just purchased my first ford...03 cobra...I drove the thing 250 miles home no prob, got it home....no heat, heater hoses not getting hot, so per this forum put car on ramps replaced thermostat, refill coolant through plg in intake, ran and bleed, ran and,bleed several times heater began to work, car seemed ok..now i drive a while, 10 miles or so heater quits and car runs hot. take it home on ramps again open bleeder plug got some air, but this cycle keeps happening car still running hot and heat goes away...getting a case of the a$$ already...also the thing "clunks" in the rear. there seems to be exsesive lash in the drive train could this be half shafts? the pinion support bushings dont look that great either please help!!:cuss:
03 cobra over heating, no heat
- Thread starter icyrolly
- Start date
01cobravortech
Banned
i have tried this exact proceedure no luck..i guess i will try again tomorow, getting butt kicked by a cooling system...i have built several sbc's and back halfed a regal, this cobra is a new ball game, my inter cooler pump is not circulating either relay working and has 12v at pump plug how do you burp this system?
01cobravortech
Banned
:beer:
01cobravortech
Banned
I wrap a towel around the lip of the ic reservoir and while the car is on I just keep blowing hard into the tank until it starts circulating. I know other guys just jumper it.
To prime it another way look at this thread.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-way-bleed-air-out-aftercooler-reservoir.html
The main hose going into the heater core. Passenger side typically gets cut my the outside heater core bolt that goes through the firewall. Just took the heater core out to find out the heater core was okay. Look around and while loosening the box. Took nut off outside firewall bolt and realized the bolt had cut through the hose. Check the main hose running into the heater core. See if its cut. Be hard to tell there is a sleave. Just cut the sleeve and check the hose.
THats IT:fm: i folowed the burping proceedure to the T still runs hot heat goes away slowly and temp creeps up. if i stop and let cool for 5 min, i can drive 5 more miles til temp creeps up again. took hoses off heater core and flushed it(flows great) new cap new o ring cross over tube. fan comes on both speeds, starting to think water pump? idk
Well since we know the heater core is good it sounds like the water pump.
When the car cools off now is the car full of coolant at the crossover plug? If not how much coolant do you have to add to top it off?
If just a little that is more or less normal, if a lot you may have a leak externally as steam when it is hot or internally from a head gasket or crack in the block. Most of the time when you have a blown head gasket you'll end up with milkshake looking oil but sometimes the leak is slow enough that it boils off.
Hopefully the block is staying full and you just have a bad water pump.
When the car cools off now is the car full of coolant at the crossover plug? If not how much coolant do you have to add to top it off?
If just a little that is more or less normal, if a lot you may have a leak externally as steam when it is hot or internally from a head gasket or crack in the block. Most of the time when you have a blown head gasket you'll end up with milkshake looking oil but sometimes the leak is slow enough that it boils off.
Hopefully the block is staying full and you just have a bad water pump.
Hey , not trying to be a wise a$$ but is your thermostat working and in facing the right way ? Something tells me that it can be installed in the housing backwards , been a while since I have had mine apart.
VERY good question. Lots of times its the simplest things.
when i have issues with ic pump flow,,ive tried the blowing into tank,,but have found to drain coolant at pump and fill slower...
on the engine to burp i havent done the funnel thing...but i start being as empty as you can...have 4gals of fluid...i pull burp plug and fill at degas bottle till it comes out burp plug or cant fit any more in degas tank...i put cap on degas tank and fill the burp plug hole untill it cant take any more,,,i start car and let idle till fan kicks on...i turn car off,,i slowlt crack burp plug and allow air to escape,,when air stops,,remove plug and degas tank top and repeat..it takes 3 cycles to get done...i will check and fill at degas tank when completly cool...
my system has always had pressure release sound when cold,,if i didnt hear sound it meant leak...
ive also had issues with electric fan,,,,
1- ring broke around fan blades,,,it could work in front of you but stop after some bumps..
i also had a connector not fully seated after work on car,,,caused car to overheat..fan would cycle 4 times than on 5th nothing...
on the engine to burp i havent done the funnel thing...but i start being as empty as you can...have 4gals of fluid...i pull burp plug and fill at degas bottle till it comes out burp plug or cant fit any more in degas tank...i put cap on degas tank and fill the burp plug hole untill it cant take any more,,,i start car and let idle till fan kicks on...i turn car off,,i slowlt crack burp plug and allow air to escape,,when air stops,,remove plug and degas tank top and repeat..it takes 3 cycles to get done...i will check and fill at degas tank when completly cool...
my system has always had pressure release sound when cold,,if i didnt hear sound it meant leak...
ive also had issues with electric fan,,,,
1- ring broke around fan blades,,,it could work in front of you but stop after some bumps..
i also had a connector not fully seated after work on car,,,caused car to overheat..fan would cycle 4 times than on 5th nothing...
I sure hope you don't mean remove the crossover plug and reservoir cap at the same time. That's a no no after the initial system fill. If you do this coolant from the crossover tube will flow back toward the reservoir, which is higher, allowing air back into the tube.
icyrolly: How long does it take for the car to start losing heat? Does the engine start running hot immediately following warm up? Thermostat is a possibility. Does the system overheat and puke coolant at any time?
Water pump is unlikely. Don't think we've ever had anyone solve an overheat problem here with a water pump. They typically fail at the bearing/seal and leak.
i hope he didnt read it that way..
last line says check and fill at degas tank when completely cool..
Well boys I'm pretty much screwed. Its a head gasket. Observed a small amount of oil in coolant. A block test also indicated oil in the coolant. Also the last day I got in to drive it, the starter barely could spin the motor over. After a few turns it fired up and puffed white for only a second and went away. Now I have to pray for no cracked head or pulled threads. :shrug:
01cobravortech
Banned
Very disappointing news my friend, I feel for you. Could you provide some info on your setup and how much boost? I'm sure you're aware that hg failures aren't the most common thing to go bad on these longblocks.
Sorry to hear that but I had an inkling that might be it - I've seen those symptoms exactly turn out to be a head gasket (that's why I mentioned it in my earlier reply.) I'd hoped it was something simple but guessed it wasn't.
Hopefully the damage is limited to the gasket - you can repair that and be back running quickly. It's a good time to upgrade head gaskets (think about locwire) and definitely use upgraded fastners (like ARP studs or bolts).
Good luck!
Do not post help threads in the HOW-TO forum!:bash::nonono::kaboom::burn:
And read all the stickies at the top of each forum page one!
Users who are viewing this thread
