10+ year maintenance recommendations

[jpk]

Hi Guys,

My 2004 Cobra has been running just great since I bought it new in '04. I've been regularly changing the fluids on an annual or three year schedule based on the fluid, and that's about it. Well, I changed the OEM battery finally last year, but even that was still working. I've only got 26K on the odometer, but it's starting to feel like I ought to have replaced something besides fluids after this much time.

Do you guys recommend changing anything after this much time? Some candidates are maybe:
- Spark plugs
- Belts
- Supercharger oil
- Coolant hoses

Not sure if all or any of these are necessary. Thanks!

 

[Dominican_7]

Subn, I am in the same boat. 2004 27,200k on her.

 

[2003cobra22]

The spark plugs and supercharger oil, there both an easy swap..also the fuel filter under the IRS and depending on your air filter clean it or get a replacement. All of these are cheap, easy, and give peace of mind

 

[Rambro]

Full brake fluid flush. I need to do this ASAP.

 

[cj428mach]

I'd do the inner belt. I need to do the one on my car as I'm sure its original with only 9200 miles on it but 12 years of age on it.

I'd like to get it done now as getting the lower pulley off will only get harder as the car ages.

 

[jpk]

I've done the brake fluid recently and I have the fuel filter done at three or so year intervals. So I'm good there.

Sounds like blower oil, plugs, and belts at the next service. Anything else?

 

[02JoeGhost]

What fluids do you change yearly?

 

[Givens]

Interesting topic, my car has all the original hoses and belts, well the SC belt has been changed, but you guys with these low mileage cars I'm assuming have been inside. My car just rolled over 30k I was a little sad I have to admit but I recently pulled the motor to install cams and headers.

I was pretty amazed how good all the hoses looked, I bought the A/C belt cause I was there but it didn't need to be changed. I also bought a new alternator cause I was there and it would be easy to replace after all it is 11 years old. I guess you can say that about anything its 11 or 12 years old. If your car has been stored inside your probably still good. I say if it makes you feel better do it, belts, hoses, plugs, SC oil, Flush coolant system, trans fluid, brake fluid, diff fluid, brake lines, take it as far as you like.

 

[jpk]

I do an annual oil and filter change with synthetic. Since I only do 1,000 miles a year. The rest I do every three years (fuel filter, coolant, differential oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid). I've never done the supercharger oil, because it wasn't in the manual.

 

[Noreast]

I was recently thinking about this also. Someone told me not to bother doing the blower oil since its only a 12k mile car but then others say to change it because of the age lol Im subbing to see comments.

 

[MBoyle1]

Inner belt for sure! I install plugs every year also,don't want to shoot one out! Diff fluid should be on the list also.

 

[BlksvtCobra01]

Anyone know of a youtube link or a video on how to drop the IRS pumpkin only? Mine is leaking

 

[luke1333]

Anyone know of a youtube link or a video on how to drop the IRS pumpkin only? Mine is leaking

good luck Patrick lol

 

[03' White Snake]

I'm replacing my inner belt, inner idlers, and both tensioner pullies this winter. Just to be on the safe side.

 

[oldmodman]

After 10 years it's time to replace all the rubber.

Hoses. Especially since they deteriorate from the inside out.

Belts. They are cheap and will leave you stranded if they fail.

Bushings at the top and bottom of the shocks. It might even be worth sending them to Bilstein for a rebuild. Especially if you have been satisfied with their ride all these years.

And of course the rubber in the IRS. If you haven't done so look into getting Bruce's full IRS kit from Full Tilt Boogie Racing.

Goes without saying that all the fluids in the car should be changed. As has already been said flush the brake system. Drain and replace the rear differential oil and also the power steering fluid. For the power steering I would recommend getting the Amsoil ATF. It makes almost all power steering systems smoother.

