I'm over 2,000 miles on my '13 now and am wanting to do a full fluid swap. I know this has been gone over and discussed in a few other threads, and most of the time its mixed answers. I want to know what most are swapping to, and results, miles, etc. after the swap. Engine oil, transmission/rear end etc. I appreciate any and all help. :beer:
13' GT Fluid Swap
- Thread starter CW1343
- Start date
Im ordering some brake, gear, tranny Amsoil fluids this week. I didn't have the link so I copied this and saved it.
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UnleashedBeast
Engine Lubrication Guru
This recommendation list will cover all seasons for your car, from the harshest winter days, to the hottest summer days. The best part is, the oil only has to be changed once a year, or 15,000 miles, whichever occur first. Amsoil RD30 excluded.
8 quart fill (Coyote GT)
8.5 quart fill (Track Pack GT & Boss 302)
Amsoil ALM 5W-20 – If your car is 100% stock, never raced, driven like a grandma, no matter the climate….use this.
Amsoil AZO 0W-30 - If your car is driven year round up north in very cold temperatures and is lightly modded....use this.
Amsoil ATM 10W-30 - If your car is moderate to heavily modded, used in hotter climate states, or never driven during winter months in northern states...use this.
Amsoil AMO 10W-40 - If you have a Boss 302 or Track Pack GT, and you road race your car....use this.
*Boss 302 and Track Pack GT owners - If you do not road race your car, use Amsoil ATM 10W-30. 5W-50 spec for this engine is overkill and results in excessive oil pressure.*
Amsoil RD30 10W-30 - If your car is modded to the max and producing HP beyond 600 rwhp, especially E85 fuel engines...use this. This lubricant must be changed every 6 months or 5,000 miles, whichever occur first.
Amsoil EaO17 - This oil filter outperforms any filter on the market.
If you have the Getrag MT-82 6 speed manual
Amsoil Synchromesh - requires 3 quarts. Use this if you road race your car, or you are experiencing grinding.
If you have the 6R80 automatic 6 speed, this stuff will make it survive the worst torture.
Amsoil LV Synthetic ATF - 12 quart total fill
and for the rear differential
Amsoil 75W-140 - requires 2 quarts
Don't forget the friction modifier
Amsoil Slip Lock - use all four ounces
*Boss 302 and Track Pack GT owners. If you have the Torsen differential in your car, do not use friction modifier.*
Bottle Hand Pump - makes pumping new fluid into the transmission and rear differential very easy.
UOA testing kit - we have dedicated UOA threads to compare everyone's reports.
UOA thread
Last thing, do NOT pay retail for Amsoil...EVER! This is my secret to you on how to by all Amsoil products at dealer cost (saves 25% off retail).
Preferred Customer
If you ever have any questions, I'm always here to answer them. Just send me a PM.
Troy
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UnleashedBeast
Engine Lubrication Guru
This recommendation list will cover all seasons for your car, from the harshest winter days, to the hottest summer days. The best part is, the oil only has to be changed once a year, or 15,000 miles, whichever occur first. Amsoil RD30 excluded.
8 quart fill (Coyote GT)
8.5 quart fill (Track Pack GT & Boss 302)
Amsoil ALM 5W-20 – If your car is 100% stock, never raced, driven like a grandma, no matter the climate….use this.
Amsoil AZO 0W-30 - If your car is driven year round up north in very cold temperatures and is lightly modded....use this.
Amsoil ATM 10W-30 - If your car is moderate to heavily modded, used in hotter climate states, or never driven during winter months in northern states...use this.
Amsoil AMO 10W-40 - If you have a Boss 302 or Track Pack GT, and you road race your car....use this.
*Boss 302 and Track Pack GT owners - If you do not road race your car, use Amsoil ATM 10W-30. 5W-50 spec for this engine is overkill and results in excessive oil pressure.*
Amsoil RD30 10W-30 - If your car is modded to the max and producing HP beyond 600 rwhp, especially E85 fuel engines...use this. This lubricant must be changed every 6 months or 5,000 miles, whichever occur first.
Amsoil EaO17 - This oil filter outperforms any filter on the market.
If you have the Getrag MT-82 6 speed manual
Amsoil Synchromesh - requires 3 quarts. Use this if you road race your car, or you are experiencing grinding.
If you have the 6R80 automatic 6 speed, this stuff will make it survive the worst torture.
Amsoil LV Synthetic ATF - 12 quart total fill
and for the rear differential
Amsoil 75W-140 - requires 2 quarts
Don't forget the friction modifier
Amsoil Slip Lock - use all four ounces
*Boss 302 and Track Pack GT owners. If you have the Torsen differential in your car, do not use friction modifier.*
Bottle Hand Pump - makes pumping new fluid into the transmission and rear differential very easy.
UOA testing kit - we have dedicated UOA threads to compare everyone's reports.
UOA thread
Last thing, do NOT pay retail for Amsoil...EVER! This is my secret to you on how to by all Amsoil products at dealer cost (saves 25% off retail).
