do so. I followed this advice, however, sticking with relatively simple bolt-ons and keeping all the stock parts.

Thinking I may just keep an eye out for cheaper take off stuff and do some slowly as I get groups together.
This is also what I did, picking-up most of my parts in new or like new condition for a fraction of MSRP.
 

WicK

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I'm not saving mine for the next owner, as I plan to enjoy my toys until I'm physically unable to do so. I followed this advice, however, sticking with relatively simple bolt-ons and keeping all the stock parts.


This is also what I did, picking-up most of my parts in new or like new condition for a fraction of MSRP.
i agree with this as well. I still have all my stock parts in case i want to go back to stock. Big fan of bolt on stuff and it's enough to run a 10.7 @ 132 with my set up.
 

1 Alibi 2

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Hard to say what YOU should do with YOUR car.
I had a plan for my 14 " years " before I even ordered it, based on my 11 build.
It started with this @ less than 700 miles on it !!
.

.
 

sonicx

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I'm not saving mine for the next owner, as I plan to enjoy my toys until I'm physically unable to do so. I followed this advice, however, sticking with relatively simple bolt-ons and keeping all the stock parts.
For sure. Life is too short not to enjoy what you got to the fullest. It’s just my own Opinion that long-term these special cars in stock un-touched form are far going to exceed their counter parts of one’s modified. :) But like i said if it’s easily reversible mods why not?

But I’ve owned cars and kept them stock as well as own collectors cars and made them far from it.
 

darksykal

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if you don't plan on getting real tires, there's no point in getting mods.
I tried to stick with "good" tires with some basic bolt ons and it was like trying to drive the car on ice.

Mickey Thompson ET Street R's @ 305/45/18 now and she finally sticks.

it's like a different car.
 

1Kona_Venom

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It’s a ruby red no stripes, 1 owner (now 2). 23k miles and all options except the glass roof and track pack.

I just did all this stuff to my GT and honestly like doing the mods as much as driving it.

Thinking I may just keep an eye out for cheaper take off stuff and do some slowly as I get groups together.

Mod it. I enjoy that part of the hobby too
With shipping now a days, its very very hard to "save" any money vs new and I just generally do not trust people like I use to.
 

Norton

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With shipping now a days, its very very hard to "save" any money vs new and I just generally do not trust people like I use to.
I agree BUT, some parts are difficult (if not impossible) to find new. Stuff that appears to have gone out of production includes JLT 127mm CF CAI, Dry Blue Filter for JLT CAI, JLT Painted Radiator Cover, Billet Coolant Reservoirs, 170' Reische Tstat, FRPP Strut Tower Brace, SOS Gauge Pod, nGauge, nGauge Vent Mount, Tru-Forged Heat Extractor, and Original SVT Wheels.
 

1Kona_Venom

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I agree BUT, some parts are difficult (if not impossible) to find new. Stuff that appears to have gone out of production includes JLT 127mm CF CAI, Dry Blue Filter for JLT CAI, JLT Painted Radiator Cover, Billet Coolant Reservoirs, 170' Reische Tstat, FRPP Strut Tower Brace, SOS Gauge Pod, nGauge, nGauge Vent Mount, Tru-Forged Heat Extractor, and Original SVT Wheels.
I suppose thats true

But don't think, your gonna scavenge those parts for original msrp

Sent from my SM-G975U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 
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WicK

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if you don't plan on getting real tires, there's no point in getting mods.
I tried to stick with "good" tires with some basic bolt ons and it was like trying to drive the car on ice.

Mickey Thompson ET Street R's @ 305/45/18 now and she finally sticks.

it's like a different car.
i have these rims and tires too lol and it surely does stick with em! but a bouncy ride, specially in the top of 3rd gear.
 

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