With your relatively low mileage it shouldn't be necessary to replace the front wheel bearing assemblies or the rear wheel bearings either. Do check the torque on the rear wheel axle nuts. If it is loose then replace the nuts rather than reusing them since you don't know how long they were lose and if they took any pounding from the wheel hub pushing back and forth.

 

[Tractionless1]

Full brake fluid flush. I need to do this ASAP.

Should be done every 2 yrs. regardless of mileage as it absorbs water. Strips are available to test.

Interesting topic, my car has all the original hoses and belts, well the SC belt has been changed, but you guys with these low mileage cars I'm assuming have been inside. My car just rolled over 30k I was a little sad I have to admit but I recently pulled the motor to install cams and headers.

I was pretty amazed how good all the hoses looked, I bought the A/C belt cause I was there but it didn't need to be changed. I also bought a new alternator cause I was there and it would be easy to replace after all it is 11 years old. I guess you can say that about anything its 11 or 12 years old. If your car has been stored inside your probably still good. I say if it makes you feel better do it, belts, hoses, plugs, SC oil, Flush coolant system, trans fluid, brake fluid, diff fluid, brake lines, take it as far as you like.

Hoses deterioate from the inside out. OE is no longer available here's my offering http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...W-Silicone-Cooling-Hoses-Full-Set-Many-Colors

I'm replacing my inner belt, inner idlers, and both tensioner pullies this winter. Just to be on the safe side.

Keep in mind you can replace just the bearings in those pullies. I'd replace the entire tensioner assy. before they're not available.

 

[Huachipato]

Owners manual says the belt should last 100K miles before even being inspected. Replacement is mentioned at 150K if it has not been replaced within the last 100K.

I guess peace of mind is one thing. If the visual inspection doesn't reveal any cracks or missing chunks - and the belt doesn't squeal - wouldn't you think it is safe to say the belt is in good condition and doesn't need replacing?

 

[BlksvtCobra01]

After 10 years it's time to replace all the rubber.

Hoses. Especially since they deteriorate from the inside out.

Belts. They are cheap and will leave you stranded if they fail.

Bushings at the top and bottom of the shocks. It might even be worth sending them to Bilstein for a rebuild. Especially if you have been satisfied with their ride all these years.

And of course the rubber in the IRS. If you haven't done so look into getting Bruce's full IRS kit from Full Tilt Boogie Racing.

Goes without saying that all the fluids in the car should be changed. As has already been said flush the brake system. Drain and replace the rear differential oil and also the power steering fluid. For the power steering I would recommend getting the Amsoil ATF. It makes almost all power steering systems smoother.

With your relatively low mileage it shouldn't be necessary to replace the front wheel bearing assemblies or the rear wheel bearings either. Do check the torque on the rear wheel axle nuts. If it is loose then replace the nuts rather than reusing them since you don't know how long they were lose and if they took any pounding from the wheel hub pushing back and forth.

What is the easiest way to change the P/S fluid?

 

[weaselp1]

What is the easiest way to change the P/S fluid?

The tukey baster method is what I do. Suck it out, put new stuff in. Get in car, turn it on and turn the wheel left to right 6 or so times. Get out and repeat. I normally do this until the old stuff is out and the fluid you are sucking out looks new. When I got my cobra it had 43k miles and it took almost a gallon using this method. I now use a quart every spring when I am getting my car ready for springtime just to keep some fresh stuff in there.

You can always disconnect the lines, but that is more of a pain than using the method I describe IMHO.

 

[BlksvtCobra01]

The tukey baster method is what I do. Suck it out, put new stuff in. Get in car, turn it on and turn the wheel left to right 6 or so times. Get out and repeat. I normally do this until the old stuff is out and the fluid you are sucking out looks new. When I got my cobra it had 43k miles and it took almost a gallon using this method. I now use a quart every spring when I am getting my car ready for springtime just to keep some fresh stuff in there.

You can always disconnect the lines, but that is more of a pain than using the method I describe IMHO.

Sounds good guess order a gallon of Amsoil atf?