Preferred Customer
If you ever have any questions, I'm always here to answer them. Just send me a PM.
Troy
awesome info!
That about sums it up. I sent a copy of this to him in a PM with direct links to make ordering easier, especially how to buy at cost. Do not pay retail mark up for this lubricant.
would you pm me the same info?
Me as we'll please
Great info!
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Hey man, can you pm me as we'll? Would really appreciate it!
Yes, but if you don't have a drain plug you will need to siphon the fluid out of the fill plug and replace the exact amount removed. There are fluid mover kits around that can do both. Don't have the links handy. sorry.
I guess I should rephrase my ?... do our rear diffs come from the factory with drain plug?
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i made the switch to Amsoil SS 5w30 and also did the transmission fluid...ive actually been a bit taken back at how awesome these fluids are.
I had redline in the tranny and motor and i thought it really coudnt get any better. Better than stock for sure. But when i swapped the redline out for Amsoil in the tranny, my shifting became EFFORTLESS. I thought i was going to need an MGW or barton bracket, nope this solved MY issue.
And as far as the motor oil, it just puurrsss...i cant believe im an amsoil believer now.
Only other oil i can compare it too is Motul 300V, same amazing-ness
I had redline in the tranny and motor and i thought it really coudnt get any better. Better than stock for sure. But when i swapped the redline out for Amsoil in the tranny, my shifting became EFFORTLESS. I thought i was going to need an MGW or barton bracket, nope this solved MY issue.
And as far as the motor oil, it just puurrsss...i cant believe im an amsoil believer now.
Only other oil i can compare it too is Motul 300V, same amazing-ness
Negative.
I'm about to do my engine oil, and trans fluid. I hope I have the same results as you in reference to the shifting.
That would be such a pain in the ass. I replaced mine with a Boss 302 cover with drain and fill plugs
. Honestly resealing the rear diff isn't that big a deal. Just time consuming since you have to let the rtv gasket sit for about an hour before completely bolting it down.
Either way I did it in about 2 hours total actual time at the car. Pulling the stock fluids, completely draining, cleaning the diff of rtv, applying new rtv to the new diff cover, bolting it down by hand, letting it sit an hour and bolting it down the rest of the way then filling it. With a hand pump from O'reilly I had the diff filled in like 5 mins.
Switched from Royal Puple 75W140 to Redline 75W140 Shockproof Leightweight and the redline stuff is 10X better. I hear amsoil is great too. After having both royal purple and redline I wouldn't recommend royal purple.
That would be such a pain in the ass. I replaced mine with a Boss 302 cover with drain and fill plugs
Honestly resealing the rear diff isn't that big a deal. Just time consuming since you have to let the rtv gasket sit for about an hour before completely bolting it down.
Either way I did it in about 2 hours total actual time at the car. Pulling the stock fluids, completely draining, cleaning the diff of rtv, applying new rtv to the new diff cover, bolting it down by hand, letting it sit an hour and bolting it down the rest of the way then filling it. With a hand pump from O'reilly I had the diff filled in like 5 mins.
Switched from Royal Puple 75W140 to Redline 75W140 Shockproof Leightweight and the redline stuff is 10X better. I hear amsoil is great too. After having both royal purple and redline I wouldn't recommend royal purple.
For daily driving to work and no racing...is it worth the hassle and money to do this? Everything is relatively easy but if you get no gain from it then is it really worth it?
What makes you say redline is better than royal purple?
pm me too please
which part are you asking about? Switching the cover? I did it to help with heat. My car is a DD mostly and the diff gets hella hot. The finned cover is great and I got it from a guy I buy my parts from because he sells them hella cheap. He isn't a vendor on here so I won't mention him. I know beefcake says he is the cheapest but I would bet they are on par with pricing and I know the other guy. Beefcake lives on the other side of town from me though. lol.
The aftermarkter rear diff covers, the better ones, also make the axle more rigid. Which is nice. The finned ones help with heat. Also the steeda finned cover has fill and drain plugs in the front.
Clutch engagment was always kinda rough and bouncy after having my gears replaced and the diff filled with royal purple from the factory fill. I maybe put 15K miles on the car with royal purple and it never got better. Was royal purple and a bottle of ford racing friction modifier. I just started to assume it was the gears. I then about a month ago switched the cover and the fill fluid since the bad shifting was getting worse feeling. Felt like the car would start to engage and then bang and then engage again. I replaced the diff cover and added redline per the guy I buy froms recommendation as it is what he runs in his Boss 302. The driveline bounce went away and all shifts are smooth.
So it was either the axle housing was flexing and the boss diff cover stopped the flex(doubt it) or the fluid change. I did 3 bottles of redline fluid and one bottle of Ford xl-3 friction modifier. Even with the two piece drive shift the drive line is extremely smooth now.
amsoil might be just as good, I just got the redline stuff for cost which was hella cheaper than I could get amsoil even with the discounting that everyone wants to be PMd about so I took advantage of it. I was going to put amsol in my trans, but leaning towards redline now after the diff improvement since I know they are good.